bù lǎng shēng chá

Bulang Sheng Cha (布朗生茶, Bùlǎng shēng chá) — ndi tiyi yobiriwira (yosafulidwa) ya pu’er, yopangidwa kuchokera ku masamba a mitengo ya tiyi ya m’mapiri a Bulang (布朗山, Bùlǎng shān) kum’mwera kwa chigawo cha Menghai (勐海县, Měnghǎi xiàn) m’chigawo chodzilamulira cha Xishuangbanna Dai m’chigawo cha Yunnan. Awa ndi amodzi mwa madera odziwika bwino kwambiri padziko lonse la sheng pu’er, otchuka chifukwa cha kukoma kwake kwamphamvu, kokwanira, ndi kowawa kwambiri komwe kumasanduka mwachangu kukhala kukoma kobwerera m’kamwa kwamphamvu (回甘, huígān). Ndi kumene kuli midzi yotchuka ya Lao Banzhang (老班章, Lǎo Bānzhāng) ndi Lao Man’e (老曼峨, Lǎo Màn’é), yomwe imakhazikitsa chitsanzo cha mphamvu ndi kapangidwe ka gulu lonse. M’mapiriwa ndi kwawo kwa anthu a mtundu wa Bulang (布朗族, Bùlǎngzú) — mbadwa za Pu wakale (濮人, Púrén), omwe amadziwika kuti ndi ena mwa oyamba kulima tiyi ku East Asia. Pansi pa dzina la “Bulang” pamsika, samaphatikiza mtundu wina wake, koma kalembedwe ka tiyi, kotsimikiziridwa ndi komwe masamba ake amachokera kumapiri awa.

1. Gulu ndi Chiyambi:

Mtundu: Pu’er yobiriwira (生普洱, shēng pǔ’ěr; mwachidule 生普, shēng pǔ), ya m’gulu la pu’er (普洱茶, pǔ’ěrchá).
Kusiyana ndi shu pu’er: Sheng imakalamba mwachilengedwe pang’onopang’ono popanda kuikidwa m’chinyezi chochita kupanga (渥堆, wòduī), chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga pu’er yokalamba (shu).
Chiyambi: Mapiri a Bulang, mzinda wa Bulashan-Bulang (布朗山布朗族乡, Bùlǎngshān Bùlǎngzú xiāng), chigawo cha Menghai, dera la Xishuangbanna (西双版纳, Xīshuāngbǎnnà), chigawo cha Yunnan (云南省, Yúnnán shěng), China. Derali lili kum’mwera kwenikweni kwa Menghai, m’malire ndi Myanmar.
Mkhalidwe wa malo: Kalembedwe/terroir — kutanthauzira tiyi malinga ndi komwe masamba ake amakula, osati mtundu wa botanical.
Malamulo oyendetsera: Pu’er monga chinthu chokhala ndi chizindikiro cha geographical imayendetsedwa ndi mulingo wa dziko la GB/T 22111-2008 “Chinthu chokhala ndi chizindikiro cha geographical. Pu’er”; masamba a m’mapiri a Bulang ali m’dera loyambira lomwe linafotokozedwa ndi mulingowu.

2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo la Chikhalidwe: Phiri la Bulang limatchedwa dzina la anthu a mtundu wa Bulang — amodzi mwa mafuko akale kwambiri olima tiyi ku Yunnan, omwe ali ndi chibadwa ndi chikhalidwe cholumikizana ndi Pu wakale (濮人). Amakhulupirira kuti ndi anthu awa omwe anali m’gulu loyamba kuyamba kuweta ndi kulima mtengo wa tiyi kum’mwera chakumadzulo kwa China. Mudzi wa Lao Man’e, wokhala ndi anthu a mtundu wa Bulang, malinga ndi mwambo wakumaloko, wakhalapo kwa zaka zoposa chikwi ndipo umasunga minda ya mitengo yakale ya tiyi.

Mbiri ya udindo: Masamba a m’mapiri a Bulang akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito kale ndi opanga tiyi a Menghai, ndipo fakitale ya Menghai (勐海茶厂, Měnghǎi cháchǎng, dzina la malonda 大益, Dàyì) inkagula masamba a m’derali popanga mitundu yosakaniza.
Mitundu ya anthu m’midzi: Lao Man’e ndi mudzi wakale wa Bulang; Lao Banzhang makamaka amakhala ndi anthu a mtundu wa Hani (哈尼族, Hānízú, nthambi yakumaloko ya Aini).
Kutchuka kwamakono: Kutchuka kwa anthu ambiri kwa Lao Banzhang kunabwera m’zaka za m’ma 2000 pamodzi ndi kukula kwa kufunika kwa tiyi yochokera ku mitengo yakale (古树, gǔshù), pomwe zitsanzo zake zinakhala zina za zodula kwambiri m’gululi.

3. Kufotokozera Kwachomera ndi Masamba:

Mtundu: Camellia sinensis yamtundu wa assamica (Camellia sinensis var. assamica), mtundu wa masamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan (云南大叶种, Yúnnán dàyèzhǒng).
Maonekedwe a chomera: Mitundu ya mitengo (乔木, qiáomù) ndi yofanana ndi mitengo; amapezeka mitengo yakale (古树, gǔshù), mitengo yachichepere ya “m’munda” ndi minda ya masamba a m’mapiri (台地茶, táidìchá).
Tsamba: Lalikulu, lamnofu, la mitsempha yoonekera bwino ndi makulidwe okhuthala, lolemera ndi polyphenols — khalidwe lodziwika la mitundu ya masamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan.

Kusiyana pakati pa masamba ochokera ku mitengo yazaka zambiri ndi ochokera m’minda ya m’mapiri ndi kwakukulu: masamba a mitengo yakale amapereka madzi okhuthala, ozama, ndi odzaza ndi mphamvu, pamene masamba a m’mapiri amamveka mophweka komanso mokwiya kwambiri m’kuwawa kwake.

4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima:

Kutalika: Pafupifupi 1200–2000 m pamwamba pa nyanja; midzi yofunika ya tiyi ili m’mwamba mwa madera awa.
Nyengo: Ya subtropical monsoon — chifunga chochuluka, chinyezi chambiri, kusintha kwa kutentha kwa masana ndi usiku, nyengo yayitali ya kumera.
Nthaka: Makamaka nthaka zofiira ndi za laterite zotulutsa madzi bwino.
Midzi/madera ofunika: Lao Banzhang (老班章), Xin Banzhang (新班章, Xīn Bānzhāng), Lao Man’e (老曼峨), Man’e (曼峨), Bada (巴达, Bādá), komanso Hekai (贺开, Hèkāi) yomwe nthawi zambiri imawerengedwa kuti ndi ya derali.

Maonekedwe a madera amasiyana. Lao Banzhang amayamikiridwa chifukwa cha chikhalidwe chake “champhamvu” — madzi okhuthala, mphamvu zamphamvu, ndi kuwawa komwe kumasanduka mwachangu kukhala kukoma. Lao Man’e amadziwika chifukwa cha kugawika kwa “tiyi yowawa” (苦茶, kǔchá) yokhala ndi kuwawa koonekera kwambiri, kosalekeza, ndi “tiyi yotsekemera” (甜茶, tiánchá) yofewa. Kusiyanitsa kumeneku pakati pa midziyi ndi komwe kumapanga mbiri ya Bulang monga malo amphamvu.

5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga: Kupanga kumatsata njira yachikale ya pu’er yobiriwira, kutulutsa maocha wouma ndi dzuwa (晒青毛茶, shàiqīng máochá), yemwe kenaka amamfinya.

Kuthyola (采摘, cǎizhāi): Masamba ang’onoang’ono okhala ndi khanda limodzi kapena awiri kapena atatu, makamaka okolola m’nyengo yachisanu ndi yophukira.
Kufowoketsa/kutambasula (摊晾, tānliàng; 萎凋, wěidiāo): Tsamba latsopano limayanika ndi kuchepetsa chinyezi.
Kutseka kubiriwira (杀青, shāqīng): Kutenthetsa m’mphika kapena ng’oma pa kutentha kwapakati — kokwanira kuletsa oxidation, koma osati kuwononga ma enzyme onse, zomwe ndizofunika kuti tiyi ikalambire pambuyo pake.
Kukulunga (揉捻, róuniǎn): Kuphwanya kapangidwe ka ma cell ndi kupatsa tsamba maonekedwe.
Kuyanika padzuwa (晒青, shàiqīng): Kuyanika kwachilengedwe, kutulutsa maocha.
Kutenthetsa ndi nthunzi ndi kumfinya (蒸压, zhēngyā): Kuumba kukhala makeke (饼茶, bǐngchá, chachikale 357 g), mabotolo (沱茶, tuóchá) kapena njerwa (砖茶, zhuānchá) ndikuyanikanso pambuyo pake.

6. Makhalidwe a Kununkhira ndi Kukoma:

Tsamba louma: Lalikulu, lobiriwira kwambiri kapena lotuwa-biriwira, ndi imvi pa makhanda a masamba apamwamba.
Madzi: Kwa tiyi yachichepere, achikasu-mpaka-golide, ndipo pakapita zaka zakukalamba amakhala ndi mtundu wozama wa amber.
Kununkhira: Tiyi yatsopano yachichepere — yamaluwa-udzu, yokhala ndi timadzi ta uchi, udzu wotenthedwa ndi dzuwa, ndi fungo laling’ono la utomoni; m’kupita kwa nthawi imasanduka kukhala zipatso zouma ndi matabwa.
Kukoma: Kokhuthala, koyang’ana, ndi kuwawa koonekera (苦, kǔ) ndi kukoka kwa mkamwa (涩, sè), komwe kumasanduka mwachangu kukhala kukoma kobwerera kosalekeza (回甘) ndi malovu ochuluka (生津, shēngjīn).
Mphamvu: Mphamvu yamphamvu ya tiyi (茶气, cháqì) — chimodzi mwa zifukwa zazikulu zomwe derali limadziwikira.
Kukoma kotsalira: Kwa nthawi yayitali, koyera, kotsekemera-chitsulo; masamba abwino amasunga kukoma kwake pa madzi ambiri.

7. Kapangidwe ka Mankhwala:

Polyphenols (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): Okwera, pafupifupi 28–35 % ya kulemera kouma — mlingo wokwera wamba kwa mitundu ya masamba akuluakulu a ku Yunnan; amayambitsa kukoka kwa mkamwa ndi kuthekera kwa kukalamba.
Catechins (儿茶素, érchásù): Gawo lalikulu la polyphenols; amatsimikizira kuwawa ndi kukoka kwa tiyi yachichepere.
Caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): Pafupifupi 3–5 %; amapereka mphamvu yolimbikitsa.
Amino acid (氨基酸, ānjīsuān), kuphatikiza theanine (茶氨酸, chá’ānsuān): Amapereka kukoma ndi umami, kufewetsa kuwawa.

Pakukalamba (陈化, chénhuà), polyphenols amasanduka pang’onopang’ono ndi kusintha, kapangidwe kake kamasintha: kuwawa ndi kukoka kumafewetsedwa, kukoma kumakhala kozama ndi kozungulira, madzi amakhala akuda. Miyezo yeniyeni imadalira malo, chaka, ndi momwe amasungira, choncho iyenera kuonedwa ngati mlingo wongoyerekeza.

8. Zopindulitsa:

Kulimbitsa: Kuwoneka bwino chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa caffeine ndi polyphenols.
Mphamvu ya antioxidant: Imayambitsidwa ndi kuchuluka kwa polyphenols.
Kugaya chakudya: M’mwambo wa China, sheng pu’er yamphamvu imayamikiridwa ngati tiyi yothandiza pambuyo pa chakudya chamafuta ambiri.

Tiyenera kukumbukira kuti Bulang wachichepere ndi wamphamvu kwambiri ndi wodzaza, choncho anthu omwe ali ndi mimba yosamva bwino komanso omwe amakhudzidwa kwambiri ndi caffeine salangizidwa kumwa popanda chakudya komanso usiku. Izi ndi zambiri zokhazikika ndipo sizilowa m’malo mwa uphungu wa dokotala.

9. Kupanga:

