Bì luó chūn

碧螺春 (bì luó chūn) ndi imodzi mwa tiyi wobiriwira wodziwika bwino kwambiri ku China: masamba opindika molimba ngati kaukhala, okutidwa ndi ubweya wonyezimira wa siliva, komanso kusakaniza fungo la maluwa ndi zipatso, limene akatswiri am’deralo amafotokoza ndi mawu akuti ‘kufewa kumodzi, kutsitsimuka katatu’. Bi Luo Chun weniweni amachokera kokha kudera laling’ono la nyanja ya Taihu pafupi ndi Suzhou, ndipo mfundo imeneyi ndiyo maziko a mbiri yonse ya khalidwe lake ndi zachinyengo.

1. Magulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: tiyi wobiriwira wokazinga pamanja mu wok (炒青绿茶).
• Gulu: tiyi wopota wa mawonekedwe a ‘卷曲螺形’ (akupota ngati kaukhala).
• Chiyambi: mapiri a Dongting (洞庭) m’boma la Wuzhong (吴中) mumzinda wa Suzhou, m’chigawo cha Jiangsu. Limeneli si malo amodzi, koma madera awiri — phiri lakum’mawa la Dongshan (东山), chilumba chodutsa m’nyanja ya Taihu, ndi phiri lakumadzulo la Xishan (西山), lomwe tsopano limadziwika kuti Jinting (金庭), chilumba chenicheni.
• Muyezo: 东山碧螺春 — wothyoledwa ndi manja chisanafike Chikondwerero cha Qingming (明前), gulu lapamwamba kwambiri (特级); ndiwomwe umakhazikitsa muyezo woweruzira ena onse.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Bi Luo Chun ndi imodzi mwa tiyi odziwika a mbiri yakale (名茶) a mapiri a Dongting; malinga ndi nthano, poyamba ankadziwika ndi dzina lochititsa chidwi la anthu wamba limene linkasonyeza mphamvu ya fungo lake, ndipo dzina lapamwamba lakuti ‘碧螺春’ — ‘maukhala obiriwira a m’chaka’ — linakhazikitsidwa ndi Mfumu Kangxi (康熙) paulendo wake wakumwera. Mosasamala kanthu za tsatanetsatane wa nthanoyi, tiyiyi analowa mokhazikika m’gulu la tiyi wobiriwira wamtengo wapatali wa Jiangnan ndipo anakhala chizindikiro cha dziko la nyanja la Suzhou.

M’gulu la tiyi odziwika a Jiangsu, Bi Luo Chun ali ndi malo apadera monga chitsanzo cha mawonekedwe opindika; pambali pake pali tiyi opangidwa mwanjira zosiyana — 雨花茶 (yǔ huā chá) wa ku Nanjing wooneka ngati singano ya paini, 阳羡雪芽 (yáng xiàn xuě yá) wa ku Yixing, womwe unkayimbidwa kale ndi Su Shi, tiyi athyathyathya a ku Changzhou ndi Zhenjiang. Pachiyambi chimenechi, ndi mawonekedwe opindika ngati kaukhala ndi ubweya wochuluka zomwe zimapangitsa Bi Luo Chun kukhala wodziwika nthawi yomweyo.

3. Kufotokozera kwa Zomera ndi Zopangira:

• Mtundu: Bi Luo Chun weniweni amapangidwa kuchokera ku mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya m’deralo — 洞庭群体种 (dòngtíng qúntǐzhǒng), mtundu wakale womwe umabzalidwa kuchokera ku mbewu, wosankhidwa kwa zaka mazana ambiri ku mapiri a Dongting.
• Tsamba: mitengo iyi imatulutsa tsamba laling’ono, la ubweya wochuluka kwambiri lokhala ndi fungo labwino; ndi ubweya woyera wochulukawu (白毫) umene uli maziko a ubweya wodziwika bwino wa tiyi womalizidwa.
• Maziko a Mitundu: m’magulu otsika mtengo a GI-zone, mitundu yabwino yosakanizidwa (良种) ndiyo imaloledwa, koma khalidwe lomwe limayembekezeredwa limagwirizanitsidwa ndi mtundu wa gulu limodzi.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

Nyengo yapadera ya pachilumba ndi pa chilumba chodutsa, nyengo yozizira yochepa, chinyezi chambiri ndi kuwala kwa dzuwa kofalikira pamwamba pa madzi zimalenga mikhalidwe yomwe imathandiza masamba ang’onoang’ono kukula pang’onopang’ono komanso kukhala ndi fungo labwino.

