niúròu mǎròu

Pakati pa matanthwe a wulong a Wuyi (武夷岩茶), panali chinenero chapadera cha akatswiri, momwe mtundu wa ròuguì (肉桂) umasiya kungokhala mtundu chabe ndi kukhala mapu a matanthwe: tiyi samatchulidwa ndi dzina la chitsamba, koma ndi phompho lenileni limene amamera. Mayina awiri otchuka kwambiri a banja la “nyama” (肉) ili ndi niúròu (牛肉) ndi mǎròu (马肉).

Chododometsa cha «肉»: pamene dzina la mtundu limakhala adiresi

Ma wulong a Wuyi amamangidwa pa njira imene akatswiri am’deralo amabwereza ngati chowonadi chachikulu: yányùn (岩韵, ‘kugwirizana kwa matanthwe’) = 山场 × mtundu × kuotcha. Apa shānchǎng (山场) ndi malo ang’onoang’ono, dera lenileni la matanthwe, ndipo mtundu wake nthawi zambiri umakhala umodzi womwewo — rougui, umodzi mwa mitundu yobzalidwa kwawo (当家品种) pamodzi ndi shuǐxiān (水仙).

Pamene rougui wochokera kumatanthwe osiyanasiyana otchuka anayamba kugulitsidwa payekhapayekha, masewero a mawu anabadwa. Chizindikiro cha 肉 (ròu) m’liwu lakuti 肉桂 chimatanthauza “nyama”, ndipo amalonda anayamba kufupikitsa mayina aatali kukhala mayina a “nyama” potengera chilembo choyamba cha thanthwe:

• 牛肉 (niúròu) — rougui wochokera ku chigwa cha 牛栏坑 (Niúlánkēng);
• 马肉 (mǎròu) — rougui wochokera ku thanthwe la 马头岩 (Mǎtóuyán);
• 猪肉 (zhūròu) — wochokera ku 竹窠 (Zhúkē);
• 猴肉 (hóuròu) — wochokera ku 水帘洞 (Shuǐliándòng);
• 羊肉 (yángròu) — wochokera ku 三仰峰 (Sānyǎngfēng);
• 心头肉 (xīntóuròu) — wochokera ku 天心岩 (Tiānxīnyán);
• 龙肉 (lóngròu) — wochokera ku 九龙窠 (Jiǔlóngkē);
• 虎肉 (hǔròu) — wochokera ku 虎啸岩 (Hǔxiàoyán).

Niúròu amatanthauza kwenikweni “nyama ya ng’ombe”, mǎròu — “nyama ya kavalo”, ndipo kusamveka bwino kumeneku kwaphika kwakhala mbali ya nthano zamalonda. Koma kuseri kwa nthabwala pamakhala mfundo yotsimikizika: banja lonse la «肉» ndi mtundu umodzi wa rougui, woperekedwa ku malo ang’onoang’ono osiyanasiyana, ndipo tanthauzo lonse ndikumva momwe chibadwa chofanana chimamvekera mosiyanasiyana malinga ndi thanthwe ndi kuotcha.

Terroir: 正岩, 三坑两涧 ndi matanthwe awiri a nyenyezi

Dongosolo lonse la Wuyi limagawidwa malinga ndi mulingo wa terroir: zhèngyán (正岩, ‘wowona wa matanthwe’) > bànyán (半岩, ‘chigawo cha matanthwe’) > zhōuchá (洲茶, tiyi wa ku mtunda wa mitsinje), ndipo pambuyo pake pali wàishān (外山) — malo ogulira kunja kwa dera lalikulu. Mtengo ndi mbiri zikukwera pamodzi ndi mulingo, ndipo mboni zathu zonse ziwiri ziri za mulingo wapamwamba kwambiri — 正岩.

Mtima wa 正岩 umafotokozedwa ndi njira ya “zigwa zitatu, mitsinje iwiri, zigwa ziwiri ndi phanga limodzi” (三坑两涧两窠一洞). Chofunika kwambiri apa ndi 牛栏坑 (Niúlánkēng), chimodzi mwa zigwa zitatu zodziwika bwino. Limeneli ndi phompho lopapatiza, lakuya lokhala ndi mikolowe yozizira, yachinyontho, kuwala kwamwazikana ndi dothi lodzaza ndi miyala yochokera ku kuphulika kwa mapiri. Mikhalidwe imeneyi imapatsa “niurou” mbiri yake yokhala choyimira mfundo: tiyi wochokera kuno kwazaka zambiri amawerengedwa kuti ndi imodzi mwa ma wulong a ku matanthwe okwera mtengo kwambiri ku China, ndipo dera lenileni la 牛栏坑 ndi laling’ono kwambiri.

