méichá

Zhēnméi (zhēnméi 珍眉) ndiye tiyi wamkulu wobiriwira wotumizidwa kunja kwa China, masamba aatali a mtundu wa chǎoqīng (炒青, woikidwa pawokha pan), dzina lake limatanthauzira mwachindunji kupotoka ngati nsidze. Mozungulira iye kuli dongosolo lonse la magiredi a malonda — kuchokera pamtundu wapamwamba tèzhēn kufikira ku xiùméi wotsalira — yomwe yakhala ikudyetsa misika ya Kumpoto ndi Kumadzulo kwa Africa kwa zaka zambiri.

Chiyambi ndi chigawo (Terroir)

Kwawo kwa měichá (眉茶) ndi lotchedwa “triangle yobiriwira” pamalire a zigawo zitatu: Zhejiang, Anhui ndi Jiangxi (浙皖赣三角). Apa ndipamene chikhalidwe cha tiyi wobiriwira waatali, wachǎoqīng, cháng chǎoqīng (长炒青) chinakhazikitsidwa, ndipo kuchokera pamenepo, pambuyo pa kuwongolera, mitundu yonse ya magiredi a nsidze imapezeka.

M’chigawo ichi, mayina amalonda am’madera adakhazikika m’mbiri, makamaka akutanthauza komwe měichá akuchokera:

• Túnlǜ (túnlǜ 屯绿) — kuchokera ku Anhui, m’dera la Tunxi/Xiuning (屯溪/休宁); ndi mtundu wa mbiri yakale wotumizidwa kunja wa tiyi wa Huizhou, wokumbukiridwa mu ndakatulo ya “qíhóng túnlǜ” (祁红屯绿) — “Qimen wofiira ndi wobiriwira wa Tunxi”.
• Wùlǜ (wùlǜ 婺绿) ndi Ráolǜ (ráolǜ 饶绿) — kuchokera ku Jiangxi, m’maboma a Wuyuan/Shangrao (婺源/上饶); za tiyi wakomweko amati “chá bù dào wùyuán bù xiāng” (茶不到婺源不香) — “tiyi samanunkhira bwino mpaka atafika ku Wuyuan”. Lero m’derali ndi lodziwika popereka tiyi wobiriwira wa organic ku EU.
• Suìlǜ / Hánglǜ / Wēnlǜ (suìlǜ / hánglǜ / wēnlǜ 遂绿/杭绿/温绿) — mayina a malonda aakulu a měichá a ku Zhejiang.

Kunja kwa triangle imeneyi, tiyi wobiriwira wa chǎoqīng waatali pansi pa mayina a zigawo (xiānglǜ, èlǜ, qiánlǜ, yùlǜ, shūlǜ — 湘绿/鄂绿/黔绿/豫绿/舒绿) amapangidwira msika wakunyumba komanso kutumizidwa kunja.

Zopangira ndi mtundu wa kakonzedwe

Maziko a msinkhu wonsewu ndi máochá (毛茶) — tiyi wosakonzedwa wa mtundu wa chǎoqīng waatali. Mbiri yake imakhazikitsa khalidwe la magiredi onse obwera pambuyo pake: kupotoka kwa ulusi ngati nsidze (条索如眉), mtundu wobiriwira wa mafuta pamasamba (绿润), kununkhira kwa chestnut (栗香, lìxiāng) ndi mankhwala okhuthala, odzaza (醇厚).

Kupanga kumagawidwa m’magawo awiri.

Kukonza koyamba (chūzhì 初制) kumapereka máochá: kukhazikitsa-kuwotcha (kill-green), kupota ndi kuumitsa ndi njira yowotcha yotentha, zomwe zimapanga mtundu wa cháng chǎoqīng.

Kuwongolera-kuyeretsa (jīngzhì 精制) kumasandutsa máochá wamitundumitundu kukhala magiredi amalonda oyezera. Ntchito zazikulu:

• shāifēn (筛分) — kusefa-kuyeza malinga ndi kukula ndi maonekedwe;
• fēngshàn (风扇) — kupeta mphepo kulekanitsa tinthu tating’ono;
• jiǎntī (拣剔) — kusankha/kuchotsa makoko ndi zolakwika;
• pūhuǒ (扑火) — kuumitsa komaliza ndi moto.

