bāng hǎi lǎo shù shēng chá

Banhai laoshu shengcha ndi tiyi yaiwisi (sheng) pu-erh, yopangidwa kuchokera ku masamba a mitengo yakale ya tiyi ya m’dera la Banhai m’chigawo cha Yunnan kumwera chakumadzulo kwa China. Uwu ndi tiyi wofinyidwa wochokera ku mtundu wa masamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan, wodutsa m’ndondomeko yoletsa kubiriwira ndi kuyanika padzuwa, koma osadutsa m’kufefetsa kwafulumizitsa kochita kupanga. Tiyi wotere amamuyamikira chifukwa cha madzi ake okhuthala ndi odzaza, okhala ndi kuwawa koonekera koma kosandulika mwachangu, kukoma kwapambuyo kwautali, ndi khalidwe la “mapiri” lomwe limadziwika ndi zopangira zochokera ku mitengo yakale. M’dongosolo lonse la ulemu wa ma pu-erh, amakhala pakati pa tiyi wamba wa m’minda ndi tiyi wapamwamba wochokera ku mitengo yakalekale. Monga ma sheng pu-erh ena, Banhai ndi wosangalatsa osati kokha akadali wachinyamata komanso chifukwa cha kuthekera kwake kukhwima pang’onopang’ono akasungidwa, kusintha kukoma kwake kwa zaka zambiri.

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

Mtundu: pu-erh waiwisi (生茶, shēngchá)
Gulu: pu-erh (普洱茶, pǔ’ěrchá), gulu la tiyi wopita pambuyo pa kufefetsa
Mtundu wa chomera: wa masamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan (云南大叶种, Yúnnán dàyèzhǒng), Camellia sinensis var. assamica
Mlingo wa zopangira: “mitengo yakale” (老树, lǎoshù)
Chiyambi: dera la Banhai (邦海, Bānghǎi), chigawo cha Yunnan (云南, Yúnnán)
Maonekedwe: nthawi zambiri ndi mkate wofinyidwa (饼茶, bǐngchá), kaŵirikaŵiri wa kulemera kwa muyezo wa 357 g

Dzina la tiyi limapangidwa ndi zigawo zitatu: dzina la malo Banhai (邦海), chisonyezero cha mtundu wa zopangira “mitengo yakale” (老树), ndi mtundu wa tiyi “shengcha” (生茶). Chigawo cha 邦 (bāng) m’mayina a malo a ku Yunnan nthawi zambiri chimakhala m’mayina a midzi ya tiyi ya m’mapiri; mayina otere amapezeka ku Xishuangbanna (西双版纳, Xīshuāngbǎnnà) komanso ku Lincang (临沧, Líncāng). M’chizolowezi cha malonda, tiyi wa Banhai nthawi zambiri amayikidwa m’gulu la zopangira za dera la Menghai (勐海, Měnghǎi) ku Xishuangbanna — malo akale a mbiri ya kupanga pu-erh, — komabe kutsimikizika kwenikweni kwa kayendetsedwe ka dera pamlingo wa mudzi m’magwero a malonda sikumakhazikitsidwa nthawi zonse.

Pu-erh monga chinthu chokhala ndi dzina la malo amayendetsedwa ku China ndi mulingo wa boma GB/T 22111-2008, umene umayika ku pu-erh tiyi wochokera ku zopangira za masamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan yekha, wopangidwa m’madera osankhidwa a chigawochi.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Kwawo kwa chikhalidwe: Yunnan amaonedwa kuti ndi amodzi mwa malo oyambira chomera cha tiyi, ndipo madera a m’mapiri a kumwera kwa chigawochi ndiwo kwawo kwa tiyi wa masamba akuluakulu.
Mwambo wa kufinya: chizolowezi chofinya tiyi kukhala mikate ndi “njerwa” mwambiri chimagwirizana ndi kusavuta kwa kayendedwe pa njira za m’mapiri.

Tiyi wofinyidwa wochokera ku Yunnan kwa zaka mazana ambiri ankayenda pa njira yotchedwa Chai-Horse Road (茶马古道, chámǎ gǔdào) — maukonde a njira zamalonda zomwe zimagwirizanitsa madera opangira tiyi ndi Tibet, China wamkati, ndi mayiko oyandikana nawo. Ndiko kayendedwe kautali ndi kukhwima kwachilengedwe komwe kunapanga lingaliro lakuti pu-erh amakula bwino pakapita nthawi.

