shài qīng

晒青 shài qīng ndi tiyi wobiriwira potengera momwe amakonzera ndipo nthawi yomweyo ndi chopangira chomwe pu’er amachokera. Pakati pa gulu la ‘tiyi wobiriwira’ ndi dziko la ‘mdima’ la tiyi woponderezedwa, pali chimodzi mwa malire osawoneka bwino koposa mu gulu lonse la tiyi waku China.

Kodi 晒青 ndi chiyani ndipo chifukwa chiyani ali “pamalire”

M’kati mwa gulu la tiyi wobiriwira (绿茶 lǜ chá), njira zopangira zimasiyanitsidwa ndi momwe amakhazikitsira ndi kuyanikira: 炒青 chǎo qīng (wokazingidwa m’potilo), 烘青 hōng qīng (wouma ndi mpweya wotentha), 蒸青 zhēng qīng (kukhazikitsidwa ndi nthunzi) ndi 晒青 shài qīng (wouma padzuwa). Pa njira zonsezi, sitepe yofunika kwambiri ndi 杀青 shā qīng, ‘kupha kubiriwira’: kulepheretsa ma enzyme ndi kutentha, komwe kumasiyanitsa tiyi wobiriwira ndi wofiira kapena wulong.

Mwachisawawa, 晒青 ndi tiyi wodzaza ndi ufulu wobiriwira: masamba amadutsa pa 杀青, kupindidwa, ndiyeno amayanikidwa padzuwa lotseguka, osati mu uvuni kapena m’potilo. Koma ndiko kuyanika padzuwa kofewa, kotentha kochepa komwe kumasiya m’masamba zotsalira za ma enzyme ndi tizilombo tating’onoting’ono - ndipo izi zimapangitsa kuti ikhale maziko abwino oti pambuyo pake iponderezedwe ndikusintha pang’onopang’ono kukhala pu’er. Pachifukwa ichi, mu kafukufuku, 晒青绿茶 (滇青/川青) amalembedwa ngati chopangira pansi pa 紧压 jǐn yā (kupondereza) ndi kusintha kwachindunji kupita kunthambi yosiyana ya 普洱 pǔ’ěr.

Kuchokera apa pamachokera “vuto lalikulu la mayina”: 普洱 (生茶) shēng chá ndi 晒青毛茶 shài qīng máo chá amadutsa mu ndondomeko ya tiyi wobiriwira m’maonekedwe, koma malinga ndi cholinga ndi tsogolo, ndi a dziko la pu’er, osati a tiyi wobiriwira. Gulu limatsimikiziridwa ndi njirayi, koma njira ya mankhwala amatengera kunja kwa malire a njira ya tiyi wobiriwira.

Malo ndi Mayina a Madera

Malo awiri akuluakulu a 晒青 ndi 滇青 diān qīng (Yunnan) ndi 川青 chuān qīng (Sichuan).

• 滇青 (Yunnan). 晒青 waku Yunnan ndiye liwu lenileni la pu’er. Kuno, kuyanika padzuwa si njira yongokhala yopanda dongosolo, koma ndi mbali ya chikhalidwe chopezeka kale: minda yamapiri, kochuluka kwa dzuwa lowala, mwambo wa kutsatira ndi kupondereza kukhala makeke, njerwa ndi mbale. Kuchokera ku 滇青 amapanga tiyi wobiriwira wosalala, komanso 普洱生茶, ndipo kenako - mitundu yonse yoponderezedwa.
• 川青 (Sichuan). 晒青 waku Sichuan m’mbiri ankakonda kupanga tiyi woponderezedwa ndi wokhwimitsa wa msika wamkati ndi wa kum’mwera chakumadzulo.

Zomwe zimagwirizanitsa madera onsewa ndi malo ofewa a kum’mwera chakumadzulo kwa China, kuchuluka kwa masiku a dzuwa ndi chizolowezi cha chikhalidwe cha kuyanika padzuwa ngati njira yachilengedwe, yotsika mtengo komanso yosasamalira yofikitsira masamba “ku chikonzero”.

