Liùbǎo chóngchá

Pakati pa zinthu za chikhalidwe cha Liu bao, pali chimodzi chosiyana ndi zina, — chóng chá (虫茶), chomwe chimatchedwanso chóng shǐ chá (虫屎茶), “tchai wa tizilombo” kapena, tanthauzo lenileni, “tchai wa ndowe za tizilombo”. Ichi si 六堡 (Liùbǎo) yeniyeni ndiponso si tchai wakuda mwachindunji, koma chinthu chachilendo chochepa cha m’deralo, momwe kuthira kwa masamba kumachitika osati ndi tizilombo tating’onoting’ono m’mulu wonyowa, koma m’matumbo a tizilombo.

1. Magulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: chóng chá (虫茶 / 虫屎茶) — “tchai wa tizilombo”, chinthu chochepa chomwe chili m’mphepete mwa katalogu ya Liu bao, chodziwika ngati chinthu chosowa komanso chikhalidwe cha m’deralo (特异), osati ngati 六堡 wamtundu wina.
• Gulu lalikulu: tchai wa Liu bao ndi tchai wakuda (hēichá, 黑茶) wochokera kumudzi wamapiri wa Liu bao (六堡) ndi madera oyandikana nawo a Cangwu (苍梧) pansi pa Wuzhou (梧州).
• Chiyambi: kum’mawa kwa Guangxi; dera lomwelo la tchai wonse wa Liu bao.

Mitundu yayikulu ya tchai wa Liu bao imagawika m’mizere iwiri: tchai wamakono wa fakitale (现代工艺, xiàndài gōngyì) wokhala ndi kuundika konyowa kwa madzi ozizira (冷水渥堆), kuwirikiza kawiri ndi kukanikiza (双蒸双压) ndi kusungidwa m’zipinda zapansi (窖藏); ndi tchai wakale wa “alimi” (古法农家茶, gǔfǎ nóngjiā chá) wokhala ndi kuthira pang’ono ndi kuyanika kwapanyumba. Chóng chá ili m’mphepete mwa mizere iyi.

Chodabwitsa cha “tchai wa tizilombo” sichili chapadera ku Guangxi: zinthu zofananirazi zakhala zikudziwika kale m’mapiri akumwera kwa China, kumene masamba opangira tchai ndi masamba ena amakhala ndi tizilombo tothirira tikatatha kusungidwa. Mtundu wa Liu bao umagwirizana ndi zomwe amagwiritsa ntchito m’deralo.

Tchai wa Liu bao ali ndi zizindikiro zodziwika, zokhazikitsidwa mwalamulo — 红浓陈醇 (kutentha kofiira kokhuthala ndi kufewetsa kwokhwima), 槟榔香 (fungo la betel) ndi 金花 (phulusa lagolide la fungus 冠突散囊菌, Eurotium cristatum); pa chotsirizirachi, mulingo wa makampani (团标) umakhazikitsanso malire a zomwe zili mkati, ≧ 1,7×10⁶. Chóng chá silowa mu dongosolo limeneli: ichi ndi chinthu chapadera, chomwe chili kunja kwa 六堡 wokhazikika. Chifukwa chake, ndi koyenera kunena za icho ngati chikhalidwe cha anthu am’deralo, osati ngati mtundu wa tchai wakuda wa Liu bao, ndipo osati kuiika mtundu (特级/一级 ndi zina), chizindikiro cha batch (唛号), kapena magawo a tchai wa fakitale kapena wa alimi.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Chóng chá ilipo m’lingaliro la kusunga ndalama kwa alimi: palibe chomwe chimawonongeka. Masamba akale okhwima, omwe akanatha kupita ku tchai wotsika mtengo watsiku ndi tsiku kapena kungosiyidwa osagwiritsidwa ntchito, kudzera mwa tizilombo amasandulika kukhala chinthu chomwe chili ndi phindu lake ndi nthano yake. M’madera amapiri akumwera kwa China, “tchai wa tizilombo” woterewu mwachikhalidwe ankaonedwa ngati chinthu chosowa, chodabwitsa chapakhomo ndi chochititsa chidwi, osati ngati chinthu chogulitsidwa kwambiri pamsika.