Lingaliro la “tiyi wochokera ku mitengo yakale” linapeza kufunika kwa msika makamaka kuyambira zaka za m’ma 2000, pamene chidwi chinakula pa zopangira zochokera ku mitengo yaitali kwambiri mosiyana ndi minda yowirira. Mayina a m’deralo monga Banhai anaonekera ndi kulimbikitsidwa ndendende m’nthawi imeneyi monga njira yosonyezera chiyambi chenicheni cha zinthu, ngakhale ambiri mwa iwo amakhalabe osadziwika kwenikweni kunja kwa msika wapadera.

3. Kufotokozera Kwachomera ndi Zopangira:

Mtundu: Camellia sinensis var. assamica, mtundu wa masamba akuluakulu a chomera cha tiyi
Mkhalidwe wa kukula: mtengo kapena theka-mtengo (乔木, qiáomù / 小乔木, xiǎoqiáomù), mosiyana ndi tchire lodulidwa la m’minda
Tsamba: lalikulu, lachikopa, lokhala ndi mitsempha yowonekera ndi m’mphepete mwa mano
Mulingo wa kuthyola: nthawi zambiri mphukira yokhala ndi masamba aŵiri kapena atatu (一芽二叶, yīyá èryè / 一芽三叶, yīyá sānyè)

Mawu oti “mitengo yakale” (老树, lǎoshù) m’chizolowezi cha ku Yunnan amatanthauza mitengo ya zaka zoonekera ndi msinkhu, yomwe imakula momasuka kuposa tchire la m’minda, koma osayikidwa ndi ogulitsa m’gulu la “yakalekale” (古树, gǔshù). Malire a malingaliro amenewa sakhazikitsidwa ndi mulingo wokhwima ndipo kwakukulukulu amatsimikiziridwa ndi mwambo wa dera lenileni ndi kukhulupirika kwa wopanga. Zopangira zochokera ku mitengo yakale zimayamikiridwa chifukwa cha dongosolo la mizu lotukuka kwambiri, kudzazidwa kokwanira kwa madzi ake ndi kukhazikika kwa kuthirira kambirimbiri.

4. Malo ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

Mawonekedwe a nthaka ndi msinkhu: malo otsetsereka a m’mapiri a Yunnan, mlingo wa utali wokhala m’chikhalidwe cha dera la Menghai pafupifupi 1000–1800 m pamwamba pa nyanja
Nthaka: za laterite zofiira-zachikasu, zotulutsa madzi bwino
Nyengo: ya subtropical monsoon, yokhala ndi kugawa koonekera kwa nyengo yamvula ndi yowuma, chifunga chambiri, ndi kusiyana kwakukulu kwa kutentha kwa usana ndi usiku
Malo a kumera: mitengo yakale nthawi zambiri imamera m’nkhalango yosakanikirana kapena m’minda yochepa, ndi kulowererapo kochepa kwa munthu

Malo aatali, chifunga, ndi kuŵala kwa dzuŵa kwapakati kumachedwetsa kukula kwa mphukira, zomwe zimathandizira kuti masamba azipeza zigawo zambiri za fungo ndi kukoma. Kothamangitsidwa kwambiri ndi kothyola kwa masika (春茶, chūnchá), kothyoledwa pambuyo pa kusonkhanitsa kwa chomera zakudya m’nyengo yowuma. Mitengo yakale, mwachizolowezi, siimathiriridwa kapena kuikidwa feteleza mwamphamvu, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zokolola zake zizidalira kwambiri nyengo ya chaka chenichenicho.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

Kuthyola (采摘, cǎizhāi): kuthyola pamanja kwa mphukira zazing’ono
Kuyala ndi kufowoketsa (摊晾, tānliàng): tsamba limayalidwa kuti litaye gawo la chinyezi
Kuletsa kubiriwira (杀青, shāqīng): kutenthetsa m’miphika; kumachitidwa mofewa kuposa kwa tiyi wobiriwira, kuti asunge pang’ono ma enzyme
Kukulunga (揉捻, róuniǎn): kuumba tsamba ndi kumasula timadzi
Kuyanika padzuwa (晒干, shàigān): kupeza “maocha” — zopangira zoyanikidwa padzuwa (晒青毛茶, shàiqīng máochá)
Kutenthetsa ndi nthunzi ndi kufinya (蒸压, zhēngyā): kuumba mikate, njerwa, kapena “zisa”
Kuyanikitsa kotsiriza ndi kulongedza: kuyanika pang’onopang’ono kwa zinthu zomalizidwa