Zopangira ndi Mitundu

Zopangira za 滇青 ndizo makamaka mitundu yamasamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan (大叶种 dà yè zhǒng): masamba amphamvu, okhala ndi ma polyphenols ochuluka ndi zinthu zosungunuka, zomwe n’zofunika pa kumwa kokwanira kwa tiyi watsopano komanso pa kusungika kwanthawi yayitali moponderezedwa. Ndiko zopangira “zokhuthala”, zolemera zomwe zimapirira bwino kuyanika padzuwa komanso kusintha kwake - mitundu yochepa yamitundu yaying’ono ndi yosayenera pa izi.

Ndondomeko: pomwe 晒青 amasiyana ndi 炒青 ndi 烘青

Unolo woyambira wa 初制 chū zhì (kukonza koyamba) ukuwoneka chonchi:

1. 杀青 shā qīng — kukhazikitsidwa m’potilo, kumene kumalepheretsa okisidwe ndikukhazikitsa gulu lobiriwira.
2. 揉捻 róu niǎn — kupindika, kumene kumapangitsa masamba ndikutsegula maselo a masamba.
3. 晒干 shài gān — kuyanika padzuwa.

Sitepe yachitatu ndiyo malire. Mu 炒青 ndi 烘青, masamba amawumitsidwa pa kutentha kwapamwamba m’potilo kapena mu uvuni, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ma enzyme otsala asagwire ntchito, kumakhazikitsa mawonekedwe a “kubiriwira” kwatsopano ndikupereka fungo la mtedza wokazingidwa (栗香 lì xiāng). Mu 晒青, dzuwa limawumitsa mofewa komanso pa kutentha kochepa; m’masamba pamakhala zotsalira zazing’ono za enzyme ndi tizilombo tating’onoting’ono. Mankhwala omalizidwa a sitepe iyi ndi 晒青毛茶 shài qīng máo chá — tiyi “wosalala” amene kenako amatha kutsatira njira ziwiri:

• kukhalabe tiyi wobiriwira wosalala 晒青绿茶;
• kupitilizidwa ndi kuthiridwa nthunzi ndi 紧压 — kuponderezedwa kukhala makeke (饼), mbale (沱 tuó), njerwa (砖) — ndikukhala maziko a pu’er, amene kenako amasungidwa ngati 生茶, kapena amakumana ndi kuthamangitsidwa kwa fermentation kuti akhale 熟茶 shú chá.

“Kusawumitsidwa kwathunthu kufikira kusalala” uku si cholakwika, koma ndi ntchito yake: n’chimene chimapangitsa 晒青 kukhala chopangira chamoyo, chokhoza kusintha kwazaka zambiri.

Miyezo ndi Giredi

Mu dongosolo la mitundu yamalonda ya tiyi wobiriwira, 晒青 amayima palokha. Ngati 炒青 amapereka magiredi apamwamba otumiza kunja 眉茶 méi chá (特珍, 珍眉/Chunmee, 凤眉, 雨茶, 贡熙, 秀眉) ndi 珠茶 zhū chá (Gunpowder, 平水珠茶), ndipo 烘青 amakhala ngati maziko a 花茶 huā chá wa jasmine, ndiye kuti 晒青 mu lingaliro limeneli — si magiredi omalizira ogulitsa, koma theka lachinthu, lomwe cholinga chake chikulunjika ku tiyi woponderezedwa ndi pu’er.

Chifukwa chake malamulo ake ndi magiredi ake “amasamukira” makamaka m’munda wa malamulo a pu’er ndi tiyi woponderezedwa, ndipo mkati mwa njira ya tiyi wobiriwira amalembedwa ndendende ngati gulu la zopangira. Ziwerengero zenizeni za miyezo zikuchotsedwa mwachisankho pano: Chofunika si kupereka giredi kwenikweni, koma kuti 晒青 amawunikidwa ndi kuyenera kwake kuponderezedwa ndi kusungika, osati kungotengera kapu “yatsopano”.

