lóngshén chá

Longshen cha (龙神茶) ndi Bikou Longjing (碧口龙井) ndi tiyi wobiriwira wochokera kum’mwera kwa Gansu, m’mphepete mwa Mtsinje wa White Dragon (白龙江, Báilóngjiāng). Awa ndi malo akutali kwambiri kumadzulo kwa dera lalikulu la tiyi kumpoto kwa Mtsinje wa Yangtze (江北, Jiāngběi), kumene chikhalidwe cha tiyi chimadalira mitundu yobweretsedwa ndi zigwa zazing’ono za mitsinje.

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: tiyi wobiriwira (绿茶, lǜchá).
• Gulu: míngyōu — “wapamwamba”; potengera malo ake pamsika 口粮–中, tiyi wa “tsiku ndi tsiku-wapakati” — chinthu chabwino chakumaloko, osati chizindikiro chapamwamba chotumizidwa kunja.
• Chiyambi: dera la mapiri a Longnan (陇南, Lǒngnán) kum’mwera kwa chigawo cha Gansu, kumalire kwenikweni ndi Sichuan ndi Shaanxi. Minda ya tiyi imakhala mozungulira tawuni ya Bikou (碧口, Bìkǒu) ndi m’zigwa zomwe zadulidwa ndi Mtsinje wa White Dragon (白龙江, Báilóngjiāng).
• Dera: malekezero akumadzulo kwenikweni kwa dera la Jiangbei (江北, Jiāngběi) — malo akutali kwambiri kumadzulo kwa dera lalikulu la tiyi kumpoto kwa Yangtze, kumene tiyi sakupezekanso.
• Mayina awiri — mitundu iwiri: Bikou Longjing (碧口龙井) — wopanda, mawonekedwe a “longjing”; Longshen cha (龙神茶) — wozunguliridwa, wopindika.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Kulima tiyi kum’mwera kwa Gansu ndi chinthu chatsopano, zotsatira za kubweretsa chikhalidwecho kumpoto m’zaka za m’ma 1900, ndipo m’njira iyi Bikou ali pamodzi ndi tiyi “watsopano” wa Shandong ndi Shaanxi. Koma mwachilengedwe ichi ndi chodabwitsa chapadera: Longnan ndi malo okhawo enieni a tiyi m’chigawo chonse cha Gansu, “lilime” lodabwitsa lanyengo yamvula yakum’mwera, lomwe latambasuka motsatira Mtsinje wa White Dragon.

Mtsinje uwu ndi mtsempha wamadzi ndi chikhalidwe cha dera: zigwa zake zakhala njira pakati pa chigwa cha Sichuan ndi kumpoto chakumadzulo kuyambira kale. Kukula kwa tiyi ku Bikou kumadalira kulumikizana uku — kuyandikira miyambo ya tiyi ya Sichuan ndi Shaanxi, komwe mitundu ndi njira zopangira, kuphatikiza kukazinga kwa longjing, zinachokera. Kwa Gansu, tiyi wakumaloko ndi chinthu chonyadira chigawo: umboni wakuti ngakhale kumpoto chakumadzulo kowuma kuli kachigawo kake ka minda yobiriwira.

3. Kufotokozera Kwachomera ndi Zopangira:

Zopangira zimathyoledwa ngati míngqián (明前), kutanthauza chisanachitike chikondwerero cha Qingming, chomwe chimagwirizana ndi gawo la míngyōu — “wapamwamba”. Kuthyola koyambirira kumatanthauza masamba ang’onoang’ono, ofewa ndi masamba, opangidwa pa nthawi ya masika ozizira aatali. Kukula pang’onopang’ono m’mphepete mwa malo ozizira kumawunjika kukoma ndikupereka tsamba lolimba, lodzaza — khalidwe la tiyi wa m’malire a kumpoto.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

Mwachilengedwe cha tiyi, uku ndi kwapadera. Gansu ndi chigawo chouma chakumpoto chakumadzulo, chomwe chimadziwika ndi udzu ndi Silk Road, osati minda ya tiyi. Koma ngodya yakum’mwera ya Longnan ili mumthunzi wa mapiri, pomwe nyengo imasintha kwambiri: mpweya wonyowa wochokera ku chigwa cha Sichuan umagwira ntchito pano, chilimwe chimakhala chofunda ndi chamvula, ndipo mapiri amapereka kusiyana kwa kutalika ndi chifunga chosalekeza. N’chifukwa chake Bikou ndi zigwa zoyandikana zimapanga “malo obiriwira” akutali — malekezero akumadzulo a dera la Jiangbei, kumene tiyi sakupezekanso.

