sān bǎo zhā · thetea.app

«Matumba Atatu» (三宝扎, sān bǎo zhā) ndi mankhwala ophatikizidwa a zomera a ku Guangdong opangidwa ngati kamfundo komangidwa, komwe khungu la mandarini losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali limagwira ntchito yokulunga ndi kukhalanso chimodzi mwa zigawo zazikulu, ndipo mkati mwake mumasonkhanitsidwa zitsamba zouma zingapo ndi zipatso. Phata la tanthauzo ndi kukoma kwa kamfundoko ndi khungu la mandarini la Xinhui losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali (新会陈皮, xīnhuì chénpí) — khungu la mandarini wa mtundu wa ‘chazhigan’ (Citrus reticulata ‘Chachi’), lomwe patsamba lathuli lili ndi nkhani yakeyake. Ndikofunika kunena momveka bwinoyi: mwa kawonedwe ka zomera, ichi si tiyi — palibe masamba a Camellia sinensis, ndipo chakumwa chomwe chimapezeka chimakhala cha gulu la ‘zoloweza tiyi’ (代用茶, dàiyòng chá), kutanthauza maphika a zitsamba omwe amaphikidwa ndi kumwedwa monga tiyi. ‘Matumba atatu’ amapangidwa m’chigawo cha Guangdong, makamaka m’dera la delta la Mtsinje wa Pearl (珠江三角洲, zhū jiāng sān jiǎo zhōu) ndi mozungulira mzinda wa Jiangmen (江门, jiāngmén). Mu chikhalidwe cha tsiku ndi tsiku cha Kantoni, timafundo timeneti ndi gawo la mwambo wa ‘maphika oziziritsa’ (凉茶, liáng chá) — zakumwa za tsiku ndi tsiku zomwe m’nyengo yotentha ndi yachinyontho zimathetsa ludzu ndi ‘kufewetsa pakhosi’.

1. Magulu ndi Chiyambi:

Mtundu: mphika wophatikizidwa wa zitsamba, choloweza tiyi (代用茶, dàiyòng chá).
Gulu: maphika a zomera ndi maluwa ouma (代用茶, dàiyòng chá) — kunja kwa gulu la zomera la tiyi kuchokera ku Camellia sinensis
Kwawo: chigawo cha Guangdong, kum’mwera kwa China; mtima wa mwambowu ndi dera la Xinhui mumzinda wa Jiangmen.
Chigawo chofunikira: khungu la mandarini la Xinhui losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali (新会陈皮, xīnhuì chénpí).
Mawonekedwe ogulitsira: kamfundo komangidwa; chilembo 扎 (zhā) chimatanthauza ‘mtolo, chomangira’.

Tiyenera kunena mosapita m’mbali: mu ‘matumba atatu’ mulibe masamba a tiyi a Camellia sinensis, ndipo malinga ndi zigawo zake, si tiyi, koma mphika wa zomera. Mu dongosolo la zakumwa la China, mankhwala oterewa amadutsa ngati 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá) — ‘choloweza tiyi’: zopangira zimaphikidwa m’njira yofanana ndi tiyi, koma mwa zomera sizigwirizana ndi chitsamba cha tiyi. Ichi si ‘chonamizira’ m’lingaliro lonyoza, koma mtundu wodziyimira pawokha wokhala ndi mbiri yake, maziko ake a zopangira ndi luso lake lakuphika, lomwe limapezeka ku Guangdong mofanana ndi tiyi weniweni.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Nkhani: chikhalidwe cha Kantoni cha ‘maphika oziziritsa’ (凉茶, liáng chá).
Muzu wa mwambo: chizolowezi cha zaka mazana ambiri chosunga khungu la citrus ku Xinhui.

Guangdong ndi nyengo yake yotentha ndi yachinyontho kuyambira kale idapanga chizolowezi cha maphika a zitsamba otsitsimula. Mchaka cha 2006 mwambo wa Kantoni wa 凉茶 (liáng chá) udalembedwa pamndandanda wa cholowa cha chikhalidwe chosagwirika cha China — mogwirizana ndi Hong Kong ndi Macau. ‘Matumba atatu’ amalowa mu mzere watsiku ndi tsiku umenewu: kamfundo komangidwa n’kosavuta kusunga, kuyeza gawo ndi kuphika, osasankha zigawo zosiyanasiyana nthawi iliyonse.

