huā juǎn · thetea.app

Gulu la huā juǎn (花卷) ndi mzere wa zipilala zoponderezedwa za heicha zochokera m’boma la Anhua, kumene kulemera, komwe kwasokedwa m’dzina lenilenilo, kumamanga masitepe kuchokera ku shí liǎng chá (十两茶) yaying’ono kupita ku qiān liǎng chá (千两茶) yodziwika bwino. Bailiang (百两茶) ndi Shiliang (十两茶) ndi masitepe ang’onoang’ono, “apanyumba” a luso lomwelo lomwe linabala “mfumu ya tiyi”.

Chiyambi ndi Malo

Ma huā juǎn onse ndi a m’gulu lalikulu la tiyi wakuda wa Anhua (安化黑茶, Ānhuà hēichá) wochokera m’chigawo cha Hunan. Awa ndi dera lamapiri lokhala ndi nyengo yotentha komanso yachinyontho, nkhungu, ndi nthaka zolemera za miyala yothyoka — zinthu zimene zimathandiza kuti pakhale masamba akuluakulu, okhwima, oyenerera kuthira nthawi yaitali ndi kucha kwa zaka zambiri.

Mitundu yonse ya Anhua imafotokozedwa ndi mawu akuti «三尖三砖一卷» (sān jiān sān zhuān yī juǎn) — “nsonga zitatu, njerwa zitatu, mpukutu umodzi”. “Mpukutu umodzi” (一卷) ndiwo mzere wa huā juǎn, womwe umaphatikizapo zipilala za miyeso yonse ya kulemera. Bailiang ndi Shiliang zili pa mulingo womwewo ndi Qianliang, kusiyana kwake kuli mu kukula ndi kulemera kwake kokha.

Zopangira ndi Gulu

Maziko a mzere wonsewo ndi hei maocha (黑毛茶, hēi máochá) wa gulu lachiwiri ndi lachitatu (二-三级). Awa ndi masamba osakaniza okhwima pang’ono, okhala ndi masamba okhwima kwambiri ndi mapesi, — zomwe zimapatsa “mipukutu” kakhazikika, kapangidwe kake, ndi kuthekera kocha kwa zaka zambiri. Magulu abwino kwambiri a maocha amapita ku tiyi ya “nsonga” ya mndandanda wa sān jiān (天尖, 贡尖), pamene pa zipilala chofunika kwambiri ndi kukula kwake, kulimba kwa misa yoponderezedwa, ndi kutha kucha bwino kwa zaka makumi ambiri.

Lingaliro la Masitepe a Kulemera

Dzina la chinthu chilichonse ndilo muyeso wakale wa kulemera 两 (liǎng). Choyimira cha mndandandawu ndi Qianliang — “chikwi cha liǎng”, chipilala cholemera pafupifupi 36.25 kg ndi kutalika pafupifupi 1.65 m. Miyeso ina imapangidwa mozungulira ichi:

十两茶 (shí liǎng chá) — “liǎng khumi”, kachipangizo kakang’ono kwambiri;
百两茶 (bǎi liǎng chá) — “liǎng zana”;
五百两 (wǔ bǎi liǎng) — “liǎng mazana asanu”;
千两 (qiān liǎng) — “liǎng chikwi”, chipilala choyimira;
万两 (wàn liǎng) — “liǎng zikwi khumi”, chachikulu kwambiri.

Popeza kulemera kumatsimikiziridwa ndi chiwerengero cha liǎng zakale, Bailiang ndi Shiliang ndizopepuka mofananira kuposa Qianliang — izi sizilinso chipilala chachikulu “chachifumu” cholemetsa, koma zipilala zazing’ono zogwiritsidwa ntchito panyumba komanso monga mphatso. Kukula kwake kocheperako ndi komwe kunapangitsa Bailiang kukhala chinthu chabwino cha malonda akutali.

Tekinoloje: 踩制 — “kupondereza” mpukutu

Chizindikiro chachikulu cha teknoloji ya mndandanda wonsewu ndi cǎi zhì (踩制), kupondereza ndi kumanga tiyi pamanja kukhala silinda yolimba. Bailiang ndi Shiliang amapangidwa mofanana ndi Qianliang, koma pamlingo wocheperako. Kutsatizana kwa ntchito ndi kumeneku:

汽蒸 (qì zhēng) — kutenthetsa maocha ndi nthunzi, kuti masamba akhale ofewa ndi osavuta kuumba.
装篓 (zhuāng lǒu) — kudzaza tiyi wotenthedwayo m’chikwama chansengwa cha miè lǒu (篾篓). “Chovala” chamkati cha chipilala ndi chosanjikiza: ulusi wa kanjedza (棕, zōng) ndi masamba a liǎo yè (蓼叶) amayalidwa mkati mwa chikwama chansengwa, ndikupanga “malaya” a mpukutu.
滚踩压绞锤 (gǔn cǎi yā jiǎo chuí) — kupiringiza, kupondereza ndi mapazi, kuopsera, ndi kumangitsa ndi chomangira-”nyundo”. Gulu la amisiri limapiringiza ndi kumangitsa chipilalachi, kuchifewetsa mpaka kukhala cholimba kwambiri.
日晒夜露 (rì shài yè lù) — “masana padzuwa, usiku pachame”. Zipilala zomalizidwa zimakhala pafupifupi masiku 50 panja, pamene kusiyana kwa kutentha ndi chinyontho kumayambitsa kusandulika kwapang’onopang’ono kwa tizilombo ndi fermentation mkati mwa misa yoponderezedwayo.

