Bǎiliǎng chá shíliǎng chá

Bailiang ndi shiliang ndi masitepe ang’onoang’ono, a “kunyumba” a luso lomwelo lomwe linatulutsa “mfumu ya tiyi”. Iwo ali m’banja la huā juǎn (花卷) — mzere wa zipilala zoponderezedwa za heicha zochokera ku chigawo cha Anhua, momwe kulemera, komwe kwasokedwa mu dzina lomwe, kumamanga makwerero kuchokera ku shí liǎng chá (十两茶) kakang’ono kupita ku qiān liǎng chá (千两茶) lodziwika bwino.

Chiyambi ndi terroir

Onse a huā juǎn ndi a m’banja lalikulu la tiyi wakuda wa Anhua (安化黑茶, Ānhuà hēichá) wochokera m’chigawo cha Hunan. Awa ndi dera lamapiri lokhala ndi nyengo yotentha ya subtropiki, nkhungu, ndi dothi lolemera ndi miyala yopindika, — zinthu zomwe zimakulitsa masamba akuluakulu, okhwima, abwino kwambiri pa kupesa kwa nthawi yayitali ndi kukalamba kwa zaka zambiri.

Mndandanda wa katundu wa Anhua umafotokozedwa ndi mawu akuti “三尖三砖一卷” (sān jiān sān zhuān yī juǎn) — “zinthu zitatu zosongoka, njerwa zitatu, mpukutu umodzi”. “Mpukutu umodzi” (一卷) ndiwo mzere wa huā juǎn, womwe umaphatikizapo zipilala zamakulidwe onse. Bailiang ndi shiliang ali pa mzere womwewo ndi qianliang, kusiyana kokha ndi kukula kwake ndi kulemera.

Zopangira ndi mtundu

Maziko a mzere wonsewu ndi mao cha wakuda (黑毛茶, hēi máochá) wa kalasi yachiwiri kapena yachitatu (二-三级). Izi ndizopangira zopanda bwino zapakati, zokhala ndi masamba okhwima kwambiri ndi tsinde, — zomwe zimapatsa “mipukutu” kuchulukana, kapangidwe, ndi kuthekera kwa kukalamba kwa zaka zambiri. Magulu abwino kwambiri a mao cha amapita ku tiyi wosongoka wa sān jiān (天尖, 贡尖), pomwe pa zipilala, zofunika kwambiri ndi voliyumu, mphamvu ya unyinji woponderezedwa, ndi kukhoza kukalamba mofanana kwa zaka zambiri.

Malingaliro a makwerero a kulemera

Dzina la chinthu chilichonse ndi muyeso wakale wa kulemera 两 (liǎng). Choyimira cha mndandandawu ndi qianliang — “chikwi cha liǎng”, chipilala cholemera pafupifupi 36.25 kg ndi kutalika pafupifupi 1.65 m. Makulidwe ena onse amangidwa mozungulira icho:

十两茶 (shí liǎng chá) — “liǎng khumi”, kachitidwe kakang’ono koposa;
百两茶 (bǎi liǎng chá) — “liǎng zana”;
五百两 (wǔ bǎi liǎng) — “liǎng mazana asanu”;
千两 (qiān liǎng) — “liǎng chikwi”, chipilala choyimira;
万两 (wàn liǎng) — “liǎng zikwi khumi”, chachikulu koposa.

Popeza unyinji umaperekedwa ndi chiwerengero cha liǎng zakale, bailiang ndi shiliang ndi opepuka molingana ndi qianliang — awa salinso chipilala chachikulu cha “mfumu”, koma zipilala zazing’ono zamakulidwe a kunyumba ndi a mphatso. Kukula kwake kochepa kunapangitsa bailiang kukhala katundu wabwino pa malonda akutali.

Ukadaulo: 踩制 — “kupondereza” mpukutu

Siginecha yayikulu yaukadaulo ya mndandanda wonsewu — cǎi zhì (踩制), kupondereza pamanja ndikumanga tiyi mu silinda wolimba. Bailiang ndi shiliang amapangidwa ndi njira yomweyo monga qianliang, koma pang’ono pokha. Ndondomeko ya ntchito ndi iyi:

汽蒸 (qì zhēng) — kutenthetsa mao cha ndi nthunzi, kuti tsamba likhale lofewa ndi losavuta kulipinda.
装篓 (zhuāng lǒu) — kudzaza tiyi wotenthedwa mu chikwama chansongole chowomba miè lǒu (篾篓). “Zovala” zamkati mwa chipilala ndizosanjikiza: ulusi wa mgwalangwa (棕, zōng) ndi masamba a liǎo yè (蓼叶) amayala m’kati mwa chowombacho, kupanga “malaya” odziwika a mpukutu.
滚踩压绞锤 (gǔn cǎi yā jiǎo chuí) — kugubuduza, kupondereza ndi mapazi, kupondereza, ndi kumanga ndi chiwongolero-”nyundo”. Gulu la amisiri limagubuduza ndikumanga chipilala, kufuna kuti chikhale cholimba koposa.
日晒夜露 (rì shài yè lù) — “masana padzuwa, usiku pamsana”. Zipilala zomalizidwa zimasiyidwa panja pafupifupi masiku 50, pomwe kusintha kwa kutentha ndi chinyezi kumayambitsa kusandulika kwapang’onopang’ono kwa tizilombo ndi kupesa mkati mwa unyinji woponderezedwa.

Gawo ili la “dzuwa ndi mame” ndilofunika kwambiri: limasiyanitsa huā juǎn ku njerwa za mndandanda wa sān zhuān, zomwe zimayanika m’zipinda zotenthetsera pa kutentha kolamulidwa. Kukalamba kwachilengedwe panja kumapatsa zipilala kuya kwake kwapadera.

Miyezo ndi udindo

Tiyi wakuda wa Anhua amayendetsedwa ngati gulu lodziyimira palokha la heicha mu dongosolo la miyezo yadziko la PRC. Kufunika kwapadera kwa huā juǎn kumatsimikiziridwanso ndi udindo wa chikhalidwe: luso la kupanga tiyi wa qianliang likuphatikizidwa mu mndandanda wa cholowa cha chikhalidwe chosaoneka cha dziko (国家级非物质文化遗产) mu 2008. Bailiang ndi shiliang, opangidwa ndi njira yomweyo ya cǎi zhì, amatengera luso limeneli pamlingo wochepa.

Kukoma ndi kuwira

Mipukutu ndi ya mtundu wa “kukalamba, kununkhira kwambiri” (越陈越香, yuè chén yuè xiāng). Tiyi wachinyamata akadali ndi kamvekedwe kakuthwa kakudabwa, koma m’kupita kwa zaka amakhala wofewa: choperekacho chimakhala chamdima-amber, chokhuthala, ndi fungo lokalamba “lakale” (陈香, chén xiāng), kukoma kotsalira m’kamwa, ndi pafupifupi popanda kukhwimitsa.

Popeza unyinji wake ndi woponderezedwa mwamphamvu, chisanachitike kuwira, chidutswa chophwanyika kapena chotsegulidwa chimadulidwa kuchokera pachipilala, kenako nkudyoledwa m’zidutswa zing’onozing’ono. Kwa bailiang ndi shiliang, omwe ma disk ake ndi ang’onoang’ono kuposa a qianliang, izi n’zosavuta kuposa kugwira chipilala cholemera cha 36 kg. Tiyi amatseguka bwino pakuthira mobwerezabwereza mu gaiwan kapena m’kapu, ndipo zopangira zolimba zokuthwa za mipukutu yokalamba ndizoyeneranso kuwiritsa.

Mbiri ndi chikhalidwe

Mzere wa huā juǎn unabadwa kuchokera ku kufunikira kwa malonda. Bailiang monga mawonekedwe amalembedwa kuyambira nthawi ya ulamuliro wa Daoguang (清道光) wa ufumu wa Qing: amagwirizanitsidwa ndi amalonda a ku Shaanxi (陕商, shǎn shāng), omwe amafunikira tiyi wokhazikika, wotsekedwa molimba, ndi wotha kupirira mayendedwe a panjira za ngamira. Kuchokera pakufunikira kumeneku kwa malonda, panabadwanso makulidwe akuluakulu mpaka qianliang — chipilala chomwe chinatchedwa “mfumu ya tiyi wapadziko lonse” (世界茶王).

Ukadaulo wopondereza zipilala ndi wovuta, ndipo m’nthawi ya mafakitale, mbali ina ya mndandanda idasinthidwa ndi huā zhuān (花砖) — “njerwa yokhala ndi zokongoletsera”, yokhala ndi zojambula m’mphepete, yomwe kupanga kwake kuyambira 1958 kunakhala m’malo mophatikizika m’malo mwa qianliang wamkulu. Komabe, mipukutu yokha idasungidwa ngati mwambo wamoyo waluso ndi wosonkhanitsa, ndipo makwerero a kulemera kuchokera ku shiliang kupita ku wanliang akadali chizindikiro chodziwika cha mwambowu.

Momwe mungasiyanitsire

Maonekedwe ndi chowomba. Huā juǎn yeniyeni ndi chipilala cha silinda mu chikwama chowomba chansongole chokhala ndi zotchingira zamkati za ulusi wa mgwalangwa ndi masamba a liǎo yè; m’mimba mwake ndi kutalika kwake zimagwirizana ndendende ndi dzina la kulemera kwake.
Kukula motsutsana ndi dzina. Gawo la manambala la dzinalo ndi kulemera kwake mu liǎng zakale: shiliang ndi yaing’ono, bailiang ndi yokulirapo, qianliang ndi yoyimira ~36 kg ndi ~1.65 m. Kusagwirizana kwa kukula ndi dzina lonenedwa ndi chizindikiro chodetsa nkhawa.
Zizindikiro za 踩制. Chipilala choponderezedwa ndi cholimba koposa; pamene chasweka pamawoneka kapangidwe kolimba, kosanjikiza ka masamba okhwima oponderezedwa ndi tsinde za kalasi yachiwiri ndi yachitatu.
Fungo la kukalamba. Mpukutu wokhwima umapereka chén xiāng yoyera yopanda fungo la nkhungu; choperekacho ndi choyera, chamdima-amber, ndi kukoma kotsalira kotalika.
Kusiyana ndi njerwa. Mosiyana ndi fú zhuān (茯砖), mipukutu ilibe “duwa lagolide” (金花) ngati siginecha yovomerezeka, ndipo amasiyana ndi hēi zhuān ndi huā zhuān makamaka chifukwa cha maonekedwe a silinda ndi gawo la “dzuwa ndi mame” pakupanga.

Bailiang ndi shiliang ndiwo filosofi yomweyo ya mpukutu wa Anhua monga ya qianliang yodziwika bwino, koma pamlingo waumunthu: ochepa mokwanira kuti azikhala kunyumba, ndipo olemekezeka mokwanira kuti azikalamba kwa zaka.