Kukoma ndi Maphikidwe

晒青绿茶 watsopano amasiyana kwambiri ndi 炒青 wamba. Pamene tiyi wobiriwira wokazingidwa amapereka kutsekemera kwa mtedza wokazingidwa koyera ndi kutsitsimuka kwakukulu, tiyi wa padzuwa amabweretsa phokoso la “dzuwa” lochulukirapo, lofanana ndi chipatso chouma, nthawi zina ndi kanthu kena kofewa kena kamene okonda amafotokoza ngati kakomedwe ka “dzuwa” (太阳味 tài yáng wèi). Mathiridwe ake ndi othamanga, ochuluka, ndi kukumveka kwathunthu ndi kakomedwe kotalikirapo — zotsatira za zopangira zamasamba akulu a ku Yunnan.

生茶 wachinyamata watsopano kuchokera ku 滇青 m’zaka zoyambirira amakhala wamphamvu kwambiri, ndi kuwawa ndi kumva kuuma, zomwe zimachepa m’kupita kwa nthawi. Pakaphikidwe, njira zonse ziwiri zothira madzi mwachidule (功夫 gōng fu) mu gaywan ndi kuthira kwanthawi yayitali pa mtundu wa zobiriwira zosalala ndi zoyenera. Madzi — otentha, koma osati otentha kwambiri pa zopangira zatsopano komanso zofewa; pa zinthu zoponderezedwa ndi zowunikiridwa, amagwiritsa ntchito madzi otentha kwambiri ndi kuthira kochuluka, popeza masamba opindika ndi oponderezedwa “amapereka” zomwe zili mkati mwake pang’onopang’ono.

Mbiri ndi Chikhalidwe

晒青 — ndi njira yakale kwambiri ya kugwira ntchito ndi masamba kum’mwera chakumadzulo kwa China: dzuwa ngati chowumitsira silifuna nkhuni kapena zida zovuta, ndipo chifukwa chake chinakhazikika mwachilengedwe m’mafamu apamapiri a Yunnan ndi Sichuan. Pamene tiyi wochuluka amafunikira kunyamulidwa mtunda wautali ndi kusungidwa, masamba amaponderezedwa — umu ndi momwe chikhalidwe cha tiyi woponderezedwa, ndipo pamapeto pake pu’er, chinakhalira. Motero 晒青 ndiye “muzu” waluso, kumene nthambi yodziyimira payokha komanso yofunika kwambiri masiku ano ya 普洱 inaduka.

Momwe Mungasiyanitsire ndi Kusasokoneza

• 晒青 ≠ tiyi wamba wobiriwira wa kapu yatsiku ndi tsiku. Ngakhale kuti m’gulu ili ndi tiyi wobiriwira (杀青 + kuyanika padzuwa), udindo wake ndi chopangira cha kupondereza ndi pu’er, osati giredi yogulitsa ngati 珍眉 kapena 平水珠茶.
• 晒青毛茶 ndi 普洱生茶 zimakhala mu njira ya pu’er. Ngati muli ndi keke, mbale (沱) kapena njerwa pamaso panu, kapena ngati nkhani ikukhudza ‘生普’ — awa ndi gawo la puer kale, osati kabukhu ka tiyi wobiriwira, ngakhale kuti mwachisawawa njirayi ndi yobiriwira.
• Fufuzani mawonekedwe a “dzuwa” ndi masamba aakulu. Chipatso chouma, mathiridwe ochuluka, ndi zopangira zamasamba akulu a ku Yunnan zimawulula 晒青 poyerekeza ndi kutsekemera koyera kokazingidwa kwa 炒青 kapena fungo lofewa, “losaoneka bwino” la maziko a 烘青 a 花茶.
• 滇青 ndi 川青 — ndi mayina a madera a njirayi yomwe. Amasonyeza kumene anachokera (Yunnan / Sichuan), osati magulu osiyana.

晒青 amamveka bwino kwambiri ngati malo olowera kumalire: tiyi wobiriwira malinga ndi njirayi ndipo nthawi yomweyo ndi khomo lolowera ku dziko la pu’er malinga ndi cholinga chake. Ndiko kuwirikiza kumeneku komwe kumapangitsa kuyanika padzuwa kukhala chimodzi mwa malo osangalatsa kwambiri pa mapu a tiyi waku China.