Kulemera kwapadera kwa mankhwalawa kumabwera ndi khungu la mandarini lochokera ku Xinhui. Khungu la zipatso za citrus losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali kumeneko limayamikiridwa kwa zaka mazana ambiri, ndipo kumene kusungidwa kwanthawi yayitali, kumapangitsa kuti khalidwe likhale lapamwamba. Kuphatikiza khungu lotereli ndi zitsamba zingapo zothandizira mu kamfundo kamodzi — ndi njira yothandiza komanso ‘yolemekezeka’: imakweza chakumwa choziziritsa chapakhomo kupitirira mphika wamba.

3. Kufotokozera Zomera ndi Zopangira:

Chokulunga (chigawo chokhazikika): khungu la mandarini la Xinhui losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali (新会陈皮, xīnhuì chénpí), Citrus reticulata ‘Chachi’, banja la Rutaceae.
Zigawo zamkati: zimasiyana malinga ndi malo opangira; palibe njira yovomerezeka.

Kunena zoona, ‘matumba atatu’ alibe kapangidwe kamodzi kovomerezeka: mtundu weniweni ndi milingo yake zimatsimikiziridwa ndi wopanga. Dzina lakuti ‘matumba atatu’ ndi lophiphiritsira komanso lomveka bwino, osati kuwerengera kokhazikika kwa zinthu zitatu, — chiwerengero cha zowonjezera m’malo osiyanasiyana opangira chimasiyana. Pansipa palembedwa zigawo zomwe zimapezeka mokhazikika, popanda kudzinenera kuti ndi njira yeniyeni.

胖大海 (pàng dà hǎi): mbewu zomwe zimatupa kwambiri m’madzi. Kutchulidwa kwachilatini m’mabuku kumasiyana: mwachikhalidwe Sterculia lychnophora Hance, m’madongosolo amakono amtunduwu nthawi zambiri amayikidwa mu mtundu wa Scaphium (mwachitsanzo, Scaphium affine), banja la Malvaceae (m’mbuyomu Sterculiaceae). N’kovuta kupereka dzina limodzi; zopangira zimatumizidwa kuchokera ku Southeast Asia.
甘草 (gān cǎo): muzu wa ndulu; pansi pa dzina limeneli amagwiritsa ntchito mitundu ingapo ya Glycyrrhiza (kuphatikizapo G. uralensis, G. glabra, G. inflata). Umapereka kutsekemera kofewa.
罗汉果 (luó hàn guǒ): chipatso cha ‘arhat’, Siraitia grosvenorii; gwero lachilengedwe la kutsekemera.
橄榄 / 青橄榄 (gǎn lǎn): azitona yoyera ya China, Canarium album; chipatso chokhala ndi kakomedwe ka kukhuthala-mchere kapena chouma.
金银花 (jīn yín huā): honeysuckle ya Japan, Lonicera japonica; nthawi zina amawonjezera maluwa a chrysanthemum (菊花, jú huā).

Malo aliwonse opangira amatanthauzira ‘matumba’ m’njira yakeyake: kwinakwake mu kamfundoko muli ndulu ndi ‘pangdahai’, kwinakwake amawonjezera ‘luohanguo’ kapena azitona. Chokhazikika chokhacho ndi khungu la mandarini la Xinhui losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali monga chokulunga ndi maziko a kukoma.

4. Malo ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

Malo ofunika kwambiri: dera la Xinhui, delta la Mtsinje wa Pearl.
Mikhalidwe: kuphatikizika kwa mitsinje ya Xijiang (西江, xī jiāng) ndi Tanjiang (潭江, tán jiāng), chikoka cha mafunde a nyanja, madzi amchere pafupi ndi nyanja ya Yinzhou (银洲湖, yín zhōu hú).