Terroir pano imatsimikiziridwa ndi zinthu zitatu: maphompho a Mtsinje wa White Dragon ndi kuwala kwawo komwazikana komanso chinyezi chambiri; mitunda yapakati ndi mausiku ozizira, omwe amachedwetsa kukula kwa masamba; ndi dothi lam’mapiri la acidic pamapiri. Pamodzi, izi zimapereka zopangira ndi tsamba lolimba, lodzaza — khalidwe la tiyi wa m’malire a kumpoto, kumene kukula pang’onopang’ono kumawunjika kukoma.

• Mitundu / Cultivar: m’magulu a gwero, Longshen / Bikou Longjing ndi wa gulu la 引种 (yǐnzhǒng) — “wobweretsedwa”, kutanthauza wolimidwa pa mitundu yobweretsedwa, osati pa mtundu wakale wakumaloko. Izi zimagwirizanitsa tiyi wa Gansu ndi madera ambiri a tiyi “atsopano” akumpoto — Shandong, zigawo zakumpoto za Shaanxi — pomwe kulima tiyi m’mafakitale kunakhazikika m’zaka za m’ma 1900 pobweretsa cultivars zochokera kum’mwera.
• M’minda ya Longnan, mitundu yobweretsedwa ndi mitundu ina imayenderana ndi 群体种 (qúntǐ zhǒng) — mitundu yosakanikirana ya mbewu, yomwe idazolowera pang’onopang’ono ku malo awo. Kuzolowera uku — zaka zosankhira zomera zomwe zidapulumuka nyengo yozizira komanso chisanu chakumapeto kwa malekezero akumadzulo, — kumapereka tiyi khalidwe losiyana ndi la mitundu yakum’mwera.

5. Luso la Kupanga:

Longshen ndi Bikou Longjing ndi tiyi wamakono wobiriwira (绿茶, lǜchá): okosijeni amalepheretsedwa koyambirira kuti asunge kutsitsimuka kwa tsamba ndi mawonekedwe obiriwira a madzi. Zopangira zimathyoledwa ngati míngqián (明前), chisanafike chikondwerero cha Qingming.

Mawonekedwe a tsamba mu tiyi awa ndi awiri — 条/扁形 (tiáo / biǎn xíng), wozungulira kapena wopanda. Ichi ndicho fungulo lakumvetsetsa mayina awiriwa:

• Bikou Longjing (碧口龙井) — wopanda, mawonekedwe a “longjing”. Tsamba limapanikizidwa ndi kusisitidwa mu poto wotentha, kumulipatsa mawonekedwe osalala, opyapyala monga Lóngjǐng wotchuka wa Zhejiang. Dzinali likulozera mwachindunji ku kalembedwe aka: “longjing wochokera ku Bikou”.
• Longshen cha (龙神茶) — wozunguliridwa, wopindika, pomwe tsamba limakhalabe ndi mawonekedwe aatali.

Mizere yonse iwiri imadutsa mu ndondomeko yoyambirira ya tiyi wobiriwira: kufowoketsa / kuyala → kukonza zobiriwira (杀青, shāqīng) → kuumba → kuyanika. Mu kalembedwe kopanda, kuumba ndi kukonza zobiriwira kumaphatikizidwa kwambiri pakukazinga m’poto ndi manja kapena makina; mu kalembedwe kozungulira — tsamba limapindidwa kaye, kenako kuyanikidwa. Kusiyana kwa mawonekedwe omaliza ndi mawonekedwe ofanana obiriwira ndi mchitidwe wamba wa madera omwe adaphunzira kalembedwe kotchuka kakum’mwera: akatswiri akumaloko adatengera luso la Longjing, kupatsa tiyi dzina lodziwika.

6. Makhalidwe a Organoleptic:

Mbiri imatsimikizidwa ndi malingaliro a malire akumpoto: tsamba lokula pang’onopang’ono, lolimba limapereka madzi odzaza komanso “onenepa” kuposa momwe tiyi ofewa akum’mwera a kumayambiriro kwa masika amaperekera. Kuchokera ku tiyi wobiriwira wa Jiangbei, pano tikuyembekezera:

• madzi oyera, obiriwira momveka kapena achikasu-biriwira;
• kukoma kwatsopano, kopindikira pang’ono komanso thupi lomveka;
• kamvekedwe kawa “mgoza” wobiriwira-mtedza, kachitidwe ka tiyi wakumpoto, kopangidwa ndi kukazinga m’poto;
• kukoma kotsalira kofewa.

