lǜchá

Tiyi wobiriwira si chakumwa chimodzi, koma banja lonse, logwirizana ndi mfundo imodzi yaumisiri: kuyimitsa makoledwe kumayambiriro kwenikweni ndi kusunga ‘kubiriwira’ kwa tsamba. Chinsinsi cha banja ili ndi ntchito ya shā qīng (杀青), ‘kupha kubiriwira’, ndi njira yotenthetsera yomwe yagwiritsidwa ntchito.

Zomwe Zimapangitsa Tiyi Kukhala Wobiriwira

Tiyi wonse wobiriwira — kuchokera ku lóng jǐng (龙井) wophwadwa mpaka ku zhū chá (珠茶) wokulungidwa — amadutsa pa ndondomeko yofanana:

鲜叶 (摊放) → 杀青 → 揉捻 (做形) → 干燥

Kutanthauza: tsamba latsopano, kuyala pang’ono kuti lifowoke pang’ono, kupha-kubiriwira, kukulunga-kupanga maonekedwe, ndi kuumitsa. Kusiyana pakati pa mitundu yambiri yodziwika sikupezeka pakusintha ndondomekoyi, koma mu tinthu tating’ono ta magawo ake awiri — shā qīng (mtundu wa kutenthetsa) ndi zuò xíng (做形, kupanga maonekedwe).

Kusiyana kwakukulu kwa gulu lobiriwira ndi lofiira (lakuda malinga ndi mayina a kumadzulo) — n’kuti liti ndipo chiyani chimachita enzyme. Tiyi wofiira amati kukulunga kwake (róu niǎn, 揉捻) kumayambitsa makoledwe. Tiyi wobiriwira n’zosiyana: shā qīng yotentha kwambiri imachitika isanayambike makoledwe, ndipo enzyme imasiyitsidwa ntchito.

Chemistri: Chifukwa Chake Tsamba Limakhalabe Lobbywira

Wochita sewero lalikulu pano ndi polyphenol oxidase (多酚氧化酶, PPO). Enzyme imeneyi ikakhala ndi mpweya imakolola ma catechin, kusandutsa tsamba lobiriwira kukhala lofiira. Ntchito ya shā qīng n’kufulumira kukweza kutentha kwa tsamba ndi kulepheretsa PPO kuti isayambitse makoledwe. Makoledwe sangoyamba konse.

Zotsatira zake n’kusungidwa kwa zinthu zingapo zomwe zimapanga kukoma kwa tiyi wobiriwira:

• 茶多酚 (ma polyphenol a tiyi, ma catechin, kuphatikizapo EGCG) — amapereka kuwawa, kukangika, ndi dongosolo lonse la madzi a tiyi;
• 叶绿素 (chlorophyll) — mtundu wobiriwira wa tsamba ndi madzi a tiyi;
• 茶氨酸 (theanine) — kukoma kwa umami ndi kutsekemera;
• vitamini C.

Kukoma koyenera kwa tiyi wobiriwira kumakhazikika pamaziko atatu: xiān shuǎng (鲜爽, chisangalalo chatsopano chochokera ku theanine ndi ma amino acid — kumakhala kochuluka pa zokolora zoyambirira ndi zothinikizidwa), kǔ sè (苦涩, kuwawa-kukangika kochokera ku ma catechin — kumakhala kochuluka pa zokolola za chilimwe), ndi huí gān (回甘, kutsekemera kobwerera).

Kuchokera pano palinso chinthu chachikulu chosungira. Tiyi wobiriwira ‘sakalamba’ mwaulemu, mosiyana ndi pǔ ěr kapena tiyi woyera. Chimene chimayamikiridwa ndi tsamba latsopano kwenikweni — xīn chá (新茶), zokolora za míng qián (明前, Qingming isanachitike) ndi yǔ qián (雨前, 谷雨, Mvula ya Tirigu isanachitike). Ayenera kusungidwa m’kuzizira, popanda kuwala ndi fungo lachilendo.

Kufowoketsa Pang’ono ndi Kuumitsa: maziko ozungulira kupha-kubiriwira

Asanafike pa shā qīng, tsamba limadutsa 摊放 (tān fàng) — kuyala kuti litaye chinyezi pang’ono ndi kusonkhanitsa fungo. Izi n’zofewa ndi zazifupi kuposa kufowoketsa kwakukulu (wěi diāo, 萎凋) kwa tiyi wofiira: cholinga n’kusayambitsa makoledwe, koma kungokonzekeretsa tsamba.

Kutseka ndondomekoyi ndi 干燥 (kuumitsa) — chǎo gān (炒干, kukazinga), hōng gān (烘干, kuumitsa m’ng’anjo), kapena shài gān (晒干, padzuwa). Kuumitsa kumakhazikitsa maonekedwe ndi kumaliza kununkhira: pokazinga, fungo la mtedza la lì xiāng (栗香) ndi ‘kutentha kwa mbiya’ guō qì (锅气) limatuluka; poumitsa m’ng’anjo, fungo loyera lamaluwa-udzu la qīng xiāng (清香) limatuluka.

Mzati wa 杀青: njira zisanu zotenthetsera

Ndiyeno njira yochitira shā qīng imakhazikitsa ‘katsindikiro’ ka fungo la tiyi. Uwu ndiwo mzati waukulu womwe umagawira tiyi wobiriwira.