Khungu la mandarini la Xinhui ndi mankhwala okhala ndi chisonyezo cha malo otetezedwa, ndipo mbiri yake imalumikizidwa ndi mikhalidwe yamalowa. Kusakanikirana kwa madzi abwino a mitsinje ndi amchere a mafunde, dothi la alluvial la delta ndi nyengo yofewa ya m’mphepete mwa nyanja zimaumba mawonekedwe apadera a khungu la mtundu wa ‘chazhigan’ (茶枝柑, chá zhī gān), womwe umatchedwanso ‘mandarini wa Xinhui’. Kunja kwa dera limeneli, khungu limayikidwa mu gulu lalikulu la ‘Guangdong’ (广陈皮, guǎng chénpí), lomwe khalidwe lake limayesedwa mosiyana.

Zigawo zina za kamfundoko zimachokera kumadera osiyanasiyana: ‘pangdahai’ amalowetsa kuchokera ku Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia; ‘luohanguo’ mwachikhalidwe amalumikizidwa ndi Guangxi; ndulu amatuta m’madera akumpoto ndi kumpoto chakumadzulo. Chomwecho, ‘matumba atatu’ ndi mankhwala ophatikizidwa, pomwe malo m’lingaliro lenileni amakhudza makamaka khungu la mandarini.

5. Luso la Kupanga:

Khungu la mandarini: kututa mandarini, kuchotsa khungu, kuumitsa, kusunga kwa nthawi yayitali (kawirikawiri kuyambira zaka zitatu kapena kuposerapo).
Kusonkhanitsa: kupanga kamfundo kuchokera ku kazingwe ka khungu mozungulira zigawo zouma ndi kukamanga.

Khungu limachotsedwa ndi macheka moti limatseguka m’magawo olumikizidwa (nthawi zambiri atatu — 三瓣, sān bàn), kenako limaumitsidwa ndi kusiyidwa kuti lipse. Kusungidwa kumachitika kwa zaka, ndi kupumitsa mpweya ndi kuumitsa mwakanthawi; panthawi imeneyi, kumachepetsa kukali kwa khungu latsopano ndipo fungo lodziwika bwino la ‘chikale’ limakula.

Kuti apange kamfundo, amagwiritsa ntchito khungu lathunthu kapena la kazingwe losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali: amakulunga nazo zigawo zouma zosankhidwa ndi kuzikokera mu mtolo wolimba. Chokulunga apa chimagwira ntchito pawiri — chimagwirizira zozaza ndipo nthawi yomweyo chimapereka kukoma kwa mphika wam’tsogolo. Popeza kapangidwe sikanakhazikitsidwe, kulemera ndi zozaza za timafundo kwa opanga osiyanasiyana zimasiyana.

6. Makhalidwe a Organoleptic:

Maonekedwe akunja: kamfundo kolimba ka bulauni woderapo ndi chokulunga chooneka cha khungu.
Fungo la zopangira zouma: khungu la citrus losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali, mauthenga a utomoni-zitsamba.
Mtundu wa mphikawo: kuchokera ku golide mpaka amber.
Kukoma: kuwawa kwa citrus kwa khungu, kutsekemera kwachilengedwe kofewa (ndulu, ‘luohanguo’), ‘choziziritsa’, pambuyo pake kamvedwe kosalala pang’ono.

Kukhazikika kumatengera kwambiri njira: mitundu yokhala ndi ‘luohanguo’ ndi ndulu ndi yotsekemera kwambiri, pamene kutsindika pa khungu ndi ‘pangdahai’ kumapereka mawonekedwe odzisunga, atsopano-owawa.

7. Kapangidwe ka Makemikolo:

Kuchokera ku khungu: flavonoids, makamaka hesperidin (橙皮苷, chéng pí gān) ndi polymethoxyflavones — nobiletin (川陈皮素, chuān chén pí sù) ndi tangeretin (橘皮素, jú pí sù); mafuta ofunika omwe amalamuliridwa ndi limonene (柠檬烯, níng méng xī); pectins.
Kuchokera ku ndulu: glycyrrhizic acid (甘草酸, gān cǎo suān), yomwe imapereka kutsekemera.
Kuchokera ku ‘luohanguo’: mogrosides (罗汉果苷, luó hàn guǒ gān) — mankhwala otsekemera kwambiri.
Kuchokera ku ‘pangdahai’: ma polysaccharides a mamina, omwe amatupa m’madzi.

