jiǎogǔlán

Jiaogulan (绞股蓝, jiǎogǔlán), botanically Gynostemma pentaphyllum, ndi mmera wosatha wa m’banja la mphonda lomwe masamba ndi mphukira zake zazing’ono zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ku China kupangira chakumwa chowawa-chotsekemera cha mtundu wa amber-wobiriwira. Ngakhale kuti m’chinenero cha tsiku ndi tsiku, mu Chirasha ndi Chitchayina, chakumwa ichi nthawi zambiri chimatchedwa “tiyi,” sichiri tiyi m’lingaliro la botanical: malo opangirawo alibe masamba a chomera cha tiyi Camellia sinensis, choncho m’gulu la zakumwa za ChiChina amatchulidwa ngati choloŵa m’malo mwa tiyi (代用茶, dàiyòng chá), kutanthauza kuti ndi chakumwa chochokera ku zomera. Dera lalikulu la ulimi wa katundu wogulitsa ndi Pingli County (平利, Pínglì) m’chigawo cha Shaanxi, komanso madera a mapiri a Yunnan ndi Guangxi. M’moyo wa tsiku ndi tsiku, jiaogulan amamwa ngati chakumwa chotsitsimula komanso “chopepuka” cha tsiku ndi tsiku, ndipo chifukwa cha gulu lake la saponins, chomerachi chalandira dzina lachikhalidwe “ginseng wa kum’mwera” (南方人参, nánfāng rénshēn). Chakumwacho chimadziwika ndi kuwawa pang’ono komwe kumasanduka mwachangu kukoma kobwerera (回甘, huígān).

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

• Mtundu: choloŵa m’malo mwa tiyi, chakumwa chochokera ku zomera (代用茶, dàiyòng chá); botanical — si tiyi
• Dzina la Botanical: Gynostemma pentaphyllum (Thunb.) Makino
• Banja: mphonda (Cucurbitaceae)
• Malo opangira: masamba ndi mphukira zazing’ono za mmera (osati masamba a Camellia sinensis)
• Mayina achi China: 绞股蓝 (jiǎogǔlán); mayina achikhalidwe ndi a dera — 七叶胆 (qīyèdǎn), 五叶参 (wǔyèshēn); ku Japan chomerachi chimadziwika ngati amachazuru (甘茶蔓)
• Madera akuluakulu: Pingli (平利, Pínglì) ku Shaanxi (陕西, Shǎnxī); Yunnan (云南, Yúnnán); Guangxi (广西, Guǎngxī)

Ndikofunika kunena momveka: jiaogulan alibe masamba a tiyi. Iye ali m’gulu lodziyimira palokha la zakumwa za zitsamba za ChiChina — 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá), “tiyi zoloŵa m’malo,” zomwe amazipanga ndi kumwa ngati tiyi, koma amazichotsa ku zomera zina. Mkhalidwe umenewu supangitsa jiaogulan kukhala “choloŵa m’malo chachabe”: ali ndi mbiri yake yakale yazaka mazana ambiri, terroir yake, ukadaulo wake wa kuyanika, ndi chikhalidwe chake cha kupanga. Dzina lachikhalidwe “ginseng wa kum’mwera” limangosonyeza kuti m’chomerachi mwapezeka saponins ogwirizana ndi a ginseng, ndipo siliri chizindikiro cha zachipatala.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe:

• Kutchulidwa koyamba: buku la “Herbal Yopulumutsa ku Njala” (救荒本草, Jiùhuāng Běncǎo), lolembedwa ndi Prince Zhu Su (朱橚, Zhū Sù) ndi kufalitsidwa mu 1406
• Udindo woyambirira: chomera chakudya chakutchire cha “chaka cha njala”
• Chidwi chatsopano: theka lachiwiri la zaka za zana la 20, pambuyo pa kulekanitsa saponins