Chikhalidwe chachikulu cha sheng pu-erh n’chakuti kuletsa kubiriwira kumachitidwa pamlingo wochepa wa kusagwira ntchito kwa ma enzyme kusiyana ndi tiyi wobiriwira, ndipo kuyanika kumachitika padzuwa, osati ndi mpweya wotentha (烘青, hōngqīng) kapena m’miphika (炒青, chǎoqīng). Chifukwa cha izi, tiyi womalizidwa amasunga kuthekera kwa kukhwima kwachilengedwe kopita pambuyo pa kufefetsa. Mosiyana ndi pu-erh wokonzedwa (熟, shú), shengcha sadutsa m’ndondomeko ya mulu wonyowa (渥堆, wòduī) ndipo amakhwima mwachilengedwe.

6. Makhalidwe Organoleptic:

Tsamba louma: lobiriwira lakuda lokhala ndi mithunzi ya olive-bulauni, masamba akuluakulu opotoka, kaŵirikaŵiri okhala ndi mphukira zoyera
Mtundu wa madzi: kwa tiyi wachinyamata — wagolide wowala wokhala ndi kathunzi kobiriwira; ndi zaka za kusungidwa umakhala wozama kupita ku amber
Fungo: la maluwa-uchi, manoti a zipatso zouma, udzu wa m’mapiri; kwa tiyi watsopano kumveka kutsitsimuka “kobiriwira,” kwa wokalamba kumaonekera matani a nkhuni ndi camphor
Kukoma: thupi lokhuthala, “lolimba” (厚, hòu), kuwawa koyamba (苦, kǔ) ndi kukakatira (涩, sè), zomwe zimasandulika mwachangu kukhala kutsekemera
Kukoma kwapambuyo: kubwereza koonekera kwa kutsekemera (回甘, huígān) ndi kutulutsa malovu (生津, shēngjīn); kwa zopangira zabwino kumadziwika kumverera kwa “mphamvu ya tiyi” (茶气, cháqì)

Kwa tiyi wochokera ku mitengo yakale, kukhazikika kwa kukoma pakuthirira kambirimbiri ndi kuzama kwakukulu kwa kukoma kwapambuyo kumakhala kwachikhalidwe poyerekeza ndi zopangira za m’minda. Ndi zaka, madzi amakhala ofewa, kuwawa kumachoka, ndipo mawonekedwe amasunthira ku matani ofunda a zipatso-nkhuni.

7. Kapangidwe ka Mankhwala:

Ma polyphenol a tiyi (茶多酚, cháduōfēn): kwa mtundu wa masamba akuluakulu, gawo lawo, mwachizolowezi, limakhala lapamwamba kuposa mitundu ya masamba aang’ono
Ma catechin (儿茶素, érchásù): gwero lalikulu la kukakatira ndi kuwawa
Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): imapereka chisonkhezero chotonika
Ma amino acid, theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān): amapanga “umami” ndi manoti otsekemera
Ma polysaccharide ndi ma pigment: amatenga nawo mbali m’kupanga thupi la madzi ndi mtundu wake

Pamene kusungidwa kukupita, ma polyphenol amachita oxidized ndi kusandulika pang’onopang’ono, kuchuluka kwa ma catechin aulere kumatsika, chifukwa chake kwa sheng wokalamba kuwawa kumachepa, madzi amada, ndipo fungo limasintha. Kuchuluka kwenikweni kumadalira kwambiri chaka, malo a kuthyola, ndi mikhalidwe ya kusungidwa, chifukwa chake kupereka ziŵerengero zenizeni za gawo linalake n’kosayenera.