Chikhalidwe chachikulu cha terroir ndi kubzalidwa kosakanikirana: mitengo ya tiyi imamera yosakanikirana ndi mitengo ya zipatso (mushmola, apurikoti, pichesi, ma plums, mandarini). Mizu imalukirana, pamwamba pamatulutsa mthunzi, ndipo maluwa ndi zipatso zazing’ono zomwe zimatuluka m’chaka zimadzaza mlengalenga ndi fungo. Kuchokera pano pamachokera fungo lodziwika bwino la ‘花果香’ — fungo la maluwa ndi zipatso, lomwe mu Bi Luo Chun weniweni wa Dongting limamveka ngati lachilengedwe, osati lowonjezeredwa.

5. Luso la Kupanga:

Bi Luo Chun ndi 炒青绿茶, tiyi wobiriwira wokazinga pamanja mu wok, ndipo mawonekedwe ake a ‘卷曲螺形’ (akupota ngati kaukhala) ndi zotsatira zenizeni za ntchito ya manja. Ndondomeko ya magawo ndi yodziwika bwino: 杀青 (kuimiritsa ubiriwira ndi wok wotentha), 揉捻 (kupota), 搓团显毫 (kusisita kukhala timagulu kuti ubweya uwonekere) ndi 炒干 (kuumitsa). Zonsezi zimachitika mu wok imodzi, popanda kupuma, malinga ndi mfundo yomwe akatswiri amafotokoza kuti ‘dzanja silichoka pa tiyi, tiyi sachoka mu wok, mukupota muli kukazinga, mukukazinga muli kupota’.

Gawo la 搓团显毫 — kusisita ndi zikwanja tsamba lonyowa kukhala timagulu tating’ono — kumapangitsa masamba ang’onoang’ono kupindika mokhazikika ngati kaukhala ndipo ‘kumakweza’ ubweya wa siliva pamwamba. Kuchokera pano pamachokera mawonekedwe ake apadera: tating’ono, topindika molimba kwambiri, tating’ono ta ubweya, timene othyola ndi amalonda amatcha mofanizira ‘蜜蜂腿’ — ‘miyendo ya njuchi’.

6. Makhalidwe a Kakomedwe ndi Fungo:

Khalidwe la Bi Luo Chun weniweni mwamwambo limafotokozedwa ndi mawu akuti ‘一嫩三鲜’ (yī nèn sān xiān) — ‘kufewa kumodzi, kutsitsimuka katatu’.

• 一嫩 — kufewa kwa zopangira. Masamba ang’onoang’ono amathyoledwa pamene adakali ang’ono kwambiri, ofanana kukula; gulu lambiri, ndipamenenso zopangirazo zimakhala ‘zazing’ono’ ndi zofewa kwambiri. Ndiko kufewa kwa zopangira komwe kumapereka mwayi wopindika tiyi kukhala kaukhala wolimba ndi kuwerengera masamba ang’onoang’ono zikwi makumi ambiri pa jin imodzi.
• 三鲜 — kutsitsimuka katatu: kutsitsimuka kwa mtundu (色鲜) — wobiriwira wa siliva wokhala ndi kachidontho kakang’ono ka mtundu wa emerald wocheperako, m’mawu okhazikika ‘银绿隐翠’; kutsitsimuka kwa fungo (香鲜) — fungo lamphamvu la maluwa ndi zipatso; kutsitsimuka kwa kakomedwe (味鲜) — kakomedwe koyera, kofewa, kotsekemera kozama kopanda mkwiyo.

Mawu amenewa si malonda okha, koma njira yoyesera: ngati zopangirazo sizinali zofewa mokwanira kapena tiyi wapangidwa kunja kwa nyengo komanso kunja kwa dera, ‘kutsitsimuka katatu’ sikungakhalepo pamodzi.

Tsamba louma — tazing’ono tobiriwira za siliva topindika mozungulira ndi ubweya woyera wandiweyani, ndi fungo lofewa la maluwa ndi zipatso. Madzi ake ndi opepuka, obiriwira momveka bwino; kakomedwe kake — kutsitsimuka kofewa, kutsekemera kofatsa ndi kakomedwe kotalika ka maluwa ndi zipatso pambuyo pomwe.

