lā lā shān wū lóng

Lala Shan Wulong ndi tiyi wamtundu wa oolong wa ku Taiwan womwe umalimidwa m’mapiri a phiri la Lala Shan (拉拉山, Lālāshān) kumpoto kwa chilumba cha Taiwan. Ndi wa gulu la ma oolong ochepa ferment (高山茶, gāoshān chá) omwe amakulungidwa ngati “mipira” ndipo amadziwika ndi fungo labwino la maluwa, kutsekemera kokhazikika ndi phokoso lapadera la “mapiri aatali”. Phirili limadziwika osati chifukwa cha tiyi wokha, komanso chifukwa cha mitengo ikuluikulu ya cypress komanso mapichesi odziwika bwino, choncho dzina lake limagwirizana ndi chithunzi cha chilengedwe cha m’mapiri choyera ndi chozizira. Pakati pa ma oolong a mapiri aatali a ku Taiwan, Lala Shan amakhala ngati kalembedwe kabwino ka chigawo — kosaikidwa patsogolo ngati Li Shan (梨山, Líshān) kapena Ali Shan (阿里山, Ālǐshān), koma amalemekezedwa ndi odziwa chifukwa cha kuyera ndi kukoma kwake.

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

Mtundu: oolong (烏龍茶 / 乌龙茶, wūlóng chá), wa ferment yochepa, wokulungidwa mu tinthu tating’ono tozungulira ngati theka la mpira.
Kagulu: tiyi wa mapiri aatali (高山茶, gāoshān chá); oolong wa ku Taiwan wokulungidwa ngati mipira (台灣烏龍, Táiwān wūlóng).
Chiyambi: phiri la Lala Shan, chigawo cha Fuxing (復興區, Fùxīng qū), mzinda wa Taoyuan (桃園市, Táoyuán shì), Taiwan.
Mitundu yayikulu ya zitsamba: Qīngxīn Wūlóng (青心烏龍, Qīngxīn Wūlóng).
Kutalika kwa minda: pafupifupi 1400–1900 m pamwamba pa nyanja.

Lala Shan ndi wa gulu la kumpoto kwa madera a tiyi a mapiri aatali a ku Taiwan, omwe ali m’mapiri a Fuxing pafupi ndi malire a chigawo cha Yilan (宜蘭縣, Yílán xiàn). Awa ndi amodzi mwa madera a kumpoto kwambiri kumene kuli mikhalidwe yoyenera oolong weniweni wa mapiri aatali, zomwe zimasiyanitsa ndi madera akumwera komanso odziwika bwino a chilumbachi.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

Anthu oyambirira: madera a Lala Shan m’mbiri amakhala ndi anthu a mtundu wa Atayal (泰雅族, Tàiyǎzú), ndipo dzina la malowo limachokera m’chinenero chawo.
Dzina lachiwiri: m’zaka za m’ma 1970, phirili linapatsidwa mwalamulo dzina lachi China la Daguan Shan (達觀山, Dáguānshān), komabe dzina loyambirira la Lala Shan linatsalira m’chigwiritsiro chofala komanso pa zilembo.

Ulimi wa tiyi wapamapiri aatali ku Taiwan monga chodabwitsa chokha unakhazikika m’zaka za m’ma 1900, pamene opanga anayamba kugwiritsa ntchito mapiri okwera kwambiri pofunafuna zopangira zokhala ndi khalidwe lapadera la “mapiri”. Lala Shan kwa nthawi yaitali inkadziwika makamaka chifukwa cha malo osungira mitengo ikuluikulu ndi minda ya mapichesi, ndipo kupanga mafakitale kwa oolong kuno kunakhazikika mochedwapo kusiyana ndi madera akale a mapiri aatali apakati pa chilumbachi.

Lero Lala Shan Wulong amadziwika ngati tiyi wa “niche” wa mapiri aatali a kumpoto kwa Taiwan. Amagwirizanitsidwa ndi nyengo yozizira, chifunga ndi mbiri ya dera la mapiri losavulaza zachilengedwe, komanso ndi chikhalidwe cha tiyi wampikisano (比賽茶, bǐsàichá), momwe alimi a ku Taiwan amapikisana maluso awo pakukonza.

3. Kufotokozera kwa Zomera ndi Zopangira:

Mtundu: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis — mtundu wachi China wa masamba ang’onoang’ono wa chitsamba cha tiyi.
Mtundu waukulu: Qīngxīn Wūlóng (青心烏龍), womwe umadziwikanso kuti Ruǎnzhī Wūlóng (軟枝烏龍, Ruǎnzhī Wūlóng). Umapereka fungo losalala kwambiri ndi kukoma kofewa, koma ndi wovuta, wosavutika ndi matenda ndipo umakhala ndi zokolola zochepa.
Mitundu yowonjezera: Jīnxuān (金萱, Jīnxuān, nambala yosankhidwa TTES #12) yokhala ndi fungo lapadera la mkaka ndi zonona; kawirikawiri — Cuìyù (翠玉, Cuìyù, TTES #13).
Mulingo wa kuthyola: mphukira zokhala ndi tsamba lapamwamba lotukuka (開面, kāimiàn), nthawi zambiri mphukira ndi masamba awiri kapena atatu.

Kwa oolong wa mipira, amathyola osati mphukira zazing’ono kwambiri, koma zokhwima pang’ono: pamene pamwamba paleka kukula mwachangu, tsamba limatenga zinthu zokwanira kupanga thupi lokoma lolimba. Kuthyola pamanja kumalemekezedwa kwambiri kuposa kwa makina, makamaka pa zopangira za mpikisano.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

Nyengo: yozizira ya m’mapiri, yokhala ndi chifunga pafupipafupi ndi chinyezi chambiri.
Kusintha kwa kutentha usana ndi usiku: kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa kutentha kwa masana ndi usiku kumachedwetsa kukula kwa mphukira.
Nthaka: za m’mapiri, zotulutsa madzi bwino, zokhala ndi zinthu zachilengedwe zambiri.
Nyengo za kuthyola: amalemekezedwa kwambiri a masika (春茶, chūnchá) ndi a m’nyengo yozizira (冬茶, dōngchá).

Kutalika kumagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri. Pamalo aatali, tsamba la tiyi limakula mochedwa, limatenga ma amino acid ambiri ndi polyphenols ochepa okhwima, zomwe zimapereka kutsekemera kwapadera ndi kufewa pamene kuwawa kumachepa. Chifunga chimabalalitsa kuwala kwadzuwa kwachindunji, ndipo kuzizira kumatalikitsa nyengo ya kukula — kuphatikiza kwa zinthu izi kumapanga zomwe anthu a ku Taiwan amatcha “phokoso la mapiri aatali” (高山韻, gāoshān yùn). Magulu a masika ndi ozizira nthawi zambiri amakhala ndi fungo labwino komanso okoma kuposa a m’nyengo yotentha omwe amakhala ochepa luso.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

Kufota pang’ono (萎凋, wěidiāo): choyamba padzuwa, kenako m’nyumba, kuti tsamba litayike madzi mwa pang’ono ndi kuyambitsa kupanga fungo.
Kugwedeza ndi kufota pang’ono (做青 / 搖青, zuòqīng / yáoqīng): kusinthanitsa kugwedeza ndi kupumitsa tsamba, pamene pamachitika kulamulidwa kwa ferment ya pang’ono m’mphepete.
Kukhazikitsa (殺青, shāqīng): kutentha komwe kumaletsa okosijeni ndi kukhazikitsa fungo.
Kukulunga (揉捻, róuniǎn): kuwononga koyamba kwa ma cell ndi kupatsa tsamba mawonekedwe.
Kukulungidwa kukhala tinthu tating’ono (團揉 / 布揉, tuánróu): kukulunga tsamba mobwerezabwereza m’matumba a nsalu ndi kutentha kwapakati, zomwe zimapangitsa tinthu tating’ono tolimba tozungulira ngati theka la mpira.
Kuumitsa (烘乾, hōnggān): kufikitsa chinyezi pamlingo wokhazikika.
Kuwotcha (焙火, bèihuǒ): kwa Lala Shan nthawi zambiri kumakhala kochepa kapena kulibe, kuti asunge mbiri yatsopano, “yobiriwira” ya maluwa.

Mulingo wa ferment wa oolong wamakono wa mapiri aatali ndi wochepa — pafupifupi m’chigawo cha kukonza mopepuka, zomwe zimasiyanitsa fungo lake ndi ma oolong okhwima oxidised ndi owotchedwa kwambiri. Kukulungidwa m’matumba a nsalu ndi ntchito yovuta, yomwe imapanga mawonekedwe odziwika a tiyi wokonzedwa: “ngale” zobiriwira zokhazikika, zomwe zimatseguka pakupanga moŵa kukhala masamba athunthu.

6. Makhalidwe a Organoleptic:

Tsamba louma: tinthu tating’ono tolimba tozungulira ngati theka la mpira ta mtundu wobiriwira wonenepa, nthawi zambiri ndi tizidutswa ta tsinde.
Fungo: labwino la maluwa, lokhala ndi fungo la udzu wa m’madambo, ndipo nthawi zina la mkaka ndi zonona (makamaka pa mtundu wa Jīnxuān).
Chakumwa: choyera, kuchokera ku chobiriwira chowala mpaka ku chikasu chotumbululuka.
Kukoma: kofewa, kokoma, kolimba, ndi kumva kutsitsimula “kozizira” ndi kuwawa kochepa.
Kukoma kotsalira (回甘, huígān): kwa nthawi yaitali, kokoma, ndi kubwerera kwa malovu.
Tsamba lotambasulidwa: lalikulu, lothina, lathunthu, la mtundu wobiriwira wofanana ndi m’mphepete ofiira pang’ono.

7. Kapangidwe ka Mankhwala:

Polyphenols (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): alipo, koma gawo lawo ndi lochepa chifukwa cha terroir ya mapiri aatali ndi ferment yochepa.
Catechins (兒茶素, érchásù): gulu lalikulu la polyphenols, lomwe limapereka kukomera ndi mphamvu ya antioxidant.
Amino acids (氨基酸, ānjīsuān): kuchuluka kokwezeka, makamaka L-theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān), yomwe imapereka kutsekemera ndi kukwanira kwa kukoma.
Caffeine (咖啡因, kāfēiyīn): imapezeka mochepa.
Zinthu zonunkhira: gulu lolemera la zinthu zosakhazikika, zomwe zimapangidwa pakufota pang’ono ndi kufota pang’ono ndipo zimapanga fungo la maluwa.

Kwa ma oolong a mapiri aatali, chiŵerengero cha zinthu chosunthidwira kumbali ya ma amino acid ndi chodziwika: kukula kwapang’onopang’ono pamalo aatali kumachepetsa kudzikundikira kwa polyphenols okhwima, zomwe zimapangitsa kukoma kukhala kokoma ndi kofewa. Miyezo yeniyeni imatengera mtundu, kutalika, nyengo ndi ukadaulo, choncho n’koyenera kuzitchula ngati zizoloŵezi.

8. Ubwino Wathanzi:

Kuchita kwa antioxidant: kumaperekedwa ndi polyphenols ndi catechins.
Kupereka mphamvu: kutsitsimuka kochepa ndi kukhazikika chifukwa cha caffeine yophatikizidwa ndi theanine, yomwe imachepetsa zotsatira zake.
Kufewa kwa m’mimba: ferment yochepa ndi kuwawa kochepa kumapangitsa chakumwa kukhala chosasangalatsa pakumwa mwanzeru.
Kupereka madzi ndi kuthetsa ludzu: chakumwa chatsopano, chopepuka chimathetsa ludzu bwino.

Zinthu zotchulidwazi ndi za chikhalidwe chofala ndipo sizilowa m’malo mwa chithandizo chamankhwala. Anthu omwe ali ndi chidwi ndi caffeine, komanso panthawi ya pakati ndi zina, ayenera kukhala osamala.

9. Kupanga Moŵa:

Chombo: gaiwan (蓋碗, gàiwǎn) kapena teapot yaing’ono ya Yixing (紫砂壺, zǐshā hú); porcelain imagwiranso ntchito.
Madzi: ofewa, kutentha 90–100 °C (kwa oolong wa mapiri aatali, kutentha kwakukulu kumayenera).
Mlingo: pafupifupi 5–7 g pa 100–120 ml.
Kutsuka: kutsuka mwachidule kwa masekondi 5–10 kumathandiza tinthu tating’ono kutseguka.
Mitsuko: zoyamba kwa masekondi 15–30 ndikutalikitsa pang’onopang’ono; amapirira 6–8 kapena kuposerapo.

Tiyi wokulungidwa molimba amafunika nthawi kuti “atseguke”: mitsuko yoyamba imatha kukhala yowala, ndipo kukoma kokwanira kumabwera ndi yachiwiri kapena yachitatu. Madzi otentha ndi ofunika kuti awonetse fungo la mapiri aatali, pomwe kutulutsa kwa nthawi yaitali kungapereka kukomera. Ndikothekanso kupanga moŵa mophweka mu voliyumu yaikulu (grandpa style), koma izi siziwonetsa bwino tsatanetsatane. Pambuyo pa gawo, ndi bwino kuona tsamba lotambasulidwa — masamba athunthu ndi olimba amasonyeza kuthyola ndi kukonza mwachidwi.

10. Kusunga:

Chidebe: chotseka bwino chosawala kapena mtsuko.
Mikhalidwe: kuzizira, mdima, kusowa kwa fungo lina ndi chinyezi.
Kutsitsimuka: oolong wa mapiri aatali wochepa ferment amawonekera bwino kwambiri mkati mwa chaka chimodzi kapena ziwiri zoyambirira pambuyo popanga.
Firiji: n’kothekanso kusunga kwa nthawi yaitali m’matumba a vacuum pa kutentha kochepa, koma paketi yochotsedwa iyenera kutenthedwa ku kutentha kwa chipinda isanatsegulidwe, kupewa madzi.

Oolong “wobiriwira” wosawotchedwa amakhudzidwa kwambiri ndi chinyezi, kuwala ndi fungo, choncho sayenera kusungidwa pafupi ndi zonunkhira, khofi ndi mafuta onunkhiritsa. Pamene fungo likuzimiririka, tiyi wotere akhoza kuumitsidwa pang’ono kapena kuwotchedwa, komabe izi zimasintha mbiri yake yoyambirira yatsopano.

11. Mtengo ndi Zachinyengo:

Gawo la mtengo: oolong weniweni wa mapiri aatali a ku Taiwan ndi wa tiyi okwera mtengo; magulu ampikisano ndi a masika ndi ozizira amawononga ndalama zambiri kuposa wamba.
Zosintha zodziwika: tiyi wochokera ku Vietnam ndi madera ena monga tiyi wa mapiri aatali a ku Taiwan; zopangira zochokera pamtunda wochepa, zogulitsidwa ngati “高山”; kuphatikiza tsamba la mapiri aatali ndi la m’chigwa.
Kusamveka kwa mawu: mawu “高山” alibe chitetezo chokhwima chalamulo ndipo nthawi zina amagwiritsidwa ntchito pazamalonda.

Kusiyanitsa Lala Shan wabwino kumathandizidwa ndi kuphatikiza kwa zizindikiro: fungo loyera la maluwa popanda “kuthwa”, thupi lokoma lolimba, kukoma kotsalira kwa nthawi yaitali ndi kubwerera kwa kutsekemera ndi “phokoso la mapiri aatali” lamoyo. Zoyenera kudetsa nkhawa ndi mtengo wotsika kwambiri ndi dzina lalikulu, fungo lofowoka kapena “lafumbi”, kutaya kukoma mwachangu pambuyo pa mitsuko iwiri kapena itatu ndi tsamba lotambasulidwa losweka, losafanana. Ndi bwino kugula tiyi kuchokera kwa ogulitsa odalirika, kuyang’ana zambiri za chiyambi ndi nyengo, ndipo ngati n’kotheka, kulawa musanagule.

12. Zinthu Zosangalatsa:

Mitengo ikuluikulu: Lala Shan ndi yotchuka chifukwa cha malo osungira mitengo ikuluikulu yakale ya cypress, kuphatikizapo red cypress yaku Taiwan (紅檜, hónghuì), yomwe imalemekezedwa ngati “mitengo yopatulika” (神木, shénmù).
Mapichesi: mapiri a Lala Shan amadziwika ndi mapichesi odzaza madzi (水蜜桃, shuǐmìtáo), ndipo mu nyengo yake phirili limakhala malo a zokopa alendo a “mapichesi”.
Dzina lochokera m’chinenero cha Atayal: dzina la malo Lala Shan ndi cholowa cha anthu oyambirira a Atayal, osati chinenero cha China.
Kumpoto kwa terroir ya mapiri aatali: awa ndi amodzi mwa madera ochepa a kumpoto kwa Taiwan kumene kutalika ndi nyengo zimalola kupanga oolong weniweni wa mapiri aatali.

Pomaliza:

Lala Shan Wulong ndi woimira wodziwika wa ulimi wa tiyi wa mapiri aatali a ku Taiwan, momwe nyengo yozizira, chifunga ndi kusintha kwakukulu kwa kutentha usana ndi usiku kumapanga oolong wofewa, wokoma ndi wonunkhira wa ferment yochepa. Kumbuyo kwa kuoneka kosavuta kwa “ngale” zobiriwira zolimba kuli ntchito yovuta yamanja — kuchokera pakuthyola mwachidwi mphukira zokhwima mpaka kukulungidwa mobwerezabwereza kwa tsamba m’matumba a nsalu.

Kwa wokonda, tiyi uyu ndi wosangalatsa ngati njira ina yachete kwa ma brand odziwika a mapiri aatali a chilumbachi: amapereka “phokoso la mapiri aatali” lodziwika, kukoma kotsalira kwa nthawi yaitali ndi kugwirizana ndi malo apadera — phiri la mitengo ikuluikulu yakale ya cypress ndi minda ya mapichesi. Pogula, ndi bwino kutsata kuwonekera kwa chiyambi ndi kulawa kwanu, ndipo popanga moŵa — madzi otentha, mitsuko yaifupi ndi chidwi pa momwe tiyi amatsegukira kuchokera m’chakumwa chimodzi kupita ku china.

the teas described here are available from teamotea