huāzhuān

Hua Zhuan ndi imodzi mwa “njerwa zitatu” (三砖) za gulu lodziwika bwino la tiyi wakuda wa Anhua lotchedwa “zisonga zitatu, njerwa zitatu, mpukutu umodzi” (三尖三砖一卷). Iyi ndi njerwa yoponderezedwa ndi nthunzi yokhala ndi chozokotedwa chodziwika bwino m’mphepete mwake monse, yomwe idapangidwa mu 1958 ngati cholowa m’malo chophatikizika komanso chaukadaulo cha mpukutu wokulirapo wa qiānliǎng (千两茶).

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: tiyi wakuda — heicha (hēichá, 黑茶)
• Gulu: njerwa yoponderezedwa, mndandanda wa “njerwa zitatu” (三砖)
• Chiyambi: dera la Anhua (安化), chigawo chapakati cha Chigawo cha Hunan — malo apakati a mbiri ya tiyi wakuda wa Hunan
• Mzere: njerwa yabwino yapakati (中档), yopangidwira kumwa tsiku ndi tsiku, modalirika

M’dera la Anhua ndi momwe dongosolo lonse lazogulitsa la heicha la Anhua linakhazikitsira: “zisonga” (三尖) zosakanizidwa m’madengu amisonga, njerwa zoponderezedwa (三砖) ndi mpukutu wooneka ngati chipilala (一卷). Hua Zhuan ndi ya banja la njerwa ndipo imatengera zomwezo zomwe “oyandikana nayo” pamndandanda — Black Brick hēizhuān (黑砖) ndi Fu Zhuan fúzhuān (茯砖).

M’mwambo wa Anhua, Hua Zhuan ili pakatikati: sichinthu chokometsera kwambiri pamndandanda (zomwe zimaganiziridwa kuti ndi Tian Jian wosakhwima kwambiri ndi qiānliǎng yokondedwa), komanso sikugwiritsa ntchito zinthu zosakhwima mwankhanza.

M’dongosolo la magulu, Hua Zhuan imadziwika ndi magawo atatu: mndandanda — “njerwa zitatu” (三砖); mawonekedwe ndi zoyikapo — njerwa yamakona anayi yoponderezedwa yokhala ndi m’mphepete mwake mwachojambula; siginecha ya njira — kuponderezedwa ndi nthunzi popanda “maluwa.” Ubwino wa zinthu zopangira umatsimikiziridwa ngati gulu lachiwiri ndi lachitatu la black maocha.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Hua Zhuan ndi chinthu chatsopano chokhala ndi mizu yozama. Kholo lake lenileni, “mpukutu wamaluwa” huājuǎn (花卷), limachokera ku tiyi wooneka ngati chipilala, zomwe mbiri yake ku Anhua imafikira m’zaka za m’ma 1800 (mndandanda wa bǎiliǎng — “zana la liang” — umalumikizidwa ndi nthawi ya ulamuliro wa Daoguang ndi amalonda a ku Shaanxi). Black Brick momwe m’makono, monga mtundu wamakono wa Anhua, idapangidwa mu 1939 ku fakitale ya tiyi ya Baishaxi (白沙溪) — iyi ndi “kholo” (祖) la njerwa zonse zamakono za Anhua.

Hua Zhuan idatuluka mu 1958 ndendende ngati yankho ku zovuta za nthawiyo: kupanga pamanja kovuta kwa mpukutu wa qiānliǎng sikunakwaniritse zofuna za msika waukulu. Potengera lingaliro la “mpukutu wamaluwa” mu mawonekedwe a njerwa, opanga adapeza chinthu chomwe chimasunga kukongola kodziwika ndi mwambo wa zinthu, koma chimalola kutulutsa kwa fakitale kokhazikika. Mwakutero, Hua Zhuan idakhala “cholowa m’malo chophatikizika” cha mpukutu — chopezeka, chonyamulika mosavuta, ndi chokhalitsa.

3. Kufotokozera Zomera ndi Zopangira:

• Zopangira: black maocha (hēi máochá, 黑毛茶) — zopangira zomwe zidadutsa mu kukhazikika, kupiringizika, gawo lofunikira la kuyika pamulu ponyowa (wòduī, 渥堆) ndi kuyanika
• Ubwino: masamba agulu lachiwiri ndi lachitatu (二-三级黑毛茶)

Gawo ili ndilofunika kumvetsetsa malo a tiyi mumndandanda. Zinthu zosakhwima kwambiri (gulu loyamba) zimapita ku Tian Jian, masamba okhwima kwambiri okhala ndi matsinde ndi zidutswa (gulu lachitatu-lachinayi) — kupita ku Sheng Jian ndi Fu Zhuan. Hua Zhuan imayima pakati pomwe: masamba ndi okhwima mokwanira kuti apereke chakumwa chokwanira, chodzaza, koma popanda kukhala okhwima mopambanitsa kapena matsinde ochuluka. Potengera zopangira, Hua Zhuan kwenikweni ndi yofanana ndi Black Brick hēizhuān — kusiyana pakati pawo sikupezeka mu gulu la masamba, koma mu mawonekedwe, kapangidwe ndi chiyambi cha luso.

5. Luso la Kupanga:

Siginecha yofunikira ya Hua Zhuan ndi kuponderezedwa ndi nthunzi (蒸压). Black maocha ikasanjidwa ndi kukonzedwa, imawotchera ndi nthunzi kuti ifewe ndi kukhala yosavuta kupindika, kenako imayikidwa mu fomu ndi kumangidwa kukhala njerwa yamakona anayi yothina. Kuyanika njerwa kumachitidwa mosamala, pa kutentha kochepa, kuti kasungidwe kamene kali ndi fungo la kusakwima.

Mosiyana ndi Fu Zhuan, mu luso la Hua Zhuan mulibe gawo la “maluwa” (fāhuā, 发花) — kukula mwadala kwa “maluwa agolide” a fungus Eurotium cristatum (冠突散囊菌). Hua Zhuan ndi njerwa “yoyera” yoponderezedwa, yomwe mtengo wake umamangidwa pa khalidwe la maocha, kuthina kwa kuponderezedwa ndi kukalamba koyenera m’tsogolo.

Kukongoletsa kumeneku kumafuna mawu apadera. Chojambula m’mphepete mwake monse — sichongokongoletsa basi: ichi ndi chithunzi chowonekera cha chiyambi cha Hua Zhuan. Inachokera ku mpukutu wa huājuǎn (花卷, “mpukutu wamaluwa”) — banja lomwelo lomwe qiānliǎng yodziwika bwino ili. Mpukutu wochitira chipilala udapangidwa m’njira yovuta kwambiri: tiyi wotenthedwa ndi nthunzi adalowetsedwa mu bokosi lansungwi, loyalidwa ndi ulusi wa kanjedza ndi masamba a mtengo wa knotweed, kenako ndi kukulitsidwa ndi “kupondereza” (cǎizhì, 踩制) — kugubuduza, kupondaponda, ndi kumanga ndi zomangira, pambuyo pake chipilalacho “chimayanika padzuwa ndi kutsika usiku” kwa masiku pafupifupi makumi asanu. Izi zinali zochita mwadongosolo pang’onopang’ono ndipo zinali zolemetsa thupi.

Hua Zhuan idathetsa vutoli mwamafakitale: lingaliro lomwelo la zopangira ndi kukongola komweko kwa mpukutu “wamaluwa” zidasamutsidwa mu mawonekedwe a njerwa yoponderezedwa yomwe ingathe kupangidwa m’magulu okhazikika. Chozokotedwa m’mphepete mwake chidasunga chilembo chachi China cha “maluwa” 花 m’dzina ngati chikumbutso cha mpukutu wamakolo.

6. Khalidwe la Kukoma:

Hua Zhuan imapereka chakumwa chomwe chili m’njira yachikale ya heicha yakusakwima ya Hunan: yofanana, yothina, yopanda kukwiyitsa. Mbiri yake imazungulira fungo la kusungidwa (chénxiāng, 陈香) — lofewa, la matabwa ndi nthaka, lomwe limakula ndi kuzama komanso kutsekemera m’kupita kwa zaka. Thupi la chakumwachi ndi lozungulira komanso loyera, popanda kamvekedwe ka “bowa” jūnhuāxiāng (菌花香) kamene kamadziwika ndi Fu Zhuan yokhala ndi maluwa agolide.

9. Kuwira:

Potengera njerwa yothina, mfundo zomwezo zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pa heicha ina yoponderezedwa zimagwiranso ntchito:

• dulani gawo loyenera ndi mpeni wa pu-erh, kuyesa kusunga zidutswa zonse, osaphwanya masamba kukhala fumbi;
• gwiritsani ntchito madzi otentha kwambiri — black maocha yokhwima imatsegulidwa kokha ndi madzi otentha;
• chitani kutsuka kwachidule (kuchapa) masamba, kuti “mudzutse” zinthu zoponderezedwa;
• tsanulirani mu gaiwan kapena tiyapot, ndikutalikitsa pang’onopang’ono; njerwayo imapirira kutsanulidwa kambiri.

Kuwira nako kumagwiranso ntchito: kufwika kwa nthawi yayitali pamoto wochepa kumatsegula kuya konse kwa “funso la kusungidwa” — njira yachikhalidwe ya tiyi wakuda.

10. Kusunga:

Monga tiyi wakuda wonse wa Anhua, Hua Zhuan imayamikiridwa chifukwa cha luso lake la kukalamba: mukasungidwa bwino, chaka ndi chaka “ikamakalamba, imanunkhira bwino” (越陈越香), kukulitsa chénxiāng yake ndikuchepetsa kukwiyitsa kwachinyamata.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonyenga:

Zogwirizanitsa zamagulu zimalola kusiyanitsa modalirika Hua Zhuan mkati mwa mndandanda ngakhale popanda kulawa.

• Mawonekedwe ndi chojambula. Njerwa yamakona anayi yothina yokhala ndi chozokotedwa chodziwika bwino m’mphepete mwake monse — ichi ndi chizindikiro chachikulu cha Hua Zhuan ndi gwero la chilembo chachi China 花 m’dzina lake; potengera mawonekedwe, imasiyanitsidwa ndi “zisonga” zosakanizidwa ndi mpukutu wochitira chipilala.
• Kufanizira ndi Fu Zhuan. Thyolani njerwayo: ngati mkatimo muli madontho agolide a “maluwa agolide” — ili ndi Fu Zhuan, osati Hua Zhuan. Hua Zhuan ilibe maluwa.
• Kufanizira ndi Black Brick. Ngakhale zopangira zili zofanana, hēizhuān ilibe kukongoletsa kwa m’mphepete; ndendende chozokotedwa chokongoletsera ndi chiyambi chochokera ku “mpukutu wamaluwa” zomwe zimasiyanitsa Hua Zhuan.
• Chakumwa. Chakumwa choyera, chothina, chokhala ndi fungo la matabwa ndi kusungidwa popanda kamvekedwe ka bowa — ndi chizindikiro cha njerwa “yoyera” yoponderezedwa yapakati kuchokera ku masamba a gulu lachiwiri ndi lachitatu.

12. Mfundo Zochititsa Chidwi:

Hua Zhuan ndi chitsanzo cha momwe mwambo wa Anhua unakwanitsira kusunga mzimu wa “mpukutu wamaluwa” wakale, kuusunthira m’chinenero cha njerwa yodalirika, yatsiku ndi tsiku: chojambula m’mphepete chimakumbutsa za qiānliǎng, ndipo kukoma kwake kofanana ndi kosungidwa kumamupanga kukhala mnzake wokhulupirika wa chakumwa cha tsiku ndi tsiku.