Hēizhuān chá

Njerwa yakuda yochokera ku chigawo cha Anhua — imodzi mwa “njerwa zitatu” mu malamulo a tiyi wakuda wa ku Anhua, ndi tiyi wakuda woponderezedwa mwamphamvu, amene mu 1939 anayambitsa mbiri yamakono ya kupanga njerwa za fakitale ku Hunan.

1. Magulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: tiyi wakuda (heicha, 黑茶), njerwa yoponderezedwa mwamphamvu.
• Gulu: imodzi mwa “njerwa zitatu” (三砖) za heicha waku Anhua.
• Chiyambi: chigawo cha Anhua (安化), m’chigawo cha Hunan.
• Gawo la msika: lapakati (中档) — chinthu chabwino cha tsiku ndi tsiku.

Matchulidwe apakale a tiyi wakuda wa ku Anhua amatsatira ndondomeko ya “nsonga zitatu, njerwa zitatu, mpukutu umodzi” — sānjiān sānzhuān yī juǎn (三尖三砖一卷):

• “Nsonga zitatu” (三尖) — ndi tiānjiān, gòngjiān ndi shēngjiān zosaponderezedwa, zonyamulidwa m’mabasiketi olukidwa a mièlǒu (篾篓).
• “Mpukutu umodzi” (一卷) — ndi mzati wotchuka wa qiānliǎng (千两茶) ndi mndandanda wonse wa huājuǎn (花卷).
• “Njerwa zitatu” (三砖) — ndi fuzhuan (茯砖) yokhala ndi maluwa agolide a bowa, huazhuan (花砖) yokhala ndi zokongoletsa m’mphepete ndi heizhuan (黑砖) omweyo, njerwa yakuda.

M’gulu limeneli la zitatu, heizhuan ili ndi malo apadera: ndi imene inayambitsa kupondereza kwa mafakitale, ndipo amatchulidwa molondola kuti ndi “kholo” (祖) la njerwa zamakono za ku Anhua. Potengera mkhalidwe wake, uwu ndi tiyi wopanda chifundo chachifumu cha tiānjiān komanso wopanda ulemerero wa qiānliǎng, koma wokhala ndi kukongola kwake kokhwima ndi kolimba.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

• Chiyambi: 1939, pomwe fakitale ya Baishaxi (白沙溪) inatulutsa njerwa yoyamba yakuda.

Chochitika chimenechi chimawerengedwa kukhala kubadwa kwa njira yamakono yoponderezera tiyi wakuda wa ku Anhua m’mafakitale — ndi kumene kunachokera mndandanda wonse wa “njerwa zitatu”. N’chifukwa chake heizhuan anapatsidwa udindo wolemekezeka wa “kholo” (祖) la njerwa zamakono za ku Anhua — mawonekedwe amene analola kuti tiyi wakuda wa ku Hunan akhale wokhazikika, wosungidwa komanso wonyamulidwa pamlingo wamafakitale.

Mosiyana ndi tiyi wa mndandanda wa “nsonga”, womwe mwambiri unali wokhudzana ndi nyumba yachifumu ndi olemekezeka (tiānjiān ya olemekezeka, gòngjiān monga “misonkho”), heizhuan poyamba ankaganiziridwa ngati chinthu chofala, chodalirika — chokhwima, chosavuta kunyamula, chopangidwira kusungidwa kwanthawi yayitali. Mkhalidwe wake wothandiza umenewu ndi umene unamupangitsa kukhala maziko a mwambo wa njerwa za ku Anhua.

3. Kufotokozera kwa Zomera ndi Zopangira:

• Zopangira: heimao feng wakuda (黑毛茶) — chinthu chosakonzedwa chomaliza chomwe chinadutsa mu ndondomeko yoyamba yosungira m’nyansi.
• Mulingo: mulingo wachiwiri ndi wachitatu (二-三级黑毛茶) — osati masamba apamwamba kwambiri a nsonga, koma masamba okhwima komanso amphamvu.
• Mtundu wa Chomera: mulingo wake sunakhazikitsidwe; amagwiritsa ntchito zinthu za m’deralo za ku Anhua, zomwe ndi zodziwika m’dera lonse la kupanga heicha.

Chofunika kwambiri sikuti ndi mtundu wa chomera chokha, koma mulingo wa masamba ndi luso la kukonza koyamba kukhala heimao feng wakuda. Zopangira zokhwima zimapereka mankhwala amphamvu komanso okhoza kupirira kusungidwa kwanthawi yayitali.

4. Malo ndi Zikhalidwe za Kulima:

• Dera: chigawo cha Anhua (安化), m’chigawo cha Hunan — likulu la mbiri yakale la kupanga tiyi wakuda.

Mapiri, nyengo yotentha komanso ya chinyezi, ndi dothi lapadera la m’deralo zimapanga zopangira zolimba ndi zokwanira, zomwe zimapirira bwino kuthira kwanthawi yayitali ndi kuponderezedwa. Kufunika kwa mawonekedwe osavuta kunyamula komanso okhalitsa kunakhudza kwambiri maonekedwe a njerwa za m’derali.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

• Ntchito yofunika: kupondereza ndi nthunzi (蒸压, zhēngyā) — heimao feng wakuda wokonzedwa amasankhidwa malinga ndi mulingo wake, amawotchedwa ndi nthunzi kuti afewe ndi kukhala wonyezimira, kenako amaponderezedwa mwamphamvu kukhala njerwa.
• Kulimba: njerwa yolimba kwambiri komanso yothina (紧实) yokhala ndi mawonekedwe ake oyenera.
• Kuumitsa: njerwa yomalizidwa imaumitsidwa pa kutentha kokwanira — osapitirira 65 °C (干燥 ≤65℃). Kutentha kochepa kumeneku kumakhazikitsa mawonekedwe ake ndikukhazikitsa chinyezi, osati “kuwotcha” tiyi ndikusunga kuthekera kwake kupsa m’tsogolo.
• Zinthu zoyang’aniridwa (kuyimitsa muyezo): mulingo wa maofeng oyamba (二-三级), kulimba kwa kupondereza, ndondomeko ya kuumitsa ndi mikhalidwe ya mankhwala omaliza; ziwerengero zenizeni zimatengera zomwe zikugwiritsidwa ntchito m’miyezo ya dziko ndi ya mafakitale a tiyi wakuda.

Apa palinso malire ofunika aukadaulo pakati pa “njerwa zitatu”. Mosiyana ndi fuzhuan (茯砖), heizhuan alibe siteji ya “maluwa” (发花) — kutanthauza kuti “bowa wagolide” Eurotium cristatum (冠突散囊菌, guāntū sǎnnángjūn) salimidwa. Ngati fuzhuan ali ndi kukula koyendetsedwa kwa spores zagolide pa 25–45 °C ndi chinyezi cha 75–90 % kwa masiku 15–22 kumapereka “fungo la bowa” (菌花香) lapadera, heizhuan amatsata njira “yoyera” ya kupondereza kolimba ndi kuumitsa, ndikupanga fungo losungidwa popanda kutenga nawo mbali kwa mycelium woonekera. Kuchokera kwa huazhuan (花砖), njerwa yakuda imasiyana ndi kusowa kwa zokongoletsa m’mphepete mwa chidutswacho — imakhala yokhwima ndi yosalala.

6. Makhalidwe a Kumva:

• Fungo: “fungo lakale” losungidwa (陈香, chénxiāng).
• Kukoma: kukwanira koyera ndi kolondola (醇正, chúnzhèng); mankhwala ake ndi olimba, osasinthasintha, okhala ndi thupi lakuda.

Mosiyana ndi tiānjiān wokhala ndi fungo lake lodziwika la utsi wa paini (松烟香) ndi fuzhuan wokhala ndi kukoma kwa bowa, heizhuan amadalira kuya kwake kodekha kwa tiyi wakuda wosungidwa.

9. Kuwira:

Popeza kuti njerwayo imaponderezedwa mwamphamvu kwambiri, kuti ipangidwe amaiwalitsa mosamala ndi mpeni wa tiyi, kulekanitsa gawo lofunikira. Tiyi wakuda wamtundu uwu amakonda:

• madzi otentha kwambiri (pafupifupi 100 °C), omwe amatsegula zopangira zokhwima;
• kutsuka — kutsanulira koyamba mwachangu kuti “adzuke” ndi kuyeretsa chidutswa cholimba;
• kutsanulira pang’onopang’ono mobwerezabwereza mu gaiwan kapena mu tiyapot ya Yixing, ndikutalikitsa pang’onopang’ono pamene masamba akutseguka;
• kuwiritsa (煮茶) kwa zidutswa zotsiriza, zomwe zataya fungo lake lalikulu — njira yoyenera kwambiri njerwa yolimba ndi yokhwima.

10. Kusunga:

Njerwa yosungidwa bwino imatseguka bwino m’kupita kwa zaka — pa heicha yense wa ku Anhua mfundo yakuti “akale, ndiye onunkhira bwino” imagwira ntchito. Kuumitsa komaliza kosamala (≤65 °C) kumakhazikitsa mawonekedwe ake ndikusunga kuthekera kopsa kosalekeza.

11. Mtengo ndi Zinthu Zonyenga:

• Gawo: heizhuan amadziwika ngati tiyi wapakati (中档) — chinthu chodalirika cha tsiku ndi tsiku.
• Malinga ndi kulimba ndi mawonekedwe: heizhuan weniweni amadziwika ndi kuponderezedwa kolimba kwambiri komanso kothina (紧实) ndi mawonekedwe oyenera a chidutswacho.
• Malinga ndi zopangira: maziko ake ndi heimao feng wakuda wa mulingo wachiwiri-wachitatu, zomwe zimapereka mankhwala okhwima komanso amphamvu, osati “kufewa kwamaluwa” kwa magulu apamwamba.

12. Mfundo Zochititsa Chidwi:

Heizhuan — ndi nkhani ya pamene udindo wa mbiri yakale wa “kholo” ndi mkhalidwe wake wodekha ndi wabwino zimagwirizana: tiyi wopanda zokongoletsa zochititsa chidwi monga bowa wagolide kapena zokongoletsa, koma ndi kuchokera kwa iye kumene kumayambira kumvetsetsa tanthauzo la tiyi wakuda woponderezedwa wa ku Anhua.

13. Kuyerekeza ndi tiyi ena mugulu la utatu:

• Kuchokera kwa fuzhuan (茯砖): heizhuan alibe “maluwa agolide” — pakuthyola njerwayo, sitiwona zidutswa zachikasu-golide za Eurotium cristatum ndipo sitimva fungo la bowa; ndi “fungo lakale” loyera popanda kukoma kwa bowa.
• Kuchokera kwa huazhuan (花砖): heizhuan ndi wosalala, wopanda zokongoletsa, pomwe huazhuan amanyamula mawonekedwe okongola m’mphepete zinayi za chidutswacho.
• Kuchokera ku “nsonga” (三尖): heizhuan ndi njerwa yoponderezedwa, osati tiyi wosaponderezedwa m’basiketi yolukidwa; mwa iye mulibe utsi wa paini wodziwika wa tiānjiān ndi gòngjiān, omwe anadutsa pa moto wa paini.