8. Zopindulitsa:

Chisonkhezero chotonika: chimachitika chifukwa cha caffeine, yopereka mphamvu ndi kumveka bwino
Kuthekera kwa antioxidant: kumagwirizana ndi kuchuluka kwakukulu kwa ma polyphenol
Malingaliro amwambo: m’chizolowezi cha China, sheng pu-erh nthawi zambiri amamwa pambuyo pa chakudya cholemetsa kapena chamafuta, kumugwirizanitsa ndi kumverera kopepuka

Tiyenera kuganizira kuti sheng wachinyamata ndi wolemera ndi ma polyphenol ndi caffeine ndipo pamimba yopanda kanthu angamveke wolimba, kuyambitsa kusamasuka kapena chisangalalo. Tiyi wokalamba pankhaniyi nthawi zambiri ndi wofewa. Izi zomwe zaperekedwa ndi zachikhalidwe chonse ndipo si malangizo a zachipatala; pa matenda osatha, kusamala n’koyenera.

9. Kuthira:

Chida: gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) kapena teapot ya Yixing (紫砂壶, zǐshāhú); porcelain ndi gaiwan ndi abwino kuwunika fungo ndi kamvedwe
Madzi: ofewa, okhala ndi mchere wochepa
Kutentha: kwa tiyi wochokera ku mitengo yakale 95–100 °C; kwa sheng wachinyamata ndi wolimba mungachepetse pafupifupi kufika 90 °C, kuti muchepetse kuwawa
Mlingo: pafupifupi 6–8 g pa 100–150 ml ndi njira ya kuthira kwachangu; kwa kuthira kosavuta m’voliyumu yaikulu — chochepa
Kutsuka (润茶, rùnchá / 洗茶, xǐchá): kuthira kwaufupi 5–10 masekondi, komwe kumathiridwa
Kuthira: kuthira koyamba n’kwaufupi (pafupifupi 5–10 masekondi), kenako nthawi imafulumizitsidwa pang’onopang’ono; zopangira zabwino zimalola 10–15 kapena kuposerapo kuthira

Njira ya gongfu ndi kuthira kwaufupi pafupipafupi kumatsitsimutsa bwino kusintha kwa kukoma: kusandulika kwa kuwawa kukhala kutsekemera, kukula kwa kukoma kwapambuyo ndi “mphamvu ya tiyi.” Tsamba la tiyi wokalamba lomwe lapereka zonse, ngati likufunidwa, limatha kuwiritsidwanso mu teapot.

10. Kusunga:

Mikhalidwe: malo owuma, otuluka mpweya opanda fungo lachilendo, kutali ndi kuŵala kwachindunji ndi magwero a kutentha
Chinyezi: chapakati, pafupifupi 55–70%; kuuma kopitirira muyeso kumachedwetsa kukhwima, chinyezi chochuluka chimayambitsa furere
Chidebe: kulongedza kotulutsa mpweya; pulasitiki wotseka wa nthawi yaitali posunga sheng siwoyenera
Mtundu wa kusunga: “nyumba yowuma” (干仓, gāncāng) imapereka kukhwima koyera, kodziŵikiratu ndipo n’koyenera poyerekeza ndi “nyumba yonyowa” (湿仓, shīcāng)

Sheng pu-erh ndi amodzi mwa tiyi omwe amakalambitsidwa mwadala: ndi zaka kuwawa kumachepa, madzi amada, ndipo mawonekedwe amakhala ozama ndi ofunda. Kukhazikika kwa mikhalidwe n’kofunika kuposa “kukwanira” kwake — kusintha kwadzidzidzi kwa kutentha ndi chinyezi kumawononga tiyi kwambiri kuposa mkhalidwe wocheperapo wosiyana ndi muyezo, koma wosasintha.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonyenga:

Mlingo wa mtengo: Banhai ndi dzina losadziwika kwenikweni, chifukwa chake tiyi wotere nthawi zambiri amakhala m’gawo la mtengo wapakati ndipo ndi wotchipa kwambiri poyerekeza ndi madera odziwika bwino monga Laobanzhang (老班章, Lǎobānzhāng), Bingdao (冰岛, Bīngdǎo) kapena Yiwu (易武, Yìwǔ). Mtengo weniweni umadalira kwambiri chaka, mtundu wa kuthyola, ndi wogulitsa, chifukwa chake n’koyenera kuwuwona monga mlingo osati chiŵerengero chokhazikika.