9. Kukonza:

Chifukwa chakuti masamba ang’onoang’ono ndi aang’ono, olemera komanso okutidwa ndi ubweya wochuluka kwambiri, Bi Luo Chun mwamwambo amakonzedwa ndi njira ya ‘kuyika pamwamba’ (上投法): choyamba amathira madzi mu kapu yagalasi pa kutentha kwa pafupifupi 75–80 °C, kenako ndi kuthira tiyi pamwamba. Bi Luo Chun weniweni wagulu lapamwamba amamira pansi mofulumira, akumadzitambasula akumapita pansi, — izi ndi zosangalatsa kuwonera, komanso ndi njira ina yowonera ngati zopangirazo zinali zofewa. Galasi ndiloyenera: limathandiza kuwona ‘kuvina’ kwa masamba ang’onoang’ono akumira pansi ndi kuyesa kuyera kwa madzi a tiyi.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonamizira:

Bi Luo Chun amatetezedwa ngati chinthu chokhala ndi chisonyezero cha dera: tiyi amene amatengedwa ngati weniweni ndi wochokera kokha kudera lochokera la Dongting mu boma la Wuzhong. Muyezo wadziko umawagawanitsa m’magulu angapo a khalidwe — lapadera (特级, logawanikanso m’magulu a oyamba ndi achiwiri), loyamba, lachiwiri ndi lachitatu. Pamene gulu likukwera, ndipamenenso zopangirazo zimakhala zofewa kwambiri ndipo masamba ochuluka amafunika pa muyeso umodzi wa kulemera:

• 特级 (明前, wothyoledwa ndi manja) — mulingo wapamwamba: pafupifupi masamba ang’onoang’ono 60,000–70,000 pa jin (500 g). Ili ndiye gulu la 顶级, Dongshan Bi Luo Chun weniweni.
• 西山碧螺春 明前 — gulu lapamwamba: nyengo ya pachilumba, fungo lodziwika la maluwa ndi zipatso.
• 一级 (明前–谷雨) — gulu lapakati: masamba ocheperako, mtengo wotsika, koma akadali ochokera ku GI-zone.
• 三级 (pafupi ndi 谷雨) — Bi Luo Chun wamba ‘wa kumwa tsiku ndi tsiku’ (口粮) wochokera ku GI-zone, wopangidwa kuchokera ku zopangira zolimba komanso mitundu ina.

Payokha pali zomwe zimagulitsidwa ngati ‘碧螺春’ kunja kwa boma la Wuzhong — m’madera ena a Jiangsu ndi kupyolera. Mwalamulo izi ndi ‘碧螺春-style’ malinga ndi maonekedwe a tsamba, koma osati chisonyezero cha dera; ndipamene pali msampha waukulu wa msika.

Momwe mungasiyanitsire chonamizira:

• Chiyambi. Weniweni — wochokera kokha kudera la Dongting (Dongshan/Xishan-Jinting) m’boma la Wuzhong, Suzhou. ‘碧螺春’ yonenedwa kuchokera ku madera ena, ndi kalembedwe ka maonekedwe, osati chisonyezero cha dera.
• Ubweya ndi mtundu. Ubweya weniweni ndi woyera wa siliva, ndipo kamvekedwe kake konse ka tsamba louma ndi ‘银绿隐翠’, wobiriwira wa siliva wokhala ndi mtundu wa emerald wocheperako. Maonekedwe obiriwira kwambiri modutsa muyeso, ngati ‘opakidwa utoto’ ndi chisonyezo chosautsa cha kupakidwa utoto.
• Maonekedwe. ‘Miyendo ya njuchi’ (蜜蜂腿) yaing’ono, yopindika molimba kwambiri yokhala ndi tsamba laling’ono; maukhalidwe akulu, osalimba kapena akuluakulu amasonyeza zopangira zotsika kapena chonamizira.
• Fungo. Fungo lachilengedwe la maluwa ndi zipatso, osati lonunkhira mokokomeza. Fungo lachilendo lamphamvu ‘lonunkhiritsidwa’ ndi lokayikitsa.
• Khalidwe m’madzi. Mwa njira yoyika pamwamba, tiyi wagulu lapamwamba amamira pansi mofulumira; masamba akuluakulu ‘olendewera’ amasonyeza zinthu zina.
• Nyengo ndi gulu. Kunenedwa kwa 明前 特级 pa mtengo wotsika mokayikitsa pafupifupi nthawi zonse kumatanthauza zopangira zakunja kwa nyengo, kapena tiyi wochokera kunja kwa GI-zone.

12. Mfundo Zochititsa Chidwi:

Pophatikiza zonse: Bi Luo Chun weniweni wa Dongting ndi kugwirizana kwa malo (mapiri a nyanja ya Taihu), mtundu (洞庭群体种), kupangidwa koyamba m’nyengo mwaluso ndi manja ndi kutsitsimuka katatu ka mtundu, fungo ndi kakomedwe. Pomwe chimodzi mwa zinthu izi chikusowa, zomwe muli nazo ndi ‘碧螺春-style’, koma osati muyezo wa Dongting.