Mu herbal ya Ming 救荒本草 chomerachi chimalongosoledwa makamaka ngati chakudya, choyenera kudyedwa m’zaka zosakolola bwino, kutanthauza kuti poyamba jiaogulan ankawona ngati masamba akutchire, osati ngati mankhwala. Chidwi chokhazikika mwa iye ngati chakumwa chinayambira m’zaka za 1970-1980, pamene ofufuza a ku Japan, ndipo kenako a ku China, anasiyanitsa triterpene saponins (gypenosides) kuchokera ku masamba ndi kupeza kuti ena mwa iwo m’mapangidwe ake amafanana ndi ginsenosides a ginseng weniweni. Ndipamene chomeracho chinapatsidwa dzina loti “ginseng wa kum’mwera,” ndipo ku China kulima kwamaofesi ndi kupanga kwa chakumwa chopakidwa (保健茶, bǎojiàn chá — “tiyi wathanzi” m’lingaliro latsiku ndi tsiku) kunayambika.

3. Kufotokozera kwa Botanical ndi Malo Opangira:

• Mkhalidwe wa moyo: mmera wokwera wa herbaceous wokhala ndi ndodo zokakamira
• Masamba: ophatikizika ngati chikhatho, nthawi zambiri a masamba 5 (kawirikawiri 3, 7, kapena 9); dzina la mtundu pentaphyllum limatanthauza “wa masamba asanu”
• Maluwa: ang’ono, obiriwira-oyera; chomera ndi dioecious
• Zipatso: timabulosi tating’ono tozungulira tokhala ndi mtundu wakuda
• Malo opangira, gulu 1: 龙须 (lóngxū, “ndevu za chinjoka”) — nsonga zazizizi kwambiri za mphukira zokhala ndi ndodo ndi masamba osatseguka
• Malo opangira, gulu 2: masamba wamba — masamba okhwima ochokera ku mphukira

Malo opangira amalonda amagawidwa m’magulu aŵiri. “Ndevu za chinjoka” (龙须, lóngxū) ndi nsonga zopyapyala zofewa zokhala ndi ndodo, gulu lapamwamba kwambiri ndi lodula: chakumwa chochokera mmenemo ndi chofewa, chotsekemera, ndipo pafupifupi mulibe kuwawa kokhwima. Masamba wamba amapereka chakumwa cholemetsa, chodzaza, ndi chowawa kwambiri; ndi chotchipa ndipo chimapita kukapaka kwa misa. Kuchepa kwa mphukira yachichepere m’chisakanizo kumakhudza mwachindunji kukoma ndi mtengo.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

• Dera lachitsanzo: Pingli County (平利, Pínglì) m’boma la Ankang (安康, Ānkāng), chigawo cha Shaanxi — mapiri a Daba Mountain (大巴山, Dàbā Shān)
• Madera ena: mapiri a Yunnan ndi Guangxi, kumene mmerawo umapezeka ngati wakuthengo
• Mikhalidwe: nyengo yotentha ndi yachinyontho, kuwala kosalunjika ndi mthunzi wapakati, dothi lotayira ndi lotsika madzi
• Mawonekedwe opezera: monga wolimidwa (m’minda) komanso malo opangira akuthengo

Pingli ili kum’mwera kwa Shaanxi, m’dera la subtropical foothills la Daba Mountain ndi nyengo yofewa yachinyontho ndi nkhungu pafupipafupi, mikhalidwe yomwe imathandiza kudzikundikira kwa saponins. Kauntiyi imadziyika yokha ngati “kwawo kwa jiaogulan” (绞股蓝之乡, jiǎogǔlán zhī xiāng) ndipo ndi likulu la kusankha ndi kukonza kwa makampani. Ku Yunnan ndi Guangxi, minda yolimidwa ndi magulu akuthengo amapezeka; chomeracho chimapezeka kwambiri m’madera otentha a East ndi Southeast Asia.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga:

• Kututa: mphukira zazing’ono ndi masamba m’nyengo yotentha
• Kufota pang’ono: 摊晾 (tānliàng) — kuyala ndi kuyanitsa pang’ono malo opangira
• Kukhazikitsa kobiriwira: 杀青 (shāqīng) — kutentha kuti aimitse ma enzymes
• Kupiringiza: 揉捻 (róuniǎn) — kuumba masamba ndi kutulutsa madzi
• Kuyanitsa: mpaka chinyonthi chokhazikika chochepa