马头岩 (Mǎtóuyán) — ndi gulu la matanthwe, looneka ngati mutu wa kavalo, ndipo dzina limachokera pamenepo. Terroir kuno ndi lotseguka komanso lochokera padzuwa, kusiyana ndi chigwa chotsekemera cha 牛栏坑: kuwala kwadzuwa kwambiri, kutentha ndi chinyezi mosiyana. Izi zimapanga kusiyana koyambirira kwa tiyi awiriwa lisanalowemo kwa katswiri.

Mtundu: rougui (肉桂)

Onse a “niurou” ndi “marou” amapangidwa kuchokera ku mbeu imodzi yobzalidwa — ròuguì (肉桂), yomwe ndi 良种 (mtundu wabwino) wodziwika bwino ku Wuyi. Dzinalo limanena za sinamoni (肉桂 limatanthauzanso “sinamoni ya ku China”): chizindikiro chachikulu cha mtundu uwu ndi fungo lonyezimira la sinamoni, nthawi zina la “kutentha”, limene okonda amachitcha kuti “fungo la sinamoni” (桂皮香). Rougui ndi chitsamba chokhala ndi kutuluka mochedwa koma kwamphamvu kwa fungo, ndipo chimapirira kuotcha kwamphamvu, zomwe zinachipangitsa kukhala chosankhika bwino ngati “chinsalu” chowonetsera kusiyana kwa terroir.

Nkofunika kumvetsetsa: zokamba za “niurou” ndi “marou” sizili za zitsamba zosiyana, koma za mtundu umodzi m’maonekedwe osiyanasiyana a matanthwe. Chifukwa chake, kulawa koyenera kwa tiyi amenewa nthawi zonse kumakhala kufanizitsa ma terroir pamene mtundu uli wofanana.

Kukonza: kuyambira 做青 mpaka 焙火

Tekinoloje ya ma wulong onse a ku matanthwe ndi yofanana ndipo ili m’gulu la kayendedwe kabwino ka kafung’ono kamene kamafufuta pang’ono (wulong):

• kufowoketsa padzuwa ndi m’nyumba;
• zuòqīng (做青) — kugwedeza/“kuzunguzira” tsamba mobwerezabwereza, kusinthana ndi kupumula; apa ndi pamene mulingo wa oxidation wa m’mphepete mwa tsamba (“tsamba lobiriwira ndi m’mphepete mwake mofiira”) umapangidwira ndipo mbiri ya fungo imakhazikitsidwa;
• kutseka (shāqīng, 杀青) ndi kukulunga;
• kuyanika ndi — gawo lofunikira kwambiri ku Wuyi — bèihuǒ (焙火), kuotcha kwautali pamakala a mtengo.

Kuotcha kumagawidwa m’magulu: qīnghuǒ (轻火, kupepuka) → zhōnghuǒ (中火, kwapakati) → zúhuǒ / gāohuǒ (足火/高火, kwamphamvu). Mlingo wa kuotcha ndiye chinthu chachitatu chochulukitsa m’njira ya 岩韵 ndi chinenero chake cha kukoma: kuotcha mopepuka kumasunga kutsitsimuka kwa maluwa ndi zipatso ndi kunyezimira kwa mtundu, pamene kwakukulu — kumatulutsa ma toni a caramel, “zokazinga”, ndi kupereka kumva kokhalitsa pakamwa pambuyo pomwera. Kwa rougui, amakonda kwambiri kuotcha kwapakati ndi kwamphamvu, komwe kumatsindika kunyezimira kwa sinamoni ndi “minerality”.

Miyezo: GOST ya dziko ndi magulu asanu

“Wuyi rock tea” ndi chinthu chokhala ndi chizindikiro cha dera, ndipo kugawa kwake kwamitundu malinga ndi muyezo wa dziko kumagawa ma wulong a ku matanthwe m’magulu asanu: dàhóngpáo (大红袍), míngcōng (名丛, zitsamba zakale zodziwika), ròuguì (肉桂), shuǐxiān (水仙) ndi qízhǒng (奇种). Onse a “niurou” ndi “marou” mwalamulo amadutsa m’gulu la 肉桂 — muyezowo umayang’anira mtundu ndi ubwino wa zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito, koma susunga mayina a “nyama”: iwo amakhalabe chinenero cha malonda ndi cha kulawa cha msika, osati mutu wa GOST. Kuti thanthwe lenileni (牛栏坑 motsutsana ndi 马头岩) ndi loona, muyezowo pawokha suchitira umboni — amenewa ndi nkhani ya kukhulupirira opereka ndi ukadaulo wa kuzindikira ndi zizindikiro.

