níngméng piàn

Magawo a mandimu owuma (柠檬片, níngméng piàn) — magawo odulidwa mopingasa a zipatso za mandimu (Citrus limon) omwe amawuma, omwe ku China amawathira madzi otentha ndi kumwa ngati chakumwa chokhala ndi acidity ndi fungo labwino. M’miyambo ya tsiku ndi tsiku, chakumwa choterechi nthawi zambiri chimatchedwa “tiyi wa mandimu,” koma mwa botaniki sichikugwirizana ndi tiyi: mulibe tsamba kapena gawo lina lililonse la chomera cha tiyi cha Camellia sinensis. M’dongosolo la zakudya la ku China, maphika otere ochokera ku zipatso, maluwa, ndi zitsamba amawaika m’gulu la “zolowa m’malo mwa tiyi” (代用茶, dàiyòng chá) — zakumwa zomwe zimaphikidwa motsatira mwambo wa tiyi koma sizimawerengedwa ngati tiyi. Kupanga kwakukulu kumachitika m’chigawo cha Anyue (安岳, Ānyuè) m’chigawo cha Sichuan, chomwe chimatchedwa “likulu la mandimu a ku China.” Mankhwalawa alowa mwamphamvu m’moyo wa tsiku ndi tsiku: mitsuko yokhala ndi magawowa amasungidwa m’maofesi ndi m’nyumba, m’maphikidwewo amawonjezera uchi, ginger, kapena zipatso zina zouma, ndipo amamwa chotentha m’nyengo yozizira ndi chozizira m’chilimwe.

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: phika la zomera, cholowa m’malo mwa tiyi (代用茶, dàiyòng chá); si tiyi mwa tanthauzo la botaniki
• Gwero la botaniki: mandimu (Citrus limon), banja la Rutaceae
• Gawo logwiritsidwa ntchito: chipatso chathunthu m’magawo — mnofu pamodzi ndi khungu ndi peel
• Kwawo kwa chomera: Kum’mwera ndi Kum’mwera chakum’mawa kwa Asia; ku China chinabweletsedwa m’zaka za zana la 20
• Dera lalikulu la kupanga: chigawo cha Anyue, tawuni ya Ziyang (资阳, Zīyáng), chigawo cha Sichuan

Tiyenera kunena momveka: ngakhale kutchulidwa kwatsiku ndi tsiku kuti “tiyi wa mandimu,” m’magawo a mandimu owuma mulibe tsamba la tiyi la Camellia sinensis. Tiyi weniweni amapangidwa kuchokera ku masamba a mtundu umodzi wa chomera, pomwe pano tili ndi chipatso cha citrus chowuma. Chifukwa chake, ndikoyenera kutchula mankhwalawa kuti cholowa m’malo mwa tiyi (代用茶) kapena phika la zipatso ndi zomera. Izi si chinyengo kapena kutsanzira tiyi, koma mtundu wodziyimira pawokha wa zakumwa wokhala ndi miyambo yake, geography yake, ndi luso lake, lomwe limangophikidwa motsatira malamulo amodzi a tsiku ndi tsiku.

Chenjezo la botaniki: dongosolo lamakono la sayansi ya zamoyo limaona mandimu ngati mtundu wosakanizidwa (mwinamwake citron ndi pomelo kapena citrus ina), chifukwa chake nthawi zambiri amalembedwa ngati Citrus × limon; dzina lodziwika lolembedwa ndi Citrus limon (L.) Osbeck.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

• Kubweletsedwa: mandimu si mbewu yobadwira ku China; kulima mafakitale ku Anyue kumayambira m’zaka za m’ma 1920
• Dzina la dera: Anyue amadziwika ndi dzina loti “kwawo kwa mandimu a ku China” (中国柠檬之乡, Zhōngguó níngméng zhī xiāng)
• Chizindikiro cha geographical: “Mandimu wa Anyue” (安岳柠檬, Ānyuè níngméng) amatetezedwa ngati mankhwala okhala ndi chizindikiro cha geographical (GI)

Magawo owuma anakhala mankhwala ambiri posachedwapa — pamodzi ndi chitukuko cha kukonza citrus ndi malonda a pa intaneti. Mandimu watsopano amasungidwa kwa nthawi yochepa ndipo ndi wolemera pa kayendetsedwe, pomwe magawo owuma ndi ophatikizika, okhazikika, ndi osavuta kuphika ndi kapu ya madzi otentha. Pa mafunde a chidwi pa zakumwa “zopepuka” zopanda caffeine, mankhwalawa adalowa mu chikhalidwe cha maofesi ndi moyo wa achinyamata: gawo la mandimu ndi supuni ya uchi mu botolo lagalasi linasanduka chithunzi chodziwika.