炒青 (chǎo qīng) — wokazingidwa m’mbiya. Tsamba limatenthedwa m’mbiya kapena ng’oma yotentha kwambiri. Limapereka fungo lodziwika la guō qì (锅气) ndi lì xiāng la mtedza. Iyi n’sukulu ‘yokazinga’, yomwe mitundu yambiri yodziwika yophwadwa ndi yokulungidwa ikuchokera.

烘青 (hōng qīng) — wa ng’anjo. Kutenthedwa ndi mpweya wotentha. Fungo lake n’loyera komanso lopepuka — qīng xiāng (清香). Ndiyeno hōng qīng lǜ chá ndiye maziko a tiyi wokometsedwa ndi jasmini ndi ena: kapangidwe ka tsamba lomasuka kochokera ku ng’anjo kumalandira bwino fungo lamaluwa pa xūn zhì (窨制).

晒青 (shài qīng) — wa dzuwa. Kukhazikika ndi kuumitsa zimachitika padzuwa. Njira iyi imapereka shài qīng máo chá (晒青毛茶) — chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga sheng-pu’er (pǔ ěr shēng). Choncho, tiyi wobiriwira wa dzuwa n’di mlatho wopita ku gulu lina kotheratu.

蒸青 (zhēng qīng) — wa nthunzi. Tsamba limatenthedwa ndi nthunzi. Limasunga kubiriwira kwakukulu ndi kupereka kukoma kwa ndere hǎi tái xiāng (海苔香, ‘chomera cha m’nyanja’). Ku China, sukulu iyi ndi ya ēn shī yù lù (恩施玉露); njira yomweyi ndiyo maziko a sencha ya ku Japan (煎茶).

半烘炒 (bàn hōng chǎo) — wophatikiza. Kuphatikiza kutenthetsa kwa ng’anjo ndi mbiya, kumapatsa mbiri yapakatikati pakati pa qīng xiāng yoyera ndi guō qì yowoneka bwino.

Mzati wa maonekedwe: zomwe 做形 zimachita

Ngati shā qīng imayika fungo, ndiye zuò xíng (做形) imayika maonekedwe — mzati wachiwiri wofunikira wa gululi. Zitsanzo zingapo za njira ndi zotsatira zake:

• huī guō (辉锅) → maonekedwe ophwadwa (扁), monga lóng jǐng;
• cuō tuán (搓团) → chozungulira (螺), monga bì luó chūn (碧螺春);
• lǐ tiáo (理条) → singano (针);
• lā lǎo huǒ (拉老火) → chidutswa-mphale (片), monga guā piàn (瓜片).

Kwa mitundu ina yosakhwima — mwachitsanzo, tài píng hóu kuí (太平猴魁) — kupanga maonekedwe n’kochepa, tsamba limangosungidwa pafupifupi monga momwe lilili.

Mitundu yonse ya maonekedwe a tiyi wobiriwira: ophwadwa / chozungulira / singano / monga orchid (兰花) / chidutswa / ‘duwa’ (朵) / chozungulira chofanana ndi ngale (颗粒珠) / ‘nsidze’ (眉).

Kulumikizana ndi magulu ena

Tiyi wobiriwira n’gulu lofunikira kwambiri pa kayendetsedwe ka misonkho ya tiyi ku China, ndipo mabanja ambiri oyandikira amachokera kwa iwo:

• 晒青毛茶 (tiyi wobiriwira wa dzuwa) → chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga sheng-pu’er;
• 烘青绿茶 (tiyi wobiriwira wa ng’anjo) → maziko a tiyi wa jasmini ndi ena okometsedwa kudzera xūn zhì;
• 蒸青 (wa nthunzi) → mlatho waumisiri ku tiyi wobiriwira waku Japan;
• 黄茶 (tiyi wachikaso) = wobiriwira kuphatikiza gawo lowonjezera la mèn huáng (闷黄, ‘kufowoketsa kufikira mtundu wachikaso’).

Kumvetsetsa kulumikizana kumeneku kumathandiza kuwona kuti malire a magulu sakukhudzana ndi mmera, koma ndi umisiri.

Momwe Mungasiyanitsire Pakuchita

Kuti ‘muwerenge’ tiyi wobiriwira, ndikokwanira kukhala ndi ndondomekoyi m’maganizo: fungo = mtundu (品种) × 杀青 × nyengo yokolola × terroir.

• Ngati masamba owuma ndi madzi a tiyi ali ndi kamvekedwe kokazinga, ka mtedza ndi ‘kutentha kwa mbiya’ — ndiye muli ndi chǎo qīng.
• Fungo loyera, lopepuka laudzu-maluwa la qīng xiāng lopanda kupsa limasonyeza hōng qīng (ndipo nthawi zambiri — tiyi yemwe ndi maziko a kukometsa).
• Fungo lowala, pafupifupi la ndere zam’nyanja — ndi chizindikiro cha zhēng qīng, sukulu ya nthunzi.
• Kamvekedwe kachilendo, ‘ka dzuwa’ kazinthu zowuma zingatanthauze shài qīng — kholo la pu’er.

Kutsopano kumayesedwa ndi kukhalanso ndi moyo kwa mtundu wobiriwira wa madzi a tiyi ndi kuwonekera kwa xiān shuǎng: mtundu wosasangalatsa ndi kukoma kosalala, ‘kophikidwa’ ndi chizindikiro chakuti tiyi wataya unyamata wake. Kumbukirani: ku gulu lobiriwira, ukalamba ndi chilema, osati ubwino.

Zogwirizana: mizati ya maonekedwe (做形), gudumu la fungo, tiyi wobiriwira waku Japan, tiyi wachikaso, ndi pu’er.