Kukonza kofala kwambiri kwa jiaogulan kumafanana mwaukadaulo ndi kupanga tiyi wobiriwira: malo opangira amafowotsedwa pang’ono, “kupha kobiriwira” ndi kutentha (杀青), kupiringizidwa (揉捻), ndi kuyanitsidwa. Chifukwa cha kukhazikitsa kwa ma enzymes, masamba amasunga mtundu wake wobiriwira ndipo satengera oxygen, pamene kupiringiza kumapatsa mawonekedwe ake opiringizika ndi kupangitsa chakumwa kukhala chosungunuka kwambiri. Gawo lina la katundu (makamaka wa kusamala kwanthawi zonse) limangoyanitsidwa mumthunzi popanda kupiringiza, masamba amenewo amakhala opepuka ndipo amapereka chakumwa cha zitsamba kwambiri. Padera, “ndevu za chinjoka” (龙须) zimasankhidwa ndipo amazituta ndi kuyanitsa mochenjera kwambiri kuti asunge kufewa ndi kutsekemera.

6. Makhalidwe a Organoleptic:

• Maonekedwe: masamba opiringizika obiriwira kwambiri ndi nsonga zopyapyala-ndodo
• Kununkhira kwa malo opangira owuma: zitsamba-nyemba, ndi kamvekedwe kakang’ono kotsekemera
• Kukoma: poyamba kuwawa komveka, kenako kutsekemera kobwerera koyera (回甘)
• Chakumwa: kuchokera ku chobiriwira chotuwa mpaka ku chagolidi-chobiriwira, chowonekera

Makhalidwe ofunika kwambiri a jiaogulan ndi kusiyana kwa kuwawa ndi kotsekemera. Kumeza koyamba kumawawa kwambiri, koma kuwawa kumachoka mwachangu, ndikusiya kutsekemera kwautali kwapambuyo (回甘, huígān), chomwe chimapangitsa kuti chakumwacho chiziyamikiridwa. Kwa “ndevu za chinjoka,” kusanja kumakondera kutsekemera; kwa masamba okhwima, kumakondera kuwawa. Kusiya malo opangira m’madzi otentha kwambiri kumawonjezera kuwawa, choncho mphamvu imayendetsedwa ndi nthawi ya kulumikizana.

7. Kapangidwe ka Chemical:

• Saponins (gypenosides): triterpene saponins a mtundu wa dammarane (绞股蓝皂苷, jiǎogǔlán zàogān); ena mwa iwo m’mapangidwe ake ndi ofanana ndi ginsenosides a ginseng
• Flavonoids: mwachitsanzo, rutin ndi mankhwala ogwirizana
• Polysaccharides
• Zina: ma amino acid, mavitamini, macro- ndi microelements

Chizindikiro chachikulu cha chemical cha chomeracho ndi gypenosides, gulu la triterpene saponins; kufanana kwawo kwapangidwe ndi ginsenosides ndiko kunapereka mwayi wofanizira ndi ginseng. Kupatula saponins, masamba amakhala ndi flavonoids, polysaccharides, ma amino acid aulere, ndi mchere. Kapangidwe kake ndi gawo la saponins zimadalira mtundu ndi chemotype ya chomeracho, dera la kulima, ndi gawo la mphukira: nthawi zambiri nsonga zofewa ndi masamba zimakhala ndi magawo amtengo wapatali kuposa magawo okhwima.