Kusankhidwa kochokera ku tinthu tating’onoting’ono ndi maonekedwe — osati zopangira zosiyana — kumabweretsa magiredi osiyana: máochá womwewo amagawanika kukhala masamba aakulu ofanana, osankhidwa owonda, tinthu tating’onoting’ono topotoka ndi zotsalira zazing’ono.

Msinkhu wa magiredi a tiyi wa “nsidze”

Gulu la měichá limapangidwa ngati mzere wosalekeza kuchokera wapamwamba kupita wapansi:

Tèzhēn (tèzhēn 特珍) — “Special Chunmee”, giredi yapamwamba ya měichá: masamba aakulu kwambiri ndi ofanana a mtundu wa zhēnméi. Amatumizidwa kunja, makamaka ku North ndi West Africa.

Zhēnméi (zhēnméi 珍眉, Chun Mee) — ndi giredi yaikulu yotumizidwa kunja ndi “nkhope” ya gulu lonse. Pansi pa dzina la “Chun Mee”, iyi ndi tiyi wamkulu wobiriwira wa ku China pamsika wa Morocco ndipo mokulirapo — ndi tiyi wamkulu wobiriwira wotumizidwa kunja wa dzikolo.

Fèngméi / zhēnméi-singano (fèngméi / zhēnméi 凤眉/针眉, Sowmee/needle) — giredi yapakati: masamba ocheperako owonda a “nsidze”.

Yǔchá (yǔchá 雨茶, Young Hyson / “tiyi wamvula”) — tinthu tating’onoting’ono topotoka, totayidwa panthawi yowongolera; n’chodabwitsa kuti yǔchá amachokera ku tiyi wa chǎoqīng waatali (眉) komanso wa chǎoqīng wozungulira (珠).

Gòngxī / Xīchūn (gòngxī / xīchūn 贡熙/熙春, Hyson) — giredi ya mbiri: ndendende “熙春/贡熙” m’zaka za zana la 18 idatumizidwa ku Ulaya ngati Hyson, kusiya chidindo mu malamulo achingerezi a mayina a tiyi.

Xiùméi (xiùméi 秀眉, Sowmee) — giredi yapansi: tinthu tating’ono, topepuka.

Pambali pa nsidze iyi palinso “gulu la ngale”: Píngshuǐ Zhūchá (píngshuǐ zhūchá 平水珠茶, Gunpowder) kuchokera ku Pingshui (Shaoxing), Zhejiang. Uwu ndi tiyi wobiriwira wa chǎoqīng wozungulira (yuán chǎoqīng 圆炒青), wopota kukhala tinthu tozungulira ngati ngale — “ngale zobiriwira”, kumadzulo amadziwika ngati “tiyi wa chipolopolo” chifukwa cha maonekedwe ake; amadziwika chifukwa chopirira kutenthedwa kambiri (耐泡) ndi mtundu wa mbiri yakale wa 天坛 (Temple of Heaven). Pothira madzi, zhūchá nayenso amagawanika kukhala magiredi — tiyi weniweni wa ngale, komanso yǔchá ndi xiùméi.

Miyezo ndi malo mu dongosolo

Měichá ndi wa gulu la tiyi wobiriwira wa chǎoqīng waatali, ndipo magiredi ake ndi gawo lovomerezedwa mwalamulo la dongosolo la katundu wotumizidwa kunja wa China, kumene magiredi amatsimikiziridwa ndi zotsatira za kuyeretsa (kuyeza mwa maonekedwe, kukula, ukhondo ndi mlingo wowumitsa ndi moto). Mfundo ya kayendetsedwe ka miyezo pano si kusiyana kwa zopangira, koma kubwerezedwa kwa giredi: wogula ku Casablanca kapena Dakar ayenera kulandira chaka ndi chaka “nsidze” zofanana pansi pa dzina la Chun Mee. (Manambala enieni a GB/T a giredi iliyonse sanatchulidwe pano kuti apewe kupereka deta yosatsimikizirika.)