Kapangidwe kotsiriza kamatengera mwachindunji njira ya mtolo weniweniwo, choncho kulankhula za kukhazikika kosasunthika n’kosayenera.

8. Zopindulitsa:

Monga momwe amaganizira mwamwambo watsiku ndi tsiku: chakumwachi chimayamikiridwa ngati chatsopano ndi ‘chofewetsa pakhosi’, kuchilumikiza ndi malingaliro a chochita ‘choziziritsa’ (凉茶) ndi ‘kuwongolera qi’ (理气, lǐ qì) ndi khungu losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali; zigawo zina m’machitidwe achikhalidwe zimalumikizidwa ndi malingaliro a ‘kunyowetsa pakhosi’ (润喉, rùn hóu) ndi ‘kuchepetsa mamina’ (化痰, huà tán).
Zomwe sayansi imaphunzira: ma flavonoids a khungu la citrus (hesperidin, polymethoxyflavones) amafufuzidwa pa zochita za antioxidant; mogrosides a ‘luohanguo’ amaphunziridwa ngati zotsekemera zachilengedwe. Zimenezi ndi za makhalidwe a mankhwala enieni, osati za chochita chotsimikizirika cha chakumwacho.

Mawu achindunji ndi ofunikira: ‘matumba atatu’ ndi chakudya, osati mankhwala. Zonena zathanzi za malonda ogulitsa zimapitirira malire a encyclopedia ndipo sizitulutsidwa pano. Mwa machenjezo odziwika bwino ndi koyenera kutchula mosachenjera: kudziletsa koyenera; kusamala ponena za ndulu ndi glycyrrhizic acid kwa iwo omwe amayang’anira kuthamanga kwa magazi; kudziletsa pa nthawi ya pakati ndi pamene akumwa mankhwala nthawi zonse; kumwa kwa tsiku ndi tsiku kwa nthawi yayitali kwa zigawo monga ‘pangdahai’ mwamwambo sikulimbikitsidwanso. Awa ndi malangizo onse, osati uphungu wa zamankhwala kapena miyeso.

9. Kuphika:

Kuchuluka: kamfundo kamodzi pa gawo limodzi; pafupifupi 8 — 15 g, malinga ndi kukula kwa mtolo.
Zombo: gaiwan, teapot, thermos kapena kapu wamba; kuphika mu poto kumaloledwanso.
Madzi: otentha, pafupifupi 95 — 100 °C — zopangira ndi zolimba (khungu, mbewu, zipatso) ndipo zimafuna kutentha kwakukulu.
Kutsuka: kutsuka mwachidule ndi madzi otentha asanaphike ndi koyenera.
Kulowetsa: mphika woyamba — 2 — 4 mphindi; kenako nthawi imawonjezeka.
Kuthirira mobwereza: kuphika kangapo; kamfundo kamapereka kukoma bwino mobwereza, ndipo kuti mukhale ndi mphika wothira kwambiri, kamfundo kathu kamatha kuwiritsidwa kwa 10 — 20 mphindi.
Kupereka: amamwa kotentha; m’nyengo yotentha, mphikawo amaziziritsa mpaka kutentha kwa chipinda ndi kumwa wozizira — mwa mzimu wa 凉茶.

10. Kusunga:

Mikhalidwe: malo ouma, ozizira, opumira mpweya, kutali ndi fungo lachilendo.
Zowopsyeza: chinyezi chokwezeka chimabweretsa chimawisi; tizilombo toononga tingathe kupezeka.