Ngozi yaikulu imagwirizana osati ndi chinyengo chachindunji cha mtundu wodziwika, koma ndi kukweza mlingo wa zopangira. Mawu oti “mitengo yakale” (老树) alibe tsanzo lokhwima la malamulo, ndipo pansi pake nthawi zambiri amagulitsa tiyi wa m’minda (台地茶, táidìchá) kapena zosakaniza ndi gawo laling’ono la zinthu zosankhidwa. Kusintha kwa chiyambi kumapezekanso: zopangira zochokera ku madera oyandikana nazo zimaperekedwa ngati za dera lenileni.

Zisonyezero zoyang’anira:

Thupi ndi kukoma kwapambuyo: tiyi weniweni wochokera ku mitengo yakale amapereka madzi okhuthala, kubwereza kozama ndi kwautali kwa kutsekemera, kukhazikika pa kuthira kambiri; chinyengo cha m’minda chimawawa mwachangu popanda kusandulika ndipo “chimatha” pakanthawi kochepa.
Tsamba lotambasulidwa: masamba akuluakulu, olimba, ndi otanuka okhala ndi mitsempha yowonekera ndi chizindikiro chabwino; tsamba losweka, laling’ono, ndi lodulidwa mofanana limadzutsa kukayikira.
Nzeru pa mtengo: tiyi wotsika mtengo mokayikitsa wa “mitengo yakale” pafupifupi n’zosakayikitsa kuti ndi woterotu.
Gwero: ogulitsa omwe amadziwika ndi chiyambi chowonekera cha magulu ndi mwayi woyesa tiyi asanagule ndiwo oyenera.

12. Mfundo Zosangalatsa:

Ulemu wa zopangira: malingaliro a msika a “m’minda” (台地), “mitengo ikuluikulu” (大树, dàshù), “mitengo yakale” (老树), ndi “mitengo yakalekale” (古树) amamangidwa malinga ndi zaka ndi mkhalidwe wa kumera, koma sali ofanana ndipo amatanthauziridwa mosiyanasiyana ndi ogulitsa.
Sheng motsutsana ndi shu: pu-erh waiwisi amakhwima mwachilengedwe kwa zaka, pamene pu-erh wokonzedwa (熟) amapezedwa m’masabata ndi mulu wonyowa (渥堆).
Kulemera kwa 357 g: mawonekedwe achikhalidwe a mkate amagwirizana ndi kulongedza kwa mbiri kwa “mikate isanu ndi iŵiri” (七子饼, qīzǐbǐng) mu mtolo umodzi “tǒng” (筒, tǒng).
Ntchito ya kuyanika padzuwa: ndiko kuyanika padzuwa (晒青) kumene kumasiyanitsa zopangira za pu-erh ndi tiyi wina wobiriwira ndipo kumasunga kuthekera kwa kukhwima kopitirira.
Kudalira nyengo: zokolola zochokera ku mitengo yakale yosathiriridwa zimasinthasintha kwambiri chaka ndi chaka, chifukwa chake tiyi yemweyo wa zokolola zosiyanasiyana angasiyane kwambiri pa khalidwe.

Pomaliza:

Banhai laoshu shengcha ndi woimira banja lalikulu la ma sheng pu-erh a ku Yunnan, amene mtengo wake umatsimikiziridwa osati ndi dzina lalikulu, koma ndi kuphatikiza kwa zopangira za mitengo yakale, mtundu wa masamba akuluakulu, ndi ukadaulo wachikhalidwe wa kuyanika padzuwa. Pakuthira mwachisamaliro, amadziwonetsa ndi madzi okhuthala, kuwawa kwamoyo kumene kumasandulika kukhala kutsekemera, ndi fungo la “mapiri” lachikhalidwe, ndipo pakusungidwa koyenera amatha kusintha ndi kuzama chaka ndi chaka.

Kuyandikira tiyi wotere n’kwanzeru kopanda zoyembekeza zokwezeka, koma ndi chidwi pa tsatanetsatane: kuyang’ana chiyambi ndi gulu la zopangira, kuwunika thupi ndi kukoma kwapambuyo mu kapu, osati cholembedwa pa chokutira chokha. N’pa mayina osadziwika kwenikweni, ofanana ndi Banhai, pomwe nthawi zambiri munthu angapeze chiŵerengero choona mtima cha mtengo ndi mtengo, pokhapokha ngati wogula atengera kukoma kwa tiyi, osati mawu a malonda.

the teas described here are available from teamotea