Kukoma ndi kusakaniza

Mbiri yonse ya rougui ndi kuthira kwamphamvu, kunyezimira kwa sinamoni, “kuuma kwa mwala” (岩韵) kwa mchere, thupi lolimba, loyera ngati mafuta, ndi kumva kotsekemera kokhalitsa pakamwa pambuyo pomwera (huígān, 回甘).

• “Niurou” (牛栏坑): chifukwa cha chigwa chozizira, chamthunzi, tiyi nthawi zambiri amafotokozedwa kukhala wozama kwambiri, wolimba ndi wodziletsa, wokhala ndi fungo lofewa, “lozizira” la maluwa, minerality wamphamvu ndi kumva kokhalitsa kwa mkamwa, kotsekemera momatira. Uku ndi “mphamvu mu chete”.
• “Marou” (马头岩): terroir yotseguka kwambiri padzuwa nthawi zambiri imapereka tiyi wothyola kwambiri, wolunjika ndi wowala pa fungo la sinamoni, wokhala ndi mbali yamaso yotentha ndi yofotokoza, koma nthawi zambiri kumbuyo kwake kumakhala kochepa “kuzama” poyerekeza ndi “niurou” woyimira mfundo.

Kusakaniza (njira ya gōngfū): gàiwǎn ya porcelain kapena mbiya ya Yixing, pafupifupi 110 ml, pafupifupi 8 g ya tsamba, madzi pafupifupi 100 °C. Kusamba tsamba mwachangu, kenaka mndandanda wa kuthira kwakanthawi kochepa koyambira masekondi ochepa ndikuwonjezera nthawi pang’onopang’ono. Rougui wa ku matanthwe wa terroir yabwino amatha kupirira mosavuta kuthira 8 — 10, akuulula kuotcha kwake m’mitsuko yoyamba ndi “kuuma kwa mwala” pafupifupi pakati pa kusakaniza.

Mbiri ndi chikhalidwe

Wuyi ndiye chiyambi chambiri cha ma wulong, dera limeneli lomwe dzina lake m’mabuku a ku Ulaya a zaka za m’ma XVIII — XIX linkamveka ngati “Bohea” (kusokoneza 武夷). Rougui, komabe, adalowa m’gulu lam’mbali posachedwapa: m’zaka za zana la XX, kuchokera ku chomera chapaderoko, adasintha ndikukhala chimodzi mwa zizindikiro za derali pamodzi ndi shuixian wofewa ngati madzi. Mayina a “nyama” ndi chinthu chatsopano kwambiri, chotuluka mkati mwa kukwera kwa msika zaka makumi angapo zapitazi, pamene malonda a tiyi payekhapayekha ochokera ku matanthwe enieni adapangitsa kuti malo ang’onoang’ono akhale chinthu chosonkhetsa. Panthawi imeneyo ndi pamene “niurou” adakhala chizindikiro cha udindo, ndipo banja lonse la 肉 linakhala mapu osavuta a maadiresi a matanthwe.

Momwe mungasiyanitsire

• Mtundu ndi umodzi. Ngati mukupatsidwa “niurou” ndi “marou” ngati mitundu yosiyana — uku ndikulakwitsa: onsewa ndi rougui.
• Kusiyana kuli mu terroir. 牛栏坑 (chigwa, mthunzi, kuzizira) motsutsana ndi 马头岩 (matanthwe, dzuwa, kukhala poyera); kuchokera pano pamachokera “kuzama ndi kudziletsa” motsutsana ndi “kuthyola ndi kuwala”.
• Osasokoneza ndi kuotcha. Kusiyana kwa yányùn kuyenera kumveka pamwamba pa mulingo wamoto; ngati chikhalidwe chonse cha tiyi chimangokhala ma toni a kutentha kwa caramel, iyi ndi mbiri ya kuotcha, osati ya terroir.
• Chenjerani ndi kuyenerera. 牛栏坑 weniweni ndi wochepa kwambiri mwakuthupi, ndipo gawo lalikulu la “niurou” ya pamsika ndi rougui wochokera kumadera oyandikana nawo kapena osadziwika kwambiri. Palibe zizindikiro zodalirika za “m’munda”: kudalirika kumangochokera ku mbiri ya magwero ndi kudziwa kulawa kwa akatswiri, osati mtengo kapena dzina lokongola.

Lingaliro lalikulu la “niurou” ndi “marou” ndi losavuta komanso laukadaulo: mtundu umodzi, matanthwe awiri, katswiri m’modzi wowotcha — ndipo mumamva momwe terroir palokha imayankhulira.