Pali kanthu kochenjera apa: khungu lenilenilo limapindula ndi kusungidwa kwanthawi yayitali ndi mpweya, pamene zowonjezera za zitsamba ndi zipatso zimafuna koposa zonse kuuma. Kugwirizanitsa kothandiza ndiko kusunga timafundo m’malo ouma, kuteteza ku chinyezi ndi fungo lotoŵa, kuyang’ana nthawi ndi nthawi zizindikiro za kunyowa.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonamizira:

Zomwe zimatsimikiza mtengo: koposa zonse mtundu ndi zaka za khungu-chokulunga; khungu likakhala lachikale komanso ‘la Xinhui’, ndipamene kamfundo kamakhala kokwera mtengo.
Cholinga (mulingo wa kuchuluka): chiwerengero chimodzi chodalirika sichingaperekedwe chifukwa cha kusiyana kwa njira; mitolo yachangu pa khungu laling’ono imayesedwa makumi a yuan pa kilogalamu, pamene mitundu ya khungu lenileni la Xinhui losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali imatsata mtengo wa 新会陈皮 weniweni ndipo ingafikire mazana a yuan pa kilogalamu kapena kuposerapo.

Momwe zopangira zodalirika zimaonekera: chokulunga — chochokera ku khungu lenileni losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali ndi fungo lodziwika la ‘chikale’, ma gland a mafuta owoneka ndi mtundu wosagwirizana mwachilengedwe; zowonjezera — zathunthu, zodziwika, zopanda fungo la chikale. Zomwe amasinthira: khungu laling’ono kapena losakhala la Xinhui, loperekeka ngati losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali; khungu ‘locala’ mwachinyengo; zitsamba zotsika mtengo kapena zosakanikirana. Zoyenera kuyang’ana: fungo la khungu (lisakhale la mafuta onunkhira kwambiri kapena lovunda), kusakhalapo kwa zizindikiro za kupaka utoto ndi kununkhiritsa, kuuma konse ndi kusawonongeka kwa kamfundo. Zonena za ‘zaka’ zenizeni za khungu popanda umboni ziyenera kulandiridwa mwatsankho.

12. Zinthu Zosangalatsa:

Za dzina: ‘matumba atatu’ ndi mawu omveka bwino kwambiri, osati kuwerengera kokhazikika kwa zigawo; chiwerengero chenicheni cha zowonjezera kumalo opangira osiyanasiyana chimasiyana.
Ntchito yapawiri ya khungu: khungu la Xinhui pano ndilo phukusi ndi maziko a kukoma nthawi imodzi.
Madera a zopangira: kamfundo kamaphatikiza khungu la Guangdong la m’deralo ndi ‘pangdahai’ wolowa kuchokera ku Southeast Asia ndi ‘luohanguo’ wochokera ku Guangxi.
Cholowa: 凉茶 (liáng chá) ya Kantoni, yomwe ‘matumba atatu’ amalumikizidwa ndi mwambo wake, ili pamndandanda wa cholowa cha chikhalidwe chosagwirika cha China.
Kugawika: mawonekedwe a mtolo — kwenikweni ndi ‘gawo lachilengedwe la kuphika kamodzi’.

Pomaliza:

«Matumba Atatu» (三宝扎, sān bǎo zhā) ndi chitsanzo chodziwika bwino cha mtundu wa Guangdong wa maphika a zomera: kamfundo komangidwa, momwe khungu la mandarini la Xinhui losungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali limasonkhanitsa pamodzi zitsamba zouma zingapo ndi zipatso. Ichi si tiyi m’lingaliro la zomera — Camellia sinensis mulibe momwemo, ndipo n’koyenera kuyika mankhwalawa mu 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá). Koma kumbuyo kwa izi pali mwambo wathunthu wokhala ndi malo ake a khungu, luso losungira ndi kusonkhanitsa, mawonekedwe odziwika a kukoma ndi chikhalidwe cha kuphika, chomwe n’choyenera kufotokozera mwaulemu, osati ngati ‘chonamizira cha tiyi’.

Tanthauzo lothandiza la mankhwalawa ndi losavuta ndi loona mtima: ndi chakumwa chokoma cha tsiku ndi tsiku, chomwe umunthu wake umaperekedwa ndi khalidwe la khungu, ndipo njira ya zowonjezera imakhalabe nkhani ya malo opangira, osati muyezo wokhwima. Pachifukwa chimenechi, n’kwanzeru kuyandikira ‘matumba atatu’ ndi chidwi pa kuwona kwenikweni kwa zopangira ndi maganizo oyenera pa malonjezo a thanzi — monga gawo la chikhalidwe cha tsiku ndi tsiku, osati ngati mankhwala.

the teas described here are available from teamotea