Kukoma ndi kuphika

Mbiri yaikulu ya měichá imakhazikitsidwa ndi mtundu wa cháng chǎoqīng: kununkhira kwa chestnut, kokazinga (栗香), masamba owuma obiriwira ngati mafuta ndi mankhwala okhuthala, “olimba” (醇厚). Potsika mumsinkhu — kuchokera ku tèzhēn kupita ku xiùméi — masamba amacheperachepera, mankhwalawo amakhala amphamvu komanso osavuta, ndipo m’zotsalira zapansi, kufanana kumatayika.

Kwa machitidwe a tiyi wa ku Morocco, tiyi amawiritsa mwamphamvu, ndi timbewu tonunkhira tambiri ndi shuga, mu ketulo yachitsulo — apa amayamikiridwa kwambiri kulimba kwa mankhwala ndi kukhuthala, osati ma nuances. Kuti ayese khalidwe lenileni la měichá, muyeso wochepa, madzi otentha (koma osati owira mwamphamvu) ndi nthawi yochepa yowiritsa ndi zokwanira: motero kumveka nokha nkhona ya chestnut, kukhuthala kwa thupi, ndi kufanana kwa kupotoka.

Mbiri ndi chikhalidwe

Měichá ndi zhūchá ndiye mizati iwiri ya katundu wobiriwira wotumizidwa kunja wa China. Pansi pa dzina la Hyson “熙春/贡熙” kale m’zaka za zana la 18 inkafika patebulo la ku Ulaya, ndipo m’zaka za zana la 20 “Chun Mee” (zhēnméi) ndi “Gunpowder” (zhūchá ya Pingshui) adakhala zilembo zodziwika bwino zapadziko lonse, makamaka pa misika ya Kumpoto ndi Kumadzulo kwa Africa, kumene Morocco ndiye wogula wamkulu wa tiyi wobiriwira wa “nsidze”. Mayina am’madera — túnlǜ, wùlǜ, a ku Zhejiang suìlǜ/hánglǜ/wēnlǜ — amatsimikizira kuti kumbuyo kwa mtundu umodzi wotumizidwa kunja wapadziko lonse, pali zigawo zenizeni za mbiri yakale za tiyi wa miyambo ya Huizhou ndi Jiangxi-Zhejiang.

Momwe mungasiyanitsire ndi kusasokoneza

• “Nsidze” motsutsana ndi “ngale”. Měichá ndi masamba aatali, opindika, opotoka ngati ulusi (chǎoqīng waatali, 长炒青); zhūchá/Gunpowder ndi tinthu tozungulira tating’ono (chǎoqīng wozungulira, 圆炒青). Izi ndi njira ziwiri zosiyana zopotolera za tiyi wa banja limodzi la chǎoqīng.
• Giredi imawerengedwa ndi maonekedwe ndi kufanana. Tèzhēn ndi zhēnméi apamwamba ndi “nsidze” zofanana, zazikulu, zoyera; fèngméi ndi zowonda ndi zazing’ono; yǔchá ndi tinthu tating’ono topotoka; xiùméi ndi zotsalira zazing’ono zopepuka. Mukamawona fumbi lambiri, zidutswa ndi makoko, ndiye giredi yochepa.
• Dzina ≠ giredi. Hyson/gòngxī ndi chizindikiro cha malonda cha mbiri yakale, osati tiyi “wabwino kwambiri”; Young Hyson ndi yǔchá. Musasokoneze mayina akumadzulo ndi masanjidwe a ku China.
• Dzina lachigawo — ndi za komwe akuchokera. Túnlǜ, wùlǜ, suìlǜ amasonyeza kumene měichá akuchokera, koma payekha si giredi: m’chigawo chilichonse muli msinkhu wonse kuchokera tèzhēn kufika xiùméi.
• Mtundu ≠ kununkhiritsa. Měichá wachǎoqīng ndi nkhona yake ya chestnut sayenera kusakanizidwa ndi tiyi wobiriwira wowumitsa mu uvuni (烘青), umene ndi maziko a tiyi wa jasmine: wa chǎoqīng uli ndi fungo lotentha komanso lokhuthala.

Mmenemo “msinkhu wa nsidze” suli mndandanda wa mitundu chabe, koma dongosolo laumisiri: máochá m’modzi wa chǎoqīng, wogawidwa ndi masefu ndi zowuzira kukhala magulu amalonda obwerezedwabwerezedwa, omwe kwazaka zana limodzi asunga mbiri yotumiza kunja ya tiyi wobiriwira wa China.