Mwa mtundu wake, magawo a mandimu owuma ali pafupi ndi mwambo wina waku China wa citrus wouma — peel ya mandarin yosungidwa ya Xinhui (新会陈皮, Xīnhuì chénpí) yochokera ku chigawo cha Xinhui m’chigawo cha Guangdong, yomwe imapangidwa kuchokera ku mtundu wapadera wa mandarin (茶枝柑, cházhīgān). Uko ndi uko, citrus wouma amaphikidwa ndi kusungidwa, amayamikira fungo la khungu ndi mafuta ake ofunikira, ndipo khalidwe limagwirizanitsidwa ndi terroir yeniyeni. Kusiyana kwake ndikuti chenpi ndi khungu losungidwa kwa zaka, pomwe magawo a mandimu ndi chipatso chathunthu, ndipo kusungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali sikuwawerengedwa ngati ubwino.

3. Kufotokozera kwa Botaniki ndi Zopangira:

• Chomera: mtengo wawung’ono wobiriwira nthawi zonse kapena chitsamba chachikulu cha mtundu wa Citrus
• Chipatso: chowumbidwa ngati dzira, chokhala ndi nsonga yodziwika pamwamba; khungu limapangidwa ndi gawo lakunja lachikuda (flavedo, lokhala ndi tiziwalo tating’ono ta mafuta ofunikira) ndi gawo lamkati loyera (albedo)
• Mtundu waukulu ku Anyue: Eureka (尤力克, yóulìkè) — mtundu wa mandimu wa mafakitale wofala kwambiri m’derali
• Zopangira za magawo: zipatso zatsopano za kukhwima kwaukadaulo kapena kwathunthu; kuchokera ku zipatso zachikasu zimatuluka magawo agolide, kuchokera ku zipatso zosakhwima — okhala ndi katsitsidwe kawiri

Kuti adulidwe, amasankha zipatso za mawonekedwe olingana, zopanda zowola ndi zowonongeka. Makulidwe a gawo odulidwa nthawi zambiri amakhala mamilimita angapo: magawo ochepa kwambiri amaphwanyika, magawo okhuthala kwambiri amawuma pang’onopang’ono komanso mosalingana. M’gawo lodulidwa mumaona magawo a mnofu, ndodo yapakati, ndi mzere wa khungu — ndi khungu limene limanyamula gawo lalikulu la mafuta onunkhira ndi chowawa chodziwika.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

• Malo: kum’mawa kwa chigwa cha Sichuan, malo a mapiri ndi mapiri a m’mphepete
• Nyengo: subtropical monsoon — yotentha, yachinyontho, ndi nyengo yozizira yochepa komanso kuchuluka kokwanira kwa kutentha kogwira ntchito
• Dothi: makamaka loam ndi purpurozems a mapiri odziwika ku Sichuan
• Gawo m’dziko: Anyue amatenga pafupifupi 70-80% ya kupanga mandimu ku China

Kuphatikiza kwa nyengo zozizira zochepa, kutentha kokwanira, ndi chinyontho kumalola mandimu ku Anyue kubereka zochuluka komanso pafupifupi chaka chonse ndi mafunde angapo a kufalitsa maluwa. Dera lakonza msika wathunthu wozungulira mbewu: malo opangira mbande, minda, kusanja, kusunga, ndi kukonza, kuphatikiza kufinya msuzi, mafuta ofunikira, maswiti, ndi magawo owuma. Ndiko kuphatikizika kwa zopangira ndi kukonza komwe kwapangitsa Anyue kukhala gwero lalikulu la magawo a mandimu pa msika wamkati.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

• Masitepe onse: kutsuka ndi kukonza pamwamba, kuyesa, kudula magawo, kuumitsa, kusanja malinga ndi mtundu ndi kukhulupirika, kulongedza
• Kuumitsa kotentha (kwa mpweya) (热风干燥, rèfēng gānzào): kuwombera ndi mpweya wotenthedwa; magawo amada kukhala a mtundu wa amber-brown, fungo limakhala “lophikidwa” kwambiri, la caramel-citrus
• Kuumitsa kwa sublimation ndi kutentha kochepa (冻干, dònggān; 低温干燥, dīwēn gānzào): chinyonthi chimachotsedwa pa kuzizira kapena kutentha kochepa; magawo amakhalabe owala, amasunga mtundu wachikasu-wobiriwira ndi fungo latsopano, koma amakhala osalimba kwambiri ndipo amawononga ndalama zambiri

Kusiyana kwa njira zowumitsira ndichizindikiro chofunikira cha mankhwalawa. Ndi mpweya wotentha, partial oxidation ndi kuda zimachitika, vitamini C ndi magawo ena a fungo losakhalitsa amatayika kwambiri, koma kukoma kumatuluka kokwanira komanso kolimba, ndipo mtengo wake umakhala wochepa. Sublimation ndi kuumitsa kutentha kochepa ndikosamalira kwambiri ku mtundu, vitamini C, ndi fungo lofewa, chifukwa chake magawo owala amayamikiridwa kwambiri, koma ndi ovuta kusunga ndipo amaphwanyika mosavuta. Mwa maonekedwe, sikovuta kusiyanitsa izi: ma plate a mdima, owoneka ngati amber — pafupifupi kuumitsa kotentha; owala, a matte, okhala ndi wobiriwira ndi wachikasu wosungidwa — kutentha kochepa.

6. Makhalidwe a Organoleptic:

• Maonekedwe: magawo ozungulira okhala ndi chojambula cha magawo; mtundu kuchokera ku wachikasu wopepuka ndi wobiriwira kufika ku amber-brown kutengera kuumitsa
• Fungo: citrus yowala, yokhala ndi kamvekedwe ka peel ya resini; kwa magawo owala ndi kotsitsimutsa komanso “kamoyo,” kwa amdima — kotentha, kokhala ndi katsitsidwe ka caramel
• Kukoma kwa phika: acidity yodziwika, ndi chowawa chochokera ku khungu ndi katsitsidwe kakang’ono kotsekemera
• Phika: kuchokera ku wachikasu wopepuka kufika ku amber wagolide, nthawi zambiri kowonekera

Chowawa cha khungu ndi chikhalidwe chabwinobwino ndi choyembekezeredwa, osati cholakwika. Amachiwongolera ndi mlingo, kutentha, ndi nthawi: madzi otentha kwambiri ndi kusungidwa kwanthawi yayitali, kumakulitsa kutuluka kwa zinthu zowawa ndi zokhudza kumva kwa m’kamwa.

7. Kapangidwe ka Chemical:

• Organic acids: makamaka citric acid (柠檬酸, níngméngsuān) — imayambitsa acidity yamphamvu
• Vitamini C: mu mandimu watsopano ndi yochuluka kwambiri, koma pakuwumitsa, makamaka kotentha, gawo lalikulu limawonongeka; mu magawo a sublimated, imasungidwa kwambiri
• Mafuta ofunikira a khungu: limonene (d-limonene, 柠檬烯, níngméngxī) ndiyo yayikulu; fungo lodziwika la “mandimu” limaperekedwa ndi aldehydes, makamaka citral, komanso β-pinene ndi γ-terpinene
• Flavonoids: hesperidin, eriocitrin, ndi mankhwala ogwirizana a citrus
• Zina: pectin, milingo yochepa ya coumarins ndi furanocoumarins mu khungu, mchere

Ziwerengero zenizeni zimatengera mtundu, kukhwima kwa chipatso, ndi njira yowumitsira, chifukwa chake sizolondola kuzipereka ngati phindu limodzi la “pasipoti”.

8. Ubwino:

Chenjezo lofunika: magawo a mandimu owuma ndi chakudya ndi chakumwa chosangalatsa, osati mankhwala. Pansipa pakufotokozedwa kokha momwe amaziwonera mu chikhalidwe cha tsiku ndi tsiku ndi zomwe zimakondweretsa ofufuza; awa si upangiri wa zamankhwala, ndipo malonjezo a zaumoyo a malonda ogulitsa amakhalabe kunja kwa buku la encyclopedia.

• Mu mwambo wa tsiku ndi tsiku: phika la mandimu limayamikiridwa ngati chakumwa chotsitsimutsa, chodzutsa ndi kukoma, chomwe amathetsa ludzu, nthawi zambiri ndi uchi
• Zomwe sayansi imaphunzira: citrus yonse imawonedwa ngati gwero la vitamini C, flavonoids, ndi mafuta ofunikira; amafufuza padera d-limonene ndi ma flavonoids a citrus, komabe phika la tsiku ndi tsiku la magawo angapo si nsanganidwe wa zinthu izi

Chenjezo loyenera ndi lachikhalidwe chonse ndipo limaperekedwa mopanda tsankho. Phika ndi acidic, chifukwa chake anthu okhala ndi m’mimba movutika kapena enamel ya mano ayenera kukhala ochepetsetsa. Pa nthawi ya pakati, kuyamwitsa, ndi kumwa mankhwala nthawi zonse, ndikwanzeru kugwirizanitsa maganizo pa zakumwa zilizonse zokhazikika za zomera mwa njira yachikhalidwe chonse chosamala. Zonsezi si matenda kapena miyeso, koma chisamaliro chamba cha tsiku ndi tsiku.

9. Kuphika:

• Mlingo: pafupifupi 1-3 magawo pa 250-350 ml a madzi; magawo ochuluka ndi kusungidwa kwanthawi yayitali — acidity ndi chowawa zimakula
• Madzi ndi kutentha: kuti fungo likhale lowala ndi kukoma kwathunthu, madzi otentha ozungulira 85-95 °C ndi oyenera; ngati kusunga vitamini C ndikofunika kwambiri, madzi amatengedwa atazizira pang’ono, ozungulira 60-70 °C
• Zombo: galasi ndilosavuta kwambiri — kapu, flask, kapena teapot yowonekera, pomwe phika limawoneka; gaiwan imagwiranso ntchito
• Nthawi: phika loyamba — pafupifupi mphindi 2-4; kusunga mopitirira muyeso kumawonjezera chowawa
• Kuthira mobwerezabwereza: magawo amapirira kuthira kangapo, ndi phika lililonse limakhala lofewa komanso lofooka
• Kutumikira kozizira: magawo amatseguka bwino mu phika lozizira — amathiridwa madzi akumwa ndi kusungidwa maola angapo mufiriji, kupanga chakumwa chofewa, chochepa chowawa
• Zowonjezera: uchi (蜂蜜, fēngmì), gawo la ginger, kapena zipatso zouma zina ndizofala; uchi nthawi zambiri amawuyika mu phika litazizira pang’ono, osati m’madzi otentha kwambiri

Upangiri wothandiza: chowawa ndi acidity ndizosavuta kuchepetsa kusiyana ndi kuzikulitsa, chifukwa chake ndibwino kuyamba ndi gawo limodzi kapena awiri ndi kusungidwa kwaufupi, kenako kusintha malinga ndi kukoma kwanu.

10. Kusunga:

• Mikhalidwe: malo owuma, ozizira, amdima; chidebe — chotseka mpweya
• Chinyonthi: magawo amatenga chinyonthi mosavuta; ndi mwayi wopeza chinyonthi, amanyowa, amamatirana, ndipo amapanga mold mosavuta
• Kuwala ndi mpweya: zimafulumizitsa kutayika kwa fungo ndi kutha mtundu, makamaka kwa magawo owala a sublimated
• Nthawi yosungira: ndi kulongedza koyenera, mankhwala amasungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali, koma fungo limafooka pakapita nthawi, chifukwa chake kutsitsimuka kwa batch nkofunika

Phukusi lotsegulidwa nkwanzeru kulitseka mwamphamvu, ndipo ngati liri lalikulu — kugawa m’magawo, kuti musapumitse mpweya chuma chonse nthawi iliyonse mukamagwiritsa ntchito.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonamizira:

• Chizindikiro (dongosolo la kuchuluka): mitengo ya wholesale imadalira kwambiri njira yowumitsira ndi khalidwe; magawo a kuumitsa kotentha nthawi zambiri ndi otsika mtengo kwambiri, a sublimated — okwera mtengo kwambiri. Mitengo yeniyeni imasinthasintha ndipo si lonjezo la malonda
• Momwe zopangira zachilungamo zimawonekera: magawo olingana okhala ndi fungo lachibadwa la citrus; kwa owala — mtundu wosungidwa wachikasu-wobiriwira wopanda kuwala kopanda chilengedwe, kwa amdima — mtundu wofanana wa amber
• Zomwe amasinthanitsa ndi zomwe zimawononga batch: zopangira kuchokera kuzipatso zakukhwima mopitirira muyeso kapena zowonongeka; magawo amdima kwambiri, “otenthedwa” ochokera ku kuumitsa kosokonekera; zotsekemera zowonjezeredwa, zokometsera, kapena zokongoletsera “za maonekedwe”; kuyesa kupereka citrus ina yotsika mtengo ngati mandimu
• Zoyenera kuyang’ana: fungo lachibadwa lamoyo, kusakhalapo kwa fungo lachilendo la chemical, kukhulupirika ndi kufanana kwa magawo, kulemba kolondola kwa njira yowumitsira ndi kapangidwe kopanda zowonjezera zosafunika

Padera, ndikoyenera kukumbukira kuti mtundu wowala mwachilendo, wa “neon” wa magawo owala ndi chifukwa chokayikira: mandimu wowumitsidwa mosamala amakhala ndi kamvekedwe kochepa.

12. Zinthu Zosangalatsa:

• Anyue si likulu la mandimu la mbiri yakale, koma “lopangidwa”: mbewu pano ndi yachinyamata, ya zaka za zana la 20, koma ndiyo imapereka gawo lalikulu la mandimu a ku China
• Mtundu wotsogolera wa dera ndi Eureka (尤力克, yóulìkè), wodziwikanso ku msika wapadziko lonse
• Ndi mtundu wa gawo, nthawi zambiri mutha kuganizira ukadaulo: amber-amdima — kuumitsa kotentha, owala ndi wobiriwira — kutentha kochepa kapena sublimation
• Wachibale wapafupi kwambiri mwa mtundu — peel yosungidwa ya Xinhui (新会陈皮, Xīnhuì chénpí): nayenso citrus wouma, amene amaphikidwa, koma kwa iye, mosiyana ndi mandimu, kusungidwa kumawerengedwa ngati ubwino
• Phika lozizira — njira yotchuka yachilimwe: imapereka chakumwa chofewa ndi chowawa chochepa kusiyana ndi madzi otentha kwambiri

Pomaliza:

Magawo a mandimu owuma ndi chitsanzo chowonekera cha momwe chizindikiro chosavuta cha tsiku ndi tsiku “tiyi” chimabisira chikhalidwe chosiyana kotheratu cha mankhwala. Patsogolo pathu pali osati tsamba la Camellia sinensis, koma chipatso cha citrus chowuma, chomwe m’dongosolo la ku China chimadutsa moona ngati cholowa m’malo mwa tiyi (代用茶) — phika la zomera lokhala ndi geography yake, ukadaulo, ndi chikhalidwe cha kukoma. Pakati pa nkhaniyi pali Anyue wa ku Sichuan ndi minda yake ya mandimu ndi kukonza, ndipo chinsinsi chomvetsetsa mankhwala pa alumali ndi njira yowumitsira, yomwe imawerengedwa nthawi yomweyo ndi mtundu ndi fungo la gawo.

Chakumwachi chiyenera kuwonedwa modekha komanso molingana ndi cholinga chake: ngati phika lonunkhira, la acidic-tsopano la chisangalalo cha tsiku ndi tsiku, osati ngati mankhwala. Pamenepo, kusankha kwa zopangira ndi kuphika kumasanduka kosavuta — magawo ochepa, kutentha koyenera, chombo cha galasi, ndi kuchepetsetsa pa nthawi ya kusungidwa, ndipo ngati mukufuna, supuni ya uchi kapena gawo la ginger. Ndi mu kuphweka kumeneku kumene kutchuka kwa mankhwala kumakhazikika, kuyimirira pafupi ndi tiyi, koma osakhala tiyi.

the teas described here are available from teamotea