Ponena za Liu bao, chóng chá — ichi ndi mbali yachikhalidwe yakunja ya chikhalidwe chachikulu. Amatikumbutsa kuti malo a tchai wa Liu bao — si mabasiketi a nsungwi a fakitale okha (竹箩) ndi kusungidwa m’zipinda zapansi, komanso miyambo yambiri ya anthu: kuyambira 老茶婆 (lǎo chápó, “azakhali akale a tchai”), yemwe amawiritsidwa mumphika, mpaka ku tchai wachilendo wa frass. Zonsezi zimachokera ku zinthu zomwezo ndi terroir yomweyo yonyowa ya Guangxi, koma zimasiyana m’njira zake zothirira.

3. Kufotokozera kwa Zomera ndi Zopangira:

• Zopangira: osati mphukira wachifundo, koma tsamba lokhwima kwambiri, lokhwima komanso lachipepere — tsamba lakale lokonzedwanso (老叶, lǎo yè).
• Mtundu / cultivar: palibe cultivar yapadera; kumagwiritsidwa ntchito mtundu womwewo wa m’deralo monga tchai wina wa Liu bao, — mitundu yambiri yamitundu ikuluikulu ndi yapakatikati ya Guangxi (大中叶), yomwe imapereka tsamba lalikulu, lokhuthala, lomwe limakonda kuthira kwambiri.

Kusankha zopangira zokhwima ndi koyenera: ma tips achichepere amapita ku 社前茶 (shè qián chá) ndi tchai wapamwamba wa fakitale, pomwe zopangira zokhwima, zomwe ndizovuta kugulitsa “monga zilili”, zimatengera mitundu yatsiku ndi tsiku (monga 老茶婆 yochokera ku masamba a 霜降 otuta, okololedwa pafupi ndi chisanu), kapena, nthawi zina, kudyetsa tizilombo tothirira. Chofunika pa tchai wa frass ndi tsamba lokhwima, lolemera ndi fiber la tsamba lokhwima, lomwe tizilombo timatha kudya ndi kuchigaya.

4. Terroir ndi Makulidwe:

Terroir ya chóng chá ndi yomweyo ndi tchai wonse wa Liu bao: mapiri atsogolo, ophimbidwa ndi chifunga kum’mawa kwa Guangxi, dothi la laterite la acidic, nyengo yotentha komanso yonyowa kwambiri ya subtropical. Chinyezi chimenechi — ndi chinthu chofunikira osati pa kuthira kwa microbial kwa tchai wakuda, komanso pa moyo wa tizilombo tomwe timasandutsa masamba.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

Kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa chóng chá ndi 六堡 wina aliyense — ndi njira yothirira. Mu tchai wa fakitale wamba, tsamba limakhala lofiira ndi “kukalamba” m’mulu wonyowa komanso posungidwa m’chipinda chapansi; mu tchai wa alimi — chifukwa cha kuthira pang’ono kwachilengedwe ndi kusungidwa. Apa, udindo wa chothirira umaseweredwa ndi tizilombo: tsamba limasinthidwa m’matumbo, osati m’mulu.

Ndondomeko, momwe gwero limafotokozera, ili motere:

• tsamba lakale lokhwima (老叶) amasungidwa ndikusiyidwa m’malo otentha onyowa;
• tsamba limadzadza ndi tizilombo tothirira, tomwe timadya masamba;
• chotuluka m’chigayo chawo — tinthu tating’onoting’ono takuda (frass) — ndicho “tchai”;
• tinthu tating’onoting’ono amatisonkhanitsa, kuyeretsa ndi kuziumitsa.

Chomaliza — si tsamba lopindidwa kapena “njerwa” yoponderezedwa, koma tinthu tating’onoting’ono tomwe timamwazika (散粒, sǎn lì). Kwenikweni, tili ndi tsamba lomwe silinakonzedwe ndi munthu, koma lomwe lasinthidwa mwachilengedwe, litadutsa m’thupi la tizilombo, kumene ma enzymes ndi tizilombo tating’onoting’ono m’matumbo timagawanitsa ndi kukonza masamba oyamba.

6. Makhalidwe Organoleptic:

Popeza chóng chá — si masamba, koma tinthu tating’onoting’ono, kachitidwe kake pothira kamakhala kosiyana. Kutentha kumakhala kwakuda, kowala, ndi kafungo kofewa, kothira dothi kokoma, komwe kumamveka “kokhwima”, kopanda kuwawa kwa tsamba latsopano. Mwachikhalidwe, ichi chimayandikira kwambiri chakumwa chofewa, choyera “chophikidwa” kuposa 六堡 wokhuthala ndi wolemera wa fakitale wokhala ndi kukhuthala kwake kodziwika komanso kukoma kwanthawi yayitali pambuyo pake.

7. Kapangidwe ka Mankhwala:

Kufewa kwa kutentha kopanda kuwawa kumachitika chifukwa chakuti ma tannin ndi cellose yokhwima ya tsamba lokhwima zidagawanitsidwa kale pang’ono ndikukonzedwa m’matumbo a tizilombo asanatenthedwe.

9. Kutentha:

Magalamu angapo a tinthu tating’onoting’ono amathiridwa madzi otentha. Tinthu tating’onoting’ono timagwiritsidwa ntchito mosamala — amayika pang’ono, — ndipo chakumwacho m’deralo amachiyamikira ngati chakumwa chofewa, chatsiku ndi tsiku.

11. Mitengo ndi Zonyenga:

• Maonekedwe. Chóng chá yeniyeni — ndi tinthu tating’onoting’ono takuda tomwe timamwazika (散粒), osati tsamba lopindidwa, osati tinthu tating’ono ta masamba osweka ndiponso osati mawonekedwe oponderezedwa (njerwa, mtengo, keke, basiketi). Ngati patsogolo panu pali masamba — uyu ndi 六堡 wamba, osati tchai wa frass.
• Chiyambi cha chinthu. Chizindikiro chachikulu — ndi chikhalidwe chachilengedwe: izi ndizomwe zinakonzedwa ndi tizilombo, osati tsamba lomwe linadutsa m’kuundika konyowa. Chifukwa chake dzina 虫屎茶.
• Mbiri. Kutenthako koyera, kofewa, kokoma kopanda kuwawa kwakukulu; kulibe 红浓陈醇 wokhuthala wa fakitale wa 六堡, kapena fungo la “betel” 槟榔香 la tchai wokhwima, kapena 金花 wagolide.
• Udindo. Ngati chinthu chikugulitsidwa ngati “六堡 wokhwima weniweni” wa mtundu wa 特级 kapena wokhala ndi 唛号 ya fakitale — ichi si chóng chá. Tchai wa frass mwachidziwitso uli kunja kwa dongosolo la mitundu ndi milingo ya tchai wakuda wa Liu bao.

12. Zinthu Zosangalatsa:

• Tanthauzo lenileni la dzina 虫屎茶 — “tchai wa ndowe za tizilombo”; mu mawu aukadaulo, chinthu choterocho chimatchedwa frass-tea (frass — ndowe za tizilombo).
• Kwenikweni iyi ndi imodzi mwa “tchai wa tizilombo”, wodziwika m’madera osiyanasiyana amapiri akumwera kwa China; mtundu wa Liu bao — umangokhala umodzi wam’deralo.
• Liùbǎo chóng chá kuyenera kumvetsetsedwa ndendende momwe chikhalidwe chimazindikiritsira: chinthu chosowa, chochepa, chochititsa chidwi chomwe chili m’mphepete mwa dziko la Liu bao — osati chitsanzo cha 六堡, koma chithunzithunzi chake cha ethnography.