Mtundu wopanda (Bikou Longjing) uli pafupi ndi muyezo wa longjing mu kalembedwe — kouma, kukoma kwokazinga ndi tsamba losalala; mtundu wozungulira (Longshen) umapereka madzi odzaza pang’ono, opindika.

9. Kupanga:

Malangizo a kupanga ndi ofanana ndi a tiyi wobiriwira wofewa:

• madzi 80–85 °C, osati madzi otentha kwambiri, apo ayi masamba ofewa “aphika” ndikutulutsa kuwawa;
• mlingo wochepa, pafupifupi 3 g pa 150 ml;
• galasi kapena gàiwǎn, kuti muone “kuvina” kwa masamba;
• kwa zopangira zofewa kwambiri za míngqián, njira ya “kuthira pamwamba” (上投法, shàngtóu fǎ) ndi yoyenera — masamba amathiridwa m’madzi omwe ali kale;
• 2-3 kuthira pang’ono, kuyang’ana momwe tsamba limatsegukira.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonamizira:

Longshen / Bikou Longjing ndi tiyi wachigawo, wofunika kumaloko, ndipo mulingo wake wadziko wa GB/T pansi pa dzina lenileni ili sunalembedwe. Monga tiyi wobiriwira, ali pansi pa malamulo onse a tiyi wobiriwira a PRC, omwe amatsogolera kugawa molingana ndi mitundu ndi nyengo yothyola, koma kumupatsa nambala yakeya mulingo popanda umboni sikungakhale koyenera. Potengera malo ake pamsika, ndi 口粮–中 — tiyi wa “tsiku ndi tsiku-wapakati”: chinthu chabwino chakumaloko, osati chizindikiro chapamwamba chotumizidwa kunja.

Zizindikiro zingapo kuti musasokoneze tiyi wa Gansu ndi wa oyandikana nawo m’mphepete mwa Jiangbei:

• Chiyambi. Longshen / Bikou Longjing weniweni amachokera ku chigawo cha Longnan ku mmwera kwa Gansu, m’mphepete mwa Mtsinje wa White Dragon. Awa ndi malekezero akumadzulo a dera lonse la Jiangbei; palibe “dera lakale la tiyi” pano — mitundu yake ndi yobweretsedwa.
• Mitundu iwiri pansi pa mayina awiri. Ngati muwona tsamba lopanda, losisitidwa “monga Longjing” — ili ndi Bikou Longjing; ngati wozungulira — Longshen cha. Mawonekedwe onse a tiyi wobiriwira ndi ofanana kwa onse.
• Thupi la madzi. Mosiyana ndi tiyi ofewa akum’mwera a kumayambiriro kwa masika, tsamba lakumpoto limapereka kukoma kolimba, kodzaza ndi thupi lomveka komanso kamvekedwe ka mgoza — chotsatira cha kukula pang’onopang’ono m’mphepete mwa malo ozizira.
• Osasokoneza ndi miyezo. Bikou Longjing ndi kalembedwe ka “monga Longjing”, osati Xīhú Lóngjǐng wa Zhejiang; sayenera kufunafuna udindo ndi mtengo wa chipangocho. Uwu ndi tiyi wapachigawo wachilungamo wa gulu lapakati.
• Zoyembekezera zenizeni. Longshen / Bikou Longjing ndi yamfunopamfuno makamaka ngati chodabwitsa cha chilengedwe komanso tiyi wabwino wobiriwira wakumaloko — malo akutali kwambiri kumadzulo a dera lalikulu la Jiangbei, — osati ngati chinthu chapamwamba chosonkhanitsidwa.

12. Mfundo Zosangalatsa:

• Bikou ndi zigwa zoyandikana zimapanga “malo obiriwira” akutali — “lilime” lodabwitsa lanyengo yamvula yakum’mwera, lomwe latambasuka motsatira Mtsinje wa White Dragon kudera louma lakumpoto chakumadzulo kwa Gansu.
• Longnan ndi malo okhawo enieni a tiyi m’chigawo chonse cha Gansu.
• Zigwa za Mtsinje wa White Dragon zakhala njira pakati pa chigwa cha Sichuan ndi kumpoto chakumadzulo kuyambira kale; njirayi inabweretsa ku Bikou mitundu ndi njira zopangira, kuphatikizapo kukazinga kwa longjing.