hòufājiào

Pakati pa magulu asanu ndi limodzi a tiyi waku China, 黑茶 (hēichá, ‘tiyi wakuda’) ndi wosiyana: mtundu wake, fungo lake lokhwima ndi kufewa kwake sizimachokera ku tchire kapena mu uvuni, koma mu mulu wa zinthu zobiriwira zonyowa, kumene mabakiteriya ndi bowa amagwira ntchito. Gawo lofunikira limeneli limatchedwa 渥堆 (wòduī) — ‘kunjatira konyowa’, ndipo limeneli, poyambitsa kutha pambuyo pa kupesa 后发酵 (hòufājiào), limasandutsa chinthu chokonzeka wamba kukhala tiyi wakuda.

Kodi 后发酵 ndi chiyani ndipo chifukwa chiyani 黑茶 si 红茶

Kuti mumvetse chikhalidwe cha tiyi wakuda, ndikofunikira kusiyanitsa mitundu iwiri yosiyana kwenikweni ya ‘kutha’.

Mu tiyi wofiira (红茶), kusanduka kwamtundu kumachitika — kumayendetsedwa ndi ma enzyme a masamba omwe (polyphenol oxidase), omwe amagwira ntchito pomwe masamba asanatenthedwe. Mu tiyi wakuda, zonse nzosiyana. Njira yopangira 黑毛茶 (hēi máochá, chinthu chokonzeka chakuda) ndi iyi:

鲜叶 → 杀青 → 揉捻 → 渥堆 (后发酵) → 干燥 → 黑毛茶 → (精制 / kukanikiza).

Chinsinsi chili pachiyambi pomwe. Potola, zinthu zobiriwira zimapita ku 杀青 (shāqīng), ‘kupha masamba obiriwira’: njira yotenthetsa yomwe imaletsa ma enzyme a masamba omwe — ndendende mofanana ndi tiyi wobiriwira. Izi zikutanthauza kuti kusanduka kwamtundu kwa enzymatic wamba sikungatheke konse pano. Chifukwa chake 黑茶 ≠ 红茶: njira yawo yakuda ndi yosiyana.

Kusandulika kwa masamba mu tiyi wakuda kumachitidwa ndi 渥堆 — gawo limene chinthu choletsedwa kale, chonyowetsedwa, chimanjatidwa mu mulu. Mothandizidwa ndi 湿热 (shīrè, ‘kutentha konyowa’) ndi tizilombo tomwe timamera — mabakiteriya ndi bowa — 后发酵 (hòufājiào), ‘kutha pambuyo pa kupesa’ kumayambika. Uku ndi kusanduka kochitidwa ndi tizilombo ndi kutentha, osati ntchito ya ma enzyme a masamba.

Zomwe zimachitika mu mulu

Chinthu chokonzeka chatsopano chisananjatidwe chimakhala chakuthwa: chimakhala ndi kuwa kwambiri ndi kuzirira kwa chokakamiza. Mkati mwa mulu wonyowa, wotenthedwa ndi kutentha kwake kwa kutha, njira zitatu zogwirizana zimayamba.

• Kuwonongeka kwa kuwa ndi kuzirira. Ma polyphenol ndi zinthu zina zakuthwa zimasandulika ndi kufewetsedwa, kukhwima kwa masamba achichepere kumachoka.
• Kuda. Mtundu wa masamba ndi wa chakumwa chamtsogolo umalowera ku bulauni wakuda, wachififi, pafupifupi wakuda — ndipo kenako dzina la gululi limachokera.
• Kuonekera kwa 陈醇. Mbiri yodziwika ya 陈醇 (chénchún) imapangidwa — ‘kufewa kokhwima’, kukoma kwakuzungulira, kodekha, kokhwima, komwe kumapangitsa tiyi wakuda kukhala wamtengo wapatali.

Mwa kuyankhula kwina, 渥堆 ndiko ‘kukalamba koyendetsedwa ndi tizilombo’ kofupikitsidwa mu nthawi.

干燥: kumene fungo limabadwa

Pambuyo pa kunjatira, chinthucho chimayanika, ndipo ndendende mtundu wa kuyanika umene umakhazikitsa makhalidwe ambiri a dera. Palibe muyezo umodzi pano — zosankha zimasiyana malinga ndi chigawo:

• 松柴明火 (sōngchái mínghuǒ) — kuyanika pa moto woonekera wa nkhuni za paini;
• 蒸压 (zhēngyā) — kutenthedwa ndi nthunzi ndi kukanikizidwa;
• kuyanika ndi dzuwa-mthunzi.

Moto wa paini— sikungoti njira yochotsera chinyezi: utsi umaloŵerera masamba ndi kusiya fungo lodziwika, lomwe lili pansipa.

Masukulu a madera a 渥堆 ndi 干燥

Mfundo ya kutha pambuyo pa kupesa ndi yofanana, koma dera lililonse layisandutsa kukhala kalembedwe kake kodziwika.

安化 (Anhua, Hunan). Kwawo kwa mbiri yakale ya 渥堆 monga njira: luso limeneli linapangidwa monga kuwongolera kwa 乌茶 (wūchá) ya ku Sichuan mu nthawi ya Ming (明). Kuyanika kuno kumachitidwa pa moto woonekera wa paini (松柴明火), zomwe zimapereka 松烟香 (sōngyānxiāng) yodziwika — ‘fungo la utsi wa paini’.

六堡 (Liubao, Guangxi). Sukulu yamakono imagwiritsa ntchito 冷水发酵 (lěngshuǐ fājiào, kutha ndi madzi ozizira) kuphatikiza ndi njira ya 双蒸双压 (shuāngzhēng shuāngyā, ‘kutentha ndi nthunzi kaŵiri ndi kukanikiza kaŵiri’) ndi kusungidwa m’zipinda zapansi — 窖藏陈化 (jiàocáng chénhuà).

雅安藏茶 (Tiyi wa Tibetan wa ku Ya’an, Sichuan). Kuno, zinthu zobiriwira zaukali za “南路边茶” (nánlù biānchá, tiyi wakumalire akumwera) zimadutsa nthawi yaitali ya 渥堆, zomwe zimabweretsa kufewa kwakuzama — 醇和 (chúnhé).

湖北青砖 (Njerwa zobiriwira za ku Hubei). Zimasiyana ndi 高温渥堆 (gāowēn wòduī, kunjatira kotentha kwambiri) ndi kukanikizidwa kolimba kukhala njerwa.

茯砖 (Fuzhuan, Anhua ndi Shaanxi). Ku kutha pambuyo pa kupesa kumawonjezeredwa gawo lapadera la 发花 (fāhuā, ‘kuchita maluwa’) — kukulitsa mwadala bowa wothandiza, wopereka ‘maluwa agolide’.

普洱熟茶 (shu pu’er, Yunnan). Amamangidwanso pa 渥堆熟茶 — kunjatira, koma pa maziko a zinthu zobiriwira zosiyana (onani pansipa); tiyi ameneyu akukambidwa mwatsatanetsatane m’njira ina yosiyana.

Momwe 黑茶 imasiyanirana ndi 普洱

Pu’er nthawi zambiri amaikidwa m’gulu la tiyi wakuda, ndipo mfundo ya 渥堆 ndiyofanana kwenikweni, koma maziko a zinthu zobiriwira amasiyana kwenikweni.

普洱 amamangidwa pa 晒青 (shàiqīng) — chinthu chokonzeka choyanikidwa ndi dzuwa chochokera ku mtundu wamitundu yayikulu wa ku Yunnan 云南大叶种 (yúnnán dàyèzhǒng). 黑茶 ina imapangidwa kuchokera ku mitundu ya m’madera — 群体种 (qúntǐzhǒng), — ndipo 杀青 yawo imakhala pafupi ndi 炒青 (chǎoqīng, kukazinga) kapena 烘青 (hōngqīng, kutenthetsa), osati kuyanika ndi dzuwa. Chifukwa chake kusiyana sikuli mu kutha pambuyo pa kupesa komweko, koma mu mtundu ndi njira yoyamba yokonzera masamba.

Kukoma ndi kaseto

渥堆 kochitidwa bwino kumapereka chakumwa chakuda, chowonekera bwino, chopanda kuthwa kobiriwira ndi chopanda kuwa kwachichepere. Mu kukoma, kuzungulira ndi kufewa kokhwima (陈醇) zimatsogolera, ndipo kuyanika kwa dera kumawonjezera zitsimikizo: tiyi wa ku Anhua ali ndi kamvekedwe kodziwika ka utsi wa paini (松烟香), wa ku Tibetan wa ku Ya’an— kufewa kwakuzama kodekha (醇和).

Tiyi wakuda, nthawi zambiri, amakanikizidwa kukhala njerwa, matailosi ndi mawonekedwe ena. Posakira, tiyi wokakanizidwa mwamphamvu amathyoledwa kapena kuchotsedwa, chotengera chimatenthedwa, ndipo kutsanulira koyamba kwachidule kumatsanulidwa, kuti ‘kudzutse’ masamba ndi kuwasambitsa. Kenako tiyi wakuda amapirira bwino kutentha kwakukulu kwa madzi ndi kutsanulira kambirimbiri, pang’onopang’ono kufutukula kukoma kwake kokhwima, kofewa.

Momwe mungazindikire 黑茶 yeniyeni

• Chiyambi cha mtundu. Mtundu wakuda ndi zotsatira za kutha kwa tizilombo pambuyo pa kupesa mu mulu, osati kusanduka kwamtundu kwa masamba, monga mu tiyi wofiira. Chizindikiro ndi 杀青 kumayambiriro kwa ndondomeko.
• Mbiri ya 陈醇. Kufewa kokhwima, kozungulira kopanda kuwa kwachichepere ndi kopanda udzu wobiriwira kumasonyeza 渥堆 yokwaniritsidwa.
• Chizindikiro cha fungo la dera. Kamvekedwe ka utsi wa paini (松烟香) kamaloza ku kuyanika kwa ku Anhua pa moto wa paini; kusakhalako kwake nkoyenera kwa kalembedwe ka Liubao kapena Hubei.
• Mawonekedwe. Njerwa ndi matailosi okanikizidwa ndizofala kwa tiyi wakuda wambiri.
• Chinsinsi cha zinthu zobiriwira cha pu’er. Mtundu wamitundu yayikulu wa ku Yunnan ndi kuyanika ndi dzuwa 晒青 zimasiyanitsa pu’er ndi 黑茶 ina pamene ali ndi mfundo yofanana ya 渥堆.

Kumvetsa tiyi wakuda ndiko kumvetsa lingaliro limodzi: kuya kwake sikulengedwa ndi tchire kapena uvuni, koma ‘kukalamba’ kofupikitsidwa, koyendetsedwa ndi kutentha, chinyezi ndi tizilombo. 渥堆 ndi chimene chimapangitsa 黑茶 kukhala wakuda.