Gawo ili la “dzuwa ndi mame” ndilofunika kwambiri: limasiyanitsa huā juǎn ndi njerwa za mndandanda wa sān zhuān, zomwe zimawumitsidwa m’zipinda momwe kutentha kumayendetsedwa. Kucha kwachilengedwe panja ndiko kumapatsa zipilalazi kuya kwawo kwapadera.

Miyezo ndi Udindo

Tiyi wakuda wa Anhua amayendetsedwa ngati gulu lodziyimira palokha la heicha m’dongosolo la miyezo ya dziko la China. Kufunika kwapadera kwa huā juǎn kumatsimikizidwanso ndi udindo wake wa chikhalidwe: teknoloji yopangira tiyi wa Qianliang idaphatikizidwa m’ndandanda wa cholowa cha chikhalidwe chosagwirika cha dziko (国家级非物质文化遗产) mu 2008. Bailiang ndi Shiliang, zopangidwa ndi njira yomweyo ya cǎi zhì, zimatengera lusoli pamlingo wocheperako.

Kukoma ndi Kusakaniza

Mipukutuyi ndi ya kalembedwe ka “kakale, konunkhira kwambiri” (越陈越香, yuè chén yuè xiāng). Tiyi wachinyamata amakhalabe ndi kachikomedwe kankhuni, koma pofika zaka zambiri amafewetsa: madzi ake amakhala obiriwira mdima, onenepa, onunkhira “yakale” yosungidwa (陈香, chén xiāng), kutsekemera kwapambuyo, ndipo pafupifupi alibe kukhuthula.

Popeza misa yake ndi yolimba ngati mwala, musanasakanize, padulidwa kapena kupatulidwa chimbale chathyathyathya kuchokera pachipilalachi, kenako ndikuchiphwanya kukhala tizidutswa ting’onoting’ono. Kwa Bailiang ndi Shiliang, zomwe timbaletazo ndi tating’ono kuposa za Qianliang, izi ndizosavuta kuposa kugwira chipilala cholemera cha 36 kg. Tiyi amatulutsa kukoma kwake bwino akapitiliza kuthiridwa madzi angapo mu gaiwan kapena tiyapot, ndipo masamba okhwima onenepa a mipukutu yosungidwa amayeneranso kuphikidwa.

Mbiri ndi Chikhalidwe

Mzere wa huā juǎn unabwera chifukwa cha zosowa zamalonda. Bailiang monga mawonekedwe amalembedwa kuyambira nthawi ya ulamuliro wa Daoguang (清道光) wa mzera wa Qing: amalumikizidwa ndi amalonda a ku Shaanxi (陕商, shǎn shāng), omwe amafunikira tiyi wokhazikika, wotsekedwa mwamphamvu, komanso wosavuta kunyamula pa maulendo angolo. Kuchokera pa chosowa chazamalonda ichi, pambuyo pake panabwera masayizi akuluakulu mpaka kufika pa Qianliang — chipilala chomwe chinatchedwa “mfumu ya tiyi padziko lonse” (世界茶王).

Tekinoloji yopondereza zipilala ndi yotopetsa, ndipo m’nthawi yamakampani, gawo lina la mitundu linasinthidwa ndi huā zhuān (花砖) — “njerwa yokhala ndi zojambula” yokhala ndi zokongoletsera m’mphepete, yomwe kupangidwa kwake kuyambira 1958 kunakhala cholowa m’malo chaching’ono cha Qianliang wochuluka. Komabe, mipukutu yokha idasungidwa ngati mwambo wamoyo waluso ndi wosonkhanitsa, ndipo masitepe a kulemera kuyambira Shiliang mpaka Wanliang amakhalabe chizindikiro chodziwika bwino cha mwambowu.

Momwe Mungasiyanitsire

Maonekedwe ndi chikwama. Huā juǎn yeniyeni ndi chipilala cha silinda m’chikwama chansengwa chokutidwa mkati mwake ndi ulusi wa kanjedza ndi masamba a liǎo yè; muyeso ndi kutalika kwake zimayenderana ndendende ndi dzina la kulemera kwake.
Muyeso woyenerana ndi dzina. Gawo la nambala la dzinalo ndilo kulemera kwake mu liǎng zakale: Shiliang ndi yaying’ono, Bailiang ndi yayikulu, Qianliang ndiyo muyeso wa ~36 kg ndi ~1.65 m. Kusagwirizana kwa kukula ndi dzina lomwe lalembedwa ndi chizindikiro choyipa.
Zizindikiro za 踩制. Chipilala choponderezedwa ndi cholimba kwambiri; podulira pamawonekera kapangidwe kake kothina, kosanjikiza ka masamba oponderezedwa okhwima okhala ndi mapesi a gulu lachiwiri kapena lachitatu.
Kununkhira kwakucha. Mpukutu wokhwima umatulutsa chén xiāng yoyera yopanda fungo lovunda; madzi ake ndi owonekera, obiriwira mdima, okhala ndi kutsekemera kwapambuyo kwanthawi yayitali.
Kusiyana ndi njerwa. Mosiyana ndi fú zhuān (茯砖), mipukutu ilibe “maluwa agolide” (金花) monga chizindikiro chofunikira, ndipo amasiyana ndi hēi zhuān ndi huā zhuān chifukwa cha mawonekedwe ake a silinda ndi gawo la “dzuwa ndi mame” pakupanga kwake.

Bailiang ndi Shiliang ndiwo malingaliro omwewo a mpukutu wa Anhua monga a Qianliang odziwika bwino, koma pamlingo waumunthu: ndi ang’ono mokwanira kukhala panyumba, komanso olemekezeka mokwanira kucha kwa zaka zambiri.