8. Katundu Wopindulitsa:

• Momwe amaganizira m’moyo watsiku ndi tsiku: ku China, jiaogulan amamwa ngati chakumwa chothandizira thupi lonse, “chopatsa mphamvu,” ndi chotsitsimula cha tsiku ndi tsiku; mwambo wachikhalidwe umamuyandikitsa ndi ginseng
• Zomwe sayansi ikuphunzira: gypenosides ndi zotulutsa za Gynostemma zikufufuzidwa mu ntchito za labotale ndi zachipatala, komabe izi sizimatsimikizira zotsatira zokhazikika, zotsimikiziridwa mosakayikira za machiritso a chakumwa cha tsiku ndi tsiku
• Mkhalidwe: chakudya (chakumwa), osati mankhwala

Nkoyenera kunena momveka: jiaogulan ndi chakumwa cha chakudya, ndipo palibe lonjezo la machiritso lomwe lingaperekedwe. Zoti chomeracho chili ndi saponins ofanana ndi a ginseng, pa lokha, sizipangitsa chakumwacho kukhala mankhwala, ndipo zonena za thanzi la ogulitsa zimapitirira malire a nkhani ya encyclopedia. Mwa machenjezo odziwika bwino mopanda tsankho nkoyenera kutchula kudziletsa mu kuchuluka; kusamala pa nthawi ya pakati ndi kuyamwitsa (palibe deta yokwanira); ndi chisamaliro kwa iwo amene amamwa mankhwala nthawi zonse, m’mikhalidwe yotere nkoyenera kukambirana zakumwa ndi dokotala. Uku ndi kutchula kwa machenjezo, osati kuvomereza kapena mlingo.

9. Kapangidwe:

• Mlingo: pafupifupi 3-5 g wa malo opangira owuma pa 300-500 ml a madzi (kwa “ndevu za chinjoka” — kumapeto kotsika)
• Kutentha: 85-95 °C; masamba okhwima amatha kupirira madzi pafupifupi otentha kwambiri, nsonga zofewa nzabwino kuthira ndi madzi atazizira pang’ono
• Ziwiya: kapu yagalasi kapena ketulo, gaiwan, thermos
• Nthawi: chakumwa choyamba 1-3 mphindi, kenako molingana ndi kukoma
• Kuthira: imatha kupirira kupanga kangapo; malo opangira amphamvu owawa n’abwino kupanga kwaufupi ndi pafupipafupi
• Kutumiza kozizira: kumwa kozizira nkotheka (maola angapo m’madzi ozizira) — chakumwa chimakhala chofewa ndi chotsekemera, pafupifupi chopanda kuwawa

Mwachizoloŵezi nkosavuta kupanga jiaogulan mwachindunji mu kapu yagalasi kapena mu thermos: malo opangira opakatikati amathiridwa ndi madzi otentha ndipo amawonjezerapo madzi pamene akumwa. Kuti achepetse kuwawa, gwiritsani madzi otentha pang’ono ndipo nthawi yochepa ya kulumikizana, kapena sinthani kupita ku kumwa kozizira. M’chilimwe, kutumiza koziziritsidwa kumatchuka: chakumwa kuchokera ku “ndevu za chinjoka,” chophikidwa m’madzi ozizira ndi kuziziritsidwa, chimakhala chotsekemera ndi chotsitsimula.

10. Kusunga:

• Mikhalidwe: malo owuma, ozizira, amdima, kutali ndi fungo lina
• Chidebe: chotsekedwa mwamphamvu, chopanda kuwala
• Adani a malo opangira: chinyontho, kuwala, kutentha, fungo lachilendo

Masamba owuma a jiaogulan amatenga chinyontho ndipo amayamwa mosavuta chinyontho ndi fungo, choncho amasungidwa mu chidebe chosindikizidwa. Akanyowa, malo opangira amataya kununkhira, mtundu wobiriwira, ndipo amapeza mawonekedwe ofumbidwa. Monga momwe zimakhalira ndi zosakaniza zambiri za zitsamba zouma, jiaogulan n’kwabwino kumwa ali watsopano, pakapita nthawi kununkhira ndi kutsekemera kwake kwa pambuyo kumachepa.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonyenga:

• Cholinga cha mtengo wogulitsira ochuluka: masamba wamba — pafupifupi 80 ¥/kg (mtengo ndi wongoyerekeza, umadalira zokolola ndi gulu)
• Gulu lapamwamba: “ndevu za chinjoka” (龙须) zimawononga ndalama zambiri kuposa masamba wamba
• Momwe malo opangira enieni amaonekera: masamba opiringizika obiriwira kwambiri ndi nsonga, kununkhira koyera kwa zitsamba-kutsekemera, m’kukoma — kuwawa ndi kusintha kwa kutsekemera kwapambuyo
• Kusintha kwachibadwa: kugulitsa masamba okhwima ngati “ndevu za chinjoka”; kusakaniza masamba ena otchipa achilendo; kupereka malo opangira ochokera kwina ngati a ku Pingli

Kusiyana pakati pa magulu ndiye gwero lalikulu la mitengo yowonjezera ndi zinyengo: “ndevu za chinjoka” zenizeni zimakhala ndi nsonga zofewa zofanana, pamene pansi pa dzina limeneli nthawi zambiri amagulitsa chisakanizo ndi masamba okhwima. Zoyenera kuchenjeretsa ndi zidutswa za zomera zachilendo, kununkhira kwafumbi kapena kofumbidwa, komanso kusowa kotheratu kwa kayendedwe kakuwawa-kotsekemera m’kukoma. Cholinga chatchulidwa (pafupifupi 80 ¥/kg pa masamba wamba) chiyenera kumveka ngati dongosolo la kukula kwa mtengo pamlingo wogulitsira ochuluka, osati ngati lonjezo la mtengo wogulitsira pang’ono.

12. Zinthu Zosangalatsa:

• Dzina la mtundu pentaphyllum (“wa masamba asanu”) limasonyeza masamba ake okhala ndi timasamba tating’ono tisanu, ngakhale kuti amatha kukhala kuchokera ku atatu mpaka asanu ndi anayi.
• Pingli County ku Shaanxi imadziyika yokha mwalamulo ngati “kwawo kwa jiaogulan” (绞股蓝之乡).
• M’mwambo wa ku Japan, chomerachi chimadziwika ngati amachazuru (甘茶蔓, “mmera wa tiyi wotsekemera”), ndipo kuyambira ndi kuphunzira kwa saponins ake m’zaka za 1970 kunayambira chidwi chamakono pa chikhalidwe.
• Dzina loti “ginseng wa kum’mwera” (南方人参) ndi lachikhalidwe ndipo limangosonyeza ubale wa saponins, osati kufanana ndi ginseng.
• Limodzi mwa mayina akale achi China, 七叶胆 (qīyèdǎn, “ndulu ya masamba asanu ndi aŵiri”), limanena mwachindunji za kuwawa m’kukoma.

Pomaliza:

Jiaogulan ndi choyimira chodziwika cha gulu la ChiChina la 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá): chakumwa chomwe chimapangidwa ndi kumwa ngati tiyi, koma chomwe si tiyi m’njira ya botanical, chifukwa chilibe masamba a Camellia sinensis. Kumbuyo kwake kuli mwambo wake weniweni — kuchokera ku kutchulidwa m’herbal ya Ming “ya chaka cha njala” mpaka ku minda yamakono ya Pingli, — ukadaulo wake, womwe uli pafupi ndi wa tiyi wobiriwira, ndi mbiri yodziwika ya kukoma ndi kuwawa ndi kutsekemera kobwerera kwautali.

Kumamuwona molondola osati ngati “choloŵa m’malo” mwa tiyi, koma ngati chakumwa chodziyimira palokha chochokera ku zitsamba chokhala ndi geography yomveka ndi kusanja kwa malo opangira — kuchokera ku “ndevu za chinjoka” zofewa mpaka ku masamba wamba. Dzina lachikhalidwe “ginseng wa kum’mwera” ndi chidwi cha sayansi pa gypenosides zimawonjezera kutchuka kwa chomeracho, koma sizisandutsa chakumwa chatsiku ndi tsiku kukhala mankhwala — ndipo ndi mkhalidwe womwewu, monga chakumwa chowawa-chotsekemera chodekha chatsiku ndi tsiku, jiaogulan amakhala ndi malo ake mu chikhalidwe cha tsiku ndi tsiku cha ChiChina.

the teas described here are available from teamotea