guó yǒu lín

Kumtunda kwenikweni m’nkhalango zaboma za phiri la Iwu (易武, yì wǔ) kumamera mitengo yomwe imapereka sheng pu’er yodula kwambiri komanso yovuta kupezeka m’chigawo chonse cha Xishuangbanna. Pakati pawo pali 薄荷塘 (bò hé táng, ‘dziwe la timbewu ta timbewu tonunkhira’) — chimake cha kukometsedwa bwino, pamene oyandikana nawo a Guafengzhai ndi Tongqinghe amatsogolera kalembedwe ka ‘nthaka yakuthengo’ ka nkhalango zaboma.

Malo: Iwu ndi nkhalango zake zaboma

Phiri la Iwu lili m’boma la Mengla (勐腊) m’chigawo cha Xishuangbanna (Yunnan) ndipo ndi la gulu lodziwika bwino la 古六大茶山 (gǔ liù dà chá shān, ‘mapiri akale asanu ndi limodzi a tiyi’). Ngati kalembedwe ka kumadzulo, ka Menghai (Lao Banzhang, Lao Man’e) katchuka ndi mphamvu ndi kuwawa, Iwu m’mbiri amadziwika kuti ndi dziko la kufewa, kutsekemera kwa madzi ndi kukometsedwa kwapakamwa kwanthawi yayitali — chinthu chomwe Atshaina amachitcha 韵 (yùn), ‘kubwerezabwereza kwakulawa kwapambuyo’. Chimake cha mawonekedwe achikale amenewa ndi mudzi wa Mahai (麻黑) ndi mtanda wake wofewa, madzi otsekemera ndi yùn yayitali.

Gulu lapadera mkati mwa Iwu limapangidwa ndi 国有林 (guó yǒu lín) — nkhalango za boma, zosungidwa. Izi sizobzala m’minda, koma mitengo yakale ya tiyi, yomwazika pakati pa zomera zakuthengo za m’nkhalango, pamalo otsetsereka akutali, kumene kuli kovuta kufika. Mitengo pano sinasamalidwe mwamphamvu, imamera mosakanikirana ndi denga la nkhalango, ndipo malo akuthengo amenewa ndi omwe amapangitsa khalidwe lake lodziwika la ‘kumveka kwa nkhalango’ — 野韵 (yě yùn) ndi kuzizirika kwenikweni kwa mtanda.

薄荷塘 — dziwe la timbewu ta timbewu tonunkhira

薄荷塘 ndi malo a m’mudzi (村寨) apamwamba kwambiri, okhudzana ndi Iwu ndi nkhalango zake zaboma. M’gulu la THE TEA ili mu giredi ya S+ — kutanthauza pakati pa zosowa kwenikweni ndi mitengo yapamwamba kwambiri, mofanana ndi Lao Banzhang ndi Mansong yachifumu.

Zopangira ndi 古树 (gǔ shù), mitengo yakale. Mbiri ya 薄荷塘 imafotokozedwa ngati 清雅花蜜 (qīng yǎ huā mì) — khalidwe ‘loyera la maluwa ndi uchi’ lomwe limakhala ndi kumveka kozizira konga kwa timbewu ta timbewu tonunkhira (薄荷凉, bò hé liáng) ndi kukometsedwa bwino, kusalala kwa kapangidwe kake (细腻, xì nì). Kuzizira kwatsopano kumeneku ndiko kunapatsa malowa dzina. Mosiyana ndi tiyi zankhalango zaboma zothithikitsa, zodzaza ndi thupi, 薄荷塘 satenga ndi mphamvu, koma ndi kumveka bwino, kukometsedwa kofewa konga nsalu zosokedwa mwaluso ndi kulawa kwapambuyo koyera, kwanthawi yayitali.

Kuchuluka kwake n’kochepa kwambiri, kufika pa mitengo n’kovuta, ndipo izi zimasandutsa 薄荷塘 kukhala tiyi yodula kwambiri ku Iwu — udindo womwe amausunga pamsika ngati chisonyezero chenicheni cha mtengo ndi kusowa.

Guafengzhai ndi madera ake

刮风寨 (guā fēng zhài, Guafengzhai) — mudzi wa anthu a mtundu wa Yao (瑶族), womwe ulinso wa nkhalango zaboma za Iwu, giredi S. Tiyi zake zimadziwika ndi kubwerezabwereza kwamphamvu ‘kwakuthengo’ (野韵强) ndi fungo la maluwa ndi uchi. Mkati mwa Guafengzhai muli madera ang’onoang’ono odziwika (片区): 茶王树 (chá wáng shù), 白沙河 (bái shā hé) ndi 冷水河 (lěng shuǐ hé).

Pakati pawo 茶王树 (‘mtengo — mfumu ya tiyi’) imadziwika padera: awa ndi malo a giredi S+, omwe amapereka tiyi ndi fungo lalitali la maluwa-zipatso-uchi (花果蜜香高扬), thupi lothithikitsa la mtanda (汤厚) ndi mphamvu ya tiyi yowonekera bwino (气强, qì qiáng). Pophatikiza kutalika kwa fungo ndi mphamvu, 茶王树 ndi imodzi mwa nsonga za mapiri onse a tiyi akum’mawa.

Tongqinghe ndi malo ena ankhalaango zaboma

铜箐河 (tóng qìng hé, Tongqinghe) — wina woimira nkhalango zaboma, giredi A. Mbiri yake ndi ‘ya kuthengo, yozizira, yothithikitsa’ (野, 凉, 厚): thupi la tiyi yankhalango yaboma pophatikiza ndi kutsitsimula kwenikweni kwa mtanda kuja.

Pafupi palinso zitsanzo zanthano za m’munda za Iwu, zomwe sizili zankhalango zaboma, koma zimapanga mawonekedwe onse a kulawa kwa chigawochi:

• Mahai (麻黑, S) — Iwu yachikale: mtanda wofewa, madzi otsekemera, yùn yayitali.
• Wangong (弯弓, wān gōng, S) — pakati pa dera lambiri la 曼撒 (màn sā): fungo la maluwa ndi uchi, kukometsedwa bwino ndi kukhuta.
• Luoshuidong (落水洞, luò shuǐ dòng, A) — wotsekemera wofewa, wa uchi; mudziwu umadziwika ndi nthano yake ya ‘mfumu-mtengo’.

Mitundu ndi mitengo

Zopangira ndi tiyi ya masamba akuluakulu a Yunnan (大叶种, dà yè zhǒng) yochokera ku mitengo yakale. Kwa malo ankhalaango zaboma, nthawi zambiri imeneyi ndi mitengo yakale yakale yomwe ili m’malo amodzi m’malo a nkhalango, osati minda yothithikitsa. Malo akuthengo, kutalika, kusowa kwa kulowererapo kwamphamvu ndi ukalamba wa mizu zimapereka mtanda wokhazikika, wamchere ndi kubwerezabwereza kwenikweni kwa nkhalango ndi kuzizira pakhosi.

Kukonza

薄荷塘 ndi oyandikana nawo ndi 生普 (shēng pǔ), pu’er yaiwisi (yosafulumizitsa kuvunda). Njira yachikale: kutola masamba ang’onoang’ono kuchokera ku mitengo yakale → kufowotsa pang’ono → kuletsa kubiriwira 杀青 (shā qīng) mu mbiya → kupotoza 揉捻 (róu niǎn) → kuyanika padzuwa, zomwe zimatulutsa chinthu chosakonzeka 晒青毛茶 (shài qīng máo chá). Kenako zopangirazo zimafinyidwa kukhala makeke (bǐng) kapena mawonekedwe ena ndikusungidwa kuti zikule mwachilengedwe. Kwa zitsanzo zankhalango zaboma, kuletsa kusakaza mosamala, osati ‘kupha’ fungo labwino, ndi kuyanika padzuwa koyera ndikofunika kwambiri — izi ndizo zimasunga kumveka bwino kwa maluwa ndi uchi ndi kutsitsimula kwa timbewu ta timbewu tonunkhira, zomwe 薄荷塘 imayamikiridwira.

Miyezo

Pu’er ndi imodzi mwa zinthu zotetezedwa ngati chizindikiro cha malo a chigawo cha Yunnan, ndipo imagawidwa m’mitundu yaiwisi (shēng) ndi yakucha (shú) ndipo imagwirizana ndi zopangira za masamba akuluakulu a Yunnan. Madera a mlingo wa Iwu ndi nkhalango zake zaboma nthawi zambiri amagulitsidwa ngati tiyi yochokera kumalo amodzi (single-origin) yotchula malo enieni ang’ono; kwenikweni, chiyambi chang’ono, osati muyezo wamba, ndicho chimatsimikiza mtengo ndi chidziwitso pano.

Kulawa ndi kupanga

薄荷塘 imavumbuluka ndi mtanda wowala wagolide wokhala ndi fungo la maluwa ndi uchi, mpweya wozizira ‘wonga timbewu ta timbewu tonunkhira’ m’manunkhira apamwamba ndi kapangidwe kosa, kofewa konga silika. Oyandikana nawo a m’nkhalango zaboma amawonjezera kuthengo ndi kuthithikitsa kochulukirapo: Guafengzhai — 野韵 yodzaza ndi fungo lotuluka, Tongqinghe — thupi ndi kuzizira.

Malangizo a kutsanulira:

• Chotengera: mbiya yadothi ya Jinsha kapena gaiwan yadothi yoyera.
• Madzi: ofewa, pafupifupi 95 — 100 °C.
• Mlingo: pafupifupi 7 — 8 g pa 110 — 130 ml.
• Kutsuka: kutsuka kamodzi kwachidule.
• Kupanga: kutsanulira koyamba kwa masekondi 5 — 10, kenako ndikuwonjezera nthawi; mitengo yakale ya Iwu imapirira kutsanulira kochuluka, osataya kutsekemera ndi kubwerezabwereza.

Ndikoyenera kuyang’anitsitsa 喉韵 (hóu yùn) — kumverera kwa kuzizira ndi kutsekemera, kumatsikira kummero; ndi chimene chimasiyanitsa zenizeni za nkhalango zaboma.

Mbiri ndi chikhalidwe

Iwu — ndi mtima wa mbiri ya mapiri akale asanu ndi limodzi a tiyi ndi amodzi mwa mfundo zazikulu za Njira Yakale ya Tiyi. Malo a nkhalango zaboma monga 薄荷塘, 刮风寨 ndi 铜箐河 adalowa mgulu lamakono lamakono posachedwa, m’nthawi ya kutchuka kwa sheng pu’er yochokera kumalo amodzi: kuvuta kufika, kuchuluka kochepa ndi kutsitsimula ‘kwankhalango’ kodziwika bwino kunawasandutsa mofulumira kukhala zitsanzo zosonkhanitsidwa. Guafengzhai panthawiyi akukhalabe mudzi wamoyo wa anthu a mtundu wa Yao, omwe nkhalango za tiyi ndi gawo la chikhalidwe chawo.

Momwe mungasiyanitsire

• Chiyambi chenicheni cha malo ndi chofunika kwambiri kuposa ‘dzina la Iwu’. 薄荷塘 yeniyeni ndi malo enieni a nkhalango yaboma yomwe imatulutsa zochepa kwambiri; ‘magulu aakulu a 薄荷塘’ mwachidziwitso ndi okayikitsa.
• Kuzizira kwonga timbewu ta timbewu tonunkhira ndi kukometsedwa bwino. 薄荷塘 imadziwika ndi kuphatikiza kwa fungo loyera la maluwa ndi uchi ndi mpweya wozizira ndi kukometsedwa kofewa konga silika — osati ndi mphamvu kapena kuwawa.
• Nkhalango yaboma motsutsana ndi munda. Guafengzhai ndi Tongqinghe amapereka mbiri yakuthwa, yothithikitsa, yozizira (野韵), pamene Mahai ndi Luoshuidong amapereka kutsekemera kofewa kwa Iwu yachikale yakumunda.
• Kubwerezabwereza ndikofunika kuposa mphamvu. Iwu ikukhudza 韵 ndi kuzizira kwa pakhosi; ngati chomwe chili mu kapu ndi kuwawa kolemetsa konga ku Menghai, siwo mawonekedwe a Iwu.