lǎo pǐn zhǒng lǎo shù sōng zhēn

Lao Pinzhong Laoshu Songzhen (老品种老树松针) ndi tiyi wofiira waku China (红茶, hóngchá), dzina lake limatanthauzira mwachindunji mikhalidwe yake itatu yodziwika: mtundu wakale wa cultivar (老品种, lǎo pǐnzhǒng), mitengo yakale ya tiyi (老树, lǎoshù) ndi mawonekedwe a “singano ya paini” (松针, sōngzhēn). Iri si dzina la malo komanso si mtundu wina wa botanical, koma kalembedwe ka tiyi wothira okisijeni kwathunthu, kumene masamba amapotedwa ndi kutambasulidwa kukhala singano zowonda, zowongoka, zofanana ndi masamba a paini. Zopangira ndi masamba ang’onoang’ono (fleshi) ochokera ku tchire ndi mitengo yakalekale ya mitundu yachikhalidwe, yosankhidwa mwapadera. Tiyi woteroyu amakhala m’gulu la tiyi wofiira wapamwamba wa masamba athunthu (工夫红茶, gōngfu hóngchá) ndipo amayamikiridwa chifukwa cha kukoma kwake kofewa, kotsekemera kopanda kuwawa kowopsa, komwe kumadziwika ndi zinthu zochokera ku zomera zakale.

1. Magulu ndi Chiyambi:

Mtundu: tiyi wofiira, wothira okisijeni kwathunthu — 红茶 (hóngchá).
Gulu laling’ono: tiyi wofiira wa masamba athunthu — 工夫红茶 (gōngfu hóngchá); ku China gulu ili limafotokozedwa ndi muyezo wadziko wa mndandanda wa GB/T 13738 (gawo lopatulidwa ku tiyi wofiira wa gongfu).
Mawonekedwe: “singano ya paini,” 松针 (sōngzhēn) — singano zowonda, zowongoka, zopotedwa mwamphamvu.
Zopangira: mitundu yakale (老品种) yochokera ku mitengo yakalekale (老树).
Chiyambi: dzinali silimangirizidwa ku chigawo china chilichonse.

Mawu oti 松针 amasonyeza mawonekedwe, osati malo. M’mbiri, kuwumba kwa singano kumadziwika kwambiri ndi tiyi wobiriwira wa Anhua Songzhen (安化松针, Ānhuà sōngzhēn) wochokera m’chigawo cha Hunan; pambuyo pake njirayi inagwiritsidwanso ntchito pa tiyi wofiira. Kugogomezera pa “mtundu wakale” ndi “mitengo yakale” kumadziwika ndi minda ya masamba akuluakulu m’chigawo cha Yunnan (云南, Yúnnán), komanso mitundu yochokera ku njere (群体种, qúntǐzhǒng; 菜茶, càichá) ku Fujian (福建, Fújiàn), Guizhou (贵州, Guìzhōu) ndi Hunan (湖南, Húnán). Popanda kutchula wopanga, chigawo chenicheni sichingadziwike ndi dzina lokhalo.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Kwawo kwa tiyi wofiira: China; tiyi wofiira woyamba amayenera kuti ndi Zhengshan Xiaozhong (正山小种, Zhèngshān xiǎozhǒng) wochokera kudera la Wuyishan, yemwe anayamba m’zaka za m’ma 1500-1600.
Tiyi wofiira wa Gongfu: nthambi yapambuyo pake; makamaka, Dianhong waku Yunnan (滇红, Diānhóng) anapangidwa kumapeto kwa zaka za m’ma 1930 m’boma la Fengqing (凤庆, Fèngqìng) motsogozedwa ndi Feng Shaoqiu (冯绍裘, Féng Shàoqiú).
Mawonekedwe a singano: mmodzi mwa tiyi waku China woyamba wa singano anali Anhua Songzhen wobiriwira, yemwe anakhazikika kumapeto kwa zaka za m’ma 1950.

Kalembedwe ka “mtundu wakale, mtengo wakale, singano ya paini” ndi chochitika chamasiku ano. Kanakhazikika m’zaka za m’ma 2000-2010 pa nthawi ya kukwera kwa tiyi wofiira wapamwamba waku China ndi chidwi chonse pa mitengo yakale, chochokera ku chikhalidwe cha pu’er. Malinga ndi chikhalidwe, mankhwalawa amasonyeza zizolowezi ziwiri: kubwerera ku mitundu yachikhalidwe yochokera ku njere, kutsutsana ndi kulima kwamakono kwa mtundu umodzi, ndi kutengerapo njira zovuta za kuwumba, zomwe poyamba zinali za tiyi wobiriwira, kupita ku gawo la tiyi wofiira.

3. Malongosoledwe a Botanical ndi Zopangira:

Mtundu: Camellia sinensis.
Mitundu yosiyanasiyana: malinga ndi chigawo — ya masamba akuluakulu var. assamica (大叶种, dàyèzhǒng) kumwera chakumadzulo kapena ya masamba ang’ono ndi apakati var. sinensis m’minda yakale yochokera ku njere.
Mtundu wa cultivar (老品种): mitundu yochokera ku njere yosankhidwa — 群体种 (qúntǐzhǒng), 菜茶 (càichá); mwa mitundu yodziwika ya masamba akuluakulu — Yúnnán dàyèzhǒng (云南大叶种), Měngkù dàyèzhǒng (勐库大叶种), Fèngqìng dàyèzhǒng (凤庆大叶种).
Zaka za zomera (老树): zaka makumi angapo; mawu oti «老» nthawi zambiri amatanthauza zinthu zazing’ono kuposa «古树» (gǔshù, mitengo ya zaka zana ndi kuposerapo).
Kusonkha: mphukira ndi masamba amodzi kapena awiri; pa mawonekedwe a singano, amakonda zopangira zofewa, zolemera ndi mphukira.

Mitundu yochokera ku njere si yofanana mwachibadwa, zomwe zimapereka madzi owirira ovuta, a “magulu ambiri”. Zomera zazikuluzikulu zokhala ndi mizu yotukuka nthawi zambiri zimapereka biochemistry yofanana bwino ndi kukoma kokhazikika, kotsekemera koma zokolola zochepa.

4. Malo ndi Mikhalidwe ya Kulima:

Malo: makamaka minda ya m’mapiri ndi yotsetsereka yokhala ndi zomera zosakanikirana.
Kutalika: kumadalira chigawo; ku Yunnan nthawi zambiri 1000–2000 m ndi kupitirira, kumadera akum’mawa kumakhala kotsika.
Njira zaulimi: zosakhwimitsa, ndi kusakaniza kochepa kwa mankhwala; mitengo yakale, makamaka, siidulidwa mwamphamvu.
Kufalitsa: mitundu yakale nthawi zambiri imachokera ku njere, chifukwa chake tchire ndi madzi owirira amakhala osiyanasiyana.

Malo enieni ndi kutalika kwa kalembedwe aka sikungatchulidwe, popeza sikamangirizidwa ku famu imodzi; mikhalidwe ya malo imatsimikiziridwa ndi munda weniweni wa wopanga.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

Kusonkha (采摘, cǎizhāi): pamanja, mosamala, kusunga umphumphu wa masamba ang’onoang’ono.
Kufota (萎凋, wěidiāo): kuchepetsa chinyezi ndi kukonzekera masamba kuti apotedwe.
Kupota (揉捻, róuniǎn): kuwononga maselo, kuyambitsa kuthira okisijeni.
Kuthira okisijeni (发酵, fājiào): kwathunthu — siteji yofunika kwambiri pa tiyi wofiira; imapanga mtundu ndi mbiri ya kukoma.
Kuwumba-kutambasula (理条 / 做形, lǐtiáo / zuòxíng): kupereka mawonekedwe a singano.
Kuyanika (干燥, gānzào; 烘干, hōnggān): kukhazikitsa mawonekedwe ndi chinyezi.

Opareshoni yosiyanitsa ya kalembedwe aka ndi 理条 (lǐtiáo), kuwongola ndi kutambasula masamba a tiyi kukhala singano zowonda, zowongoka. Imachitidwa pamanja kapena ndi makina apadera (理条机, lǐtiáojī) panthawi kapena pambuyo pa kupota, kuyanika komaliza kusanachitike. Opareshoni imeneyi imafuna kulondola kwakukulu ndi ntchito yambiri yamanja, popeza kuwumba kosafanana kumaonekera nthawi yomweyo mu tiyi womalizidwa.

6. Mikhalidwe ya Organoleptic:

Maonekedwe (外形, wàixíng): singano zowongoka, zowonda, zothina za mtundu wa bulauni woderapo, nthawi zambiri zokhala ndi tinthu tating’onoting’ono ta mphukira zagolide (金毫, jīnháo).
Madzi owirira (汤色, tāngsè): kuchokera ku lalanje wagolide mpaka wofiira wa amber, wowonekera bwino.
Fungo (香气, xiāngqì): zonunkhira za uchi, zamaluwa ndi zipatso (zipatso zouma, mbatata yowotcha); pa zinthu zochokera ku mitengo yakale kumawonjezeredwa kuzama ndi “kununkhira kwa mtengo” kofewa, nthawi zina kununkhira kwa chimera.
Kukoma (滋味, zīwèi): kofewa, kotsekemera, kokhazikika, ndi kukoma kobwerera kotalika (回甘, huígān); kuwawa kumakhala kochepa.
Pansi pa tiyi (叶底, yèdǐ): wofiira wa mkuwa, wotanuka, wofanana.

7. Zomwe Zili M’thupi:

Theaflavins (茶黄素, cháhuángsù) ndi thearubigins (茶红素, cháhóngsù): zopangidwa kuchokera ku okisijeni ya ma catechin, zimatsimikizira mtundu, kunyezimira ndi “thupi” la madzi owirira; pa okisijeni wozama kwambiri pamawunjikana theabrownins (茶褐素, cháhèsù).
Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): pafupifupi 2–4% ya kulemera kowuma.
Polyphenols (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): osinthidwa pang’ono panthawi ya okisijeni.
Ma amino acid (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān, L-theanine ndi ena): amapereka kutsekemera ndi kamvedwe ka “umami”.
Ma polysaccharides ndi mchere.

Miyeso yeniyeni imadalira mtundu ndi chigawo: zinthu zamasamba akuluakulu za var. assamica nthawi zambiri zimakhala zolemera ndi polyphenols ndi caffeine kuposa mitundu yamasamba ang’ono. Ziwerengero zenizeni za kalembedwe aka zimasiyanasiyana, chifukwa chake n’zomveka kuziona ngati mizere.

8. Zopindulitsa:

Mkhalidwe malinga ndi maganizo achikhalidwe: tiyi wothira okisijeni kwathunthu amawonedwa ngati “wofunditsa” (温, wēn) ndi wofewa m’mimba poyerekeza ndi wobiriwira.
Ma antioxidant: theaflavins ndi thearubigins amagwirizanitsidwa ndi ntchito ya antioxidant.
Kusangalatsa: kochepa, chifukwa cha caffeine; kulolerana kumadalira munthu.
Kufunditsa ndi kugayitsa chakudya: kagwiritsidwe kachikhalidwe ka madzi owirira ofunditsa pambuyo pa chakudya.

Zopindulitsa zatchulidwazi ndi zanthawi zonse ndipo si upangiri wa zamankhwala; ngati mukumva kuwawa ndi caffeine, n’koyenera kuganizira mphamvu ndi nthawi yowiritsa.

9. Kuwiritsa:

Chida: gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) kapena mbiya ya porcelain; kuti mukhale ndi thupi lolimba, mbiya ya dothi la Yixing (紫砂, zǐshā) ndi yoyenera.
Mlingo (gongfu): pafupifupi 5 g pa 100–120 ml.
Mlingo (njira ya ku Europe): 3–4 g pa 300 ml.
Kutentha kwa madzi: 90–95 °C; zinthu zolimba zochokera ku mitengo yakale zimalola 95–100 °C.
Kutsuka: kutsuka pang’ono mwachidule mwakufuna kwanu.
Kutsanulira (gongfu): koyamba 5–10 sekondi, kenaka ndikuwonjezera pang’onopang’ono; kumapirira kutsanulira 8–12.
Kuwiritsa (njira ya ku Europe): 3–4 mphindi.

Mawonekedwe a singano amatseguka pang’onopang’ono. Madzi otentha kwambiri pa masamba a mphukira zofewa amatha kuwonjezera kuwawa kosafunikira, chifukwa chake pa zinthu zofewa amayamba ndi kutentha kotsika; zinthu zochokera ku mitengo yakale, makamaka, zimalola bwino madzi otentha ndipo zimatulutsa kutsekemera kwathunthu.

10. Kusunga:

Chidebe: chotsekeka, chosaonekera mkati.
Mikhalidwe: kuwuma, kusowa kwa fungo lachilendo, kutetezedwa ku kuwala, kutentha kwa m’nyumba.
Nyengo: n’kwabwino mkati mwa zaka 1–2; tiyi wofiira wa gongfu wapamwamba amasungabe mkhalidwe wake mpaka zaka 2–3, ndikufewetsa pang’ono m’miyezi yoyamba.
Zoyenera kuganizira: si tiyi wosungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali, monga pu’er kapena woyera; m’kupita kwa nthawi fungo limatha, ndipo pa chinyezi chochuluka pamawonekera fungo la m’chikuto.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonyenga:

Matanthauzo oti “mtundu wakale” ndi “mtengo wakale” ndi ovuta kutsimikizira, ndipo makamaka awa ndiwo amakweza mtengo. Kuchuluka kwenikweni kwa zinthu zochokera ku mitengo yakale n’kochepa, pamene kuperekedwa kwa msika kwa tiyi wa “mitengo yakale” kumakhala kokulirapo kwambiri. Mitundu ya mitengo ndi yotakata: tiyi wamba wa singano wofiira wochokera ku zinthu wamba ndi wotsika mtengo, pamene magulu ang’onoang’ono ochokera ku minda yotsimikiziridwa amawononga ndalama zambiri; kutchula ndalama zenizeni popanda kutchula wopanga wake sikungakhale koyenera.

Njira zofala zosokonezera: kugulitsa tiyi wochokera ku minda yamakono ya clones ngati “mtundu wakale” kapena “mtengo wakale”; mawonekedwe a singano opangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu wamba ndi kuwonetsedwa ngati apamwamba; nthawi zina — kuthira fungo kapena kutsekemetsa.

Zoyenera kuziganizira:

Fungo: lachilengedwe, lopanda kumveka kopanga mwachiza la “karamelosi-maswiti”.
Masamba: singano zofanana, zathunthu; tinthu tating’onoting’ono ta golide ndi zachilengedwe, osati zopakidwa utoto.
Madzi owirira: thupi lokhazikika, 回甘 (huígān) wotalika ndi kukhalitsa pa kutsanulira kambiri ndi zizindikiro za zinthu zapamwamba.
Pansi pa tiyi: wofanana, wotanuka, wopanda zidutswa zambiri.
Nzeru: tiyi wa “mitengo yakale” wotsika mtengo mokayikitsa nthawi zambiri sikhala woterodi; n’kodalirika kugula kwa ogulitsa okonzeka kutchula chiyambi.

12. Zinthu Zosangalatsa:

Dzina loti 松针 (sōngzhēn) limasonyeza mawonekedwe — singano yowonda — osati malo.
Opareshoni ya 理条 (lǐtiáo) imapangitsa kalembedwe kukhala kovutirapo: kuwumba kosafanana kumaonekera nthawi yomweyo, chifukwa chake gawo la ntchito yamanja ndi lalikulu.
«老品种» imatsutsana ndi mitundu yamakono ya clone ndipo imagwirizanitsidwa ndi kayendedwe ka kusunga mitundu yakale yochokera ku njere.
Mawonekedwe a singano anabwera ku tiyi waku China makamaka kudzera mu Anhua Songzhen wobiriwira; pa tiyi wofiira njirayi inatengedwa pambuyo pake.
«老树» ndi «古树» si mawu ofanana: ndi mlingo wa malonda wa zaka za zomera, pamene “mtengo wakale” nthawi zambiri umakhala wochepa kuposa “mtengo wakale kwambiri”.

Pomaliza:

Lao Pinzhong Laoshu Songzhen si mtundu wina wakale wokhala ndi malo okhazikika, koma kalembedwe kamakono ka tiyi wofiira waku China, kamene kamaphatikiza malingaliro atatu: mtundu wachikhalidwe wochokera ku njere, zomera zazikuluzikulu ndi kuwumba kovutirapo kwa singano. Ubwino wake — kukoma kotsekemera kofewa, thupi lokhazikika ndi kukhalitsa kwabwino kwa madzi owirira — makamaka kumatsimikiziridwa ndi mtundu wa zinthu zoyambirira ndi kulondola kwa kuwongola kwa masamba a tiyi, osati dzina laphokoso.

Kuyandikira tiyi woteroyo mwanzeru ndikumvetsetsa mosamala: kuyesa fungo, kukoma, kutsekemera kobwerera ndi pansi pa tiyi, ndikuwona mopendekera malonjezo a “mtundu wakale” ndi “mtengo wakale”, potsata mbiri ya wopanga ndi kuwonekera kwa chiyambi. Mukawiritsa moyenera ndi kusunga bwino, uyu ndi woimira wabwino wa tiyi wofiira wapamwamba wa gongfu, wosangalatsa makamaka chifukwa cha kuphatikiza kwa zinthu zochokera ku cholowa ndi mawonekedwe omveka bwino.

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