Fúdǐng vs Zhènghé

Tiyi woyera ( báichá , 白茶) adakhazikika ngati gulu lodziyimira palokha ku Fujian, ndipo madera awiri — Fuding ( Fúdǐng , 福鼎) ndi Zhenghe ( Zhènghé , 政和) — mpaka pano akugawana udindo wokhala malo ake obadwira. Amapanga, kwenikweni, zinthu zomwezo, koma chifukwa cha kusiyana kwa dera, kutalika, mtundu wa chitsamba, ndipo koposa zonse, njira yophwanyira masamba amatulutsa makhalidwe awiri osiyana: watsopano ndi womveka — kwa oyamba, wandiweyani ndi wamaluwa-“wamapiri” — kwa achiwiri.

Geography ndi terroir

Fuding ndi ya kum’mawa kwa chigawo cha Fujian ( mǐndōng , 闽东), paboma — ku dera la Ningde ( Níngdé , 宁德). Awa ndi malo a m’mphepete mwa nyanja ndi mapiri otsika okwera mpaka pafupifupi 900 m; malo osungirako uzimu ndi mbiri ya tiyi woyera apa amadziwika kuti ndi phiri la Taimu ( Tàimǔshān , 太姥山). Kuyandikana ndi nyanja ndi kuchuluka kwa kuwala kumapanga mbewu yokhala ndi tsamba lobiriwira-imvi ( huīlǜ , 灰绿) ndi kachitidwe kopepuka, kowonekera bwino-kwatsopano.

Zhenghe ili kumpoto kwa chigawo cha Fujian ( mǐnběi , 闽北), m’dera la Nanping ( Nánpíng , 南平). Awa ndi mapiri enieni aatali ( gāoshān , 高山): kutalika kwapakati kuli pafupifupi 800 m, ndipo nsonga yake imakwana 1597 m. Kuzizira, kusiyana kwakukulu kwa kutentha pakati pa usana ndi usiku — kuchokera apa tsamba lakuda, “lofiirira-imvi” ( tiěhuī , 铁灰) ndi kapu yandiwandiwani, yolemera yokhala ndi kamvekedwe kowonekera ka “munda wamapiri” ( shānchǎng qì , 山场气).

Komanso, mabanja akumpoto kwa Fujian amaphatikizapo madera oyandikana nawo: Jianyang ( Jiànyáng , 建阳) — maziko a mbiri ya gòngméi (贡眉) ndi “water white immortal” ( shuǐxiān bái , [水仙白](https://ny.thetea.app/article/shuixian-bai)); Songxi ( Sōngxī , 松溪) wokhala ndi mawonekedwe oyera otsekemera-wandiweyani. Kum’mawa Fuding imalumikizana ndi Fu’an ( Fúān , 福安) ndi Zherong ( Zhèróng , 柘荣) wa kumapiri aatali.

Mtundu wa chitsamba

Kusiyana kwa malera kumakulitsidwa ndi kusankhidwa kwa mtundu wa chitsamba. Zhenghe imagwirizanitsidwa mwamphamvu ndi mtundu wa “Zhenghe Dabai” ( Zhènghé dàbái , 政和大白) — chitsamba cha masamba akuluakulu, chomwe pamalo ataliatali chimapanga wandiweyani ndi fungo lamaluwa. M’dera lakum’mawa, amagwira ntchito ndi mitundu yawo yamakuluakulu; motero, ku Fu’an kuli mtundu wa “Fu’an Dabai” ( Fúān dàbái , 福安大白), wodziwika ndi nambala yosankha 华茶3号 ( huáchá sān hào ). Kusiyana kwa maziko a mitundu kumawonjezedwa ku nyengo: njira imodzimodziyo, ikagwiritsidwa ntchito ku mitundu yosiyanasiyana m’madera osiyanasiyana, imapereka zotsatira zosiyana zowonekeratu.

Technology: dzuŵa motsutsana ndi mthunzi

Kusiyana kwakukulu kwaukadaulo pakati pa malo awiriwa — njira yophwanyira masamba ( wěidiāo , 萎凋), ndipo ndi imeneyi yomwe imafotokoza kusiyana kwakukulu kwa kukoma.

Fuding mwachikale imatsata njira ya kufota padzuwa ( rìguāng wěidiāo , 日光萎凋): masamba amayalidwa ndi kufotetsedwa pakuŵala kwa nthawi yayitali — pafupifupi maola 72. Kuŵala kwachindunji ndi kutentha kumafulumizitsa kusanduka kwa enzymatic m’tsamba, kumatulutsa fungo loyera la “tomentose” ( háoxiāng , 毫香) lokhala ndi kamvekedwe ka uchi ndi kupepuka kotsekemera kwatsopano. Zotsatira zina ndizakuti tiyi ameneyu nthawi zambiri amakalamba mwachangu.

Zhenghe imadalira kufota pamthunzi / m’nyumba ( shìnèi yīngān , 室内阴干) ndi pa malo odziwika bwino a milatho yokutidwa ndi denga ( lángqiáo , 廊桥), pomwe masamba amafotetsedwa ndi duwa lochepa. Njira yapang’onopang’ono, “yothinidwa” imapanga fungo lamaluwa lakuya ( huāxiāng , 花香) ndi thupi landiwandiwani, losafuna msanga; tiyi ameneyu amakalamba motalika, ndipo kukoma kwake kumawonekera bwino pakapita nthawi.

Muzochitika zonsezi, timakhalabe m’magulu a tiyi woyera: kufota ndi kuyanika kokha, popanda kukhazikitsa zobiriwira ( shāqīng ) ndi popanda kupota. Kusiyana — sikuli mu mfundo, koma mu kayendedwe ka mpweya, kuŵala ndi nthawi.

Muyezo ndi zopangidwa

Maderawa onse amapanga mzere wathunthu wa tiyi woyera wa gulu la báichá (kuchokera ku zinthu za mphukira kupita ku zosonkhanitsa masamba). Panthawi imodzimodziyo ndikofunikira kusiyanitsa ndi tiyi ofanana mawonekedwe ochokera ku mitundu yamakuluakulu yakumwera: mwachitsanzo, Yunnan “mwezi kuwala” ( yuèguāng bái , 月光白) wochokera kudera la Jinggu ( Jǐnggǔ , 景谷) amapangidwa ndi kufota padzuŵa kuchokera ku mtundu wa masamba akuluakulu ( dàyèzhǒng ), ndipo amakhala kunja kwa gulu la tiyi woyera la Fujian, ngakhale ali ndi mawonekedwe a uchi ndi tomonto wochuluka.

Kukoma ndi kusakaniza

Fuding mu kapu — ndi kupepuka ndi kumveka bwino: kuyamba kotsekemera kwatsopano ( xiānshuǎng qīngtián , 鲜爽清甜), fungo la uchi-tomento, inshuwalani yowonekera bwino. Awa ndi “choyimira kalembedwe kogulitsa kunja” — ndi mawonekedwe amenewa omwe adapita ku misika ya EU ndi US kwa zaka makumi ambiri.

Zhenghe — ndi za kukula ndi chikhalidwe: maluwa owonekera, thupi lakuda ( chúnhòu , 醇厚), kamvekedwe ka “munda” wamapiri. Tiyi amakhala ngati wolemera ndi wosafuna msanga, ndi kumva kukoma kotalika pambuyo pake.

Mfundo zothandizira posakaniza ndi zofanana pa miyambo yonseiwiri, koma mfundo zake nzosiyana. Fuding wachinyamata amakonda madzi oletsedwa pang’ono ndi kutsanulira kwafupi, kuti asunge kutsitsimuka komanso kuti “asatenthe” fungo lofewa la tomonto. Zhenghe amayankha bwino ku madzi otentha kwambiri ndi kutsanulira kotalika pang’ono, kuwonetsa kuphatikana ndi kuya kwa maluwa. Pakukalamba, ndikofunikira kukumbukira kuthamanga kwa ukalamba: tiyi wa ku Fuding amasintha mofulumira ndipo amalowa “mukhalidwe wokalamba” molawirira, pamene waku Zhenghe umakhazikika motalika, koma umausunga molimba.

Mbiri ndi chikhalidwe

Fuding amadziwoneka ngati malo obadwira tiyi woyera ( báichá ), ndi phiri la Taimu ngati gwero lophiphiritsira, ndiponso ngati mlengi wa “singano zasiliva za njira yakumpoto” — běilù yínzhēn (北路银针). Awa ndi “choyimira chogulitsa kunja”: ndi kalembedwe ka Fuding ndi kamene kanapanga malingaliro a tiyi woyera pamisika yakumadzulo.

Zhenghe imakhala ndi udindo wa “singano zasiliva za njira yakumwera” — nánlù yínzhēn (南路银针). Imeneyi ndi sukulu ya mapiri aatali yokhala ndi mtundu wake ndi kukongola kwake kwa kufota pamthunzi; chizindikiro chake — ndi wandiweyani, maluwa ndi ukalamba wautali. “Njira” ziwiri — yakumpoto ndi yakumwera — m’mbiri zidakhazikitsa “ulembi” wapawiri wa tiyi woyera ku Fujian.

Momwe mungawasiyanitsire

• Mtundu wa tsamba. Fuding — lobiriwira-imvi ( huīlǜ ); Zhenghe — lakuda, “lofiirira-imvi” ( tiěhuī ).
• Fungo. Fuding — fungo loyera la tomonto-uchi ( háoxiāng mìyùn , 毫香蜜韵); Zhenghe — lamaluwa lowonekeratu ( huāxiāng ).
• Thupi. Fuding — lopepuka, lotsekemera kwatsopano; Zhenghe — landiweyani, lolemera, lokhala ndi kamvekedwe ka “mapiri”.
• Chizindikiro cha technology. Mbali ya mawonekedwe a Fuding pali kufota padzuŵa; a Zhenghe — amthunzi, nthawi zambiri pamilatho yokutidwa ndi denga.
• Khalidwe pa kukalamba. Fuding amakalamba mofulumira; Zhenghe — mwapang’onopang’ono, ndi kukula kwa mphamvu ya kukoma.
• Chiyambi ndi mtundu. Dera lakum’mawa (Fuding, Fu’an, Zherong) motsutsana ndi mapiri aatali akumpoto (Zhenghe, Jianyang, Songxi); mtundu wofunikira wamapiri atalitali wa Zhenghe — “Zhenghe Dabai”.

Kumvetsetsa kwa awiriwa ndi chinsinsi cha gulu lonse: kusiyana pakati pa Fuding ndi Zhenghe kumawonetsa momwe njira yofananira yochepera (kufota ndi kuyanika kokha) pakuŵala kosiyana, kumtunda kosiyana ndi kuchokera ku chitsamba chosiyana kumabala makhalidwe awiri odziyimira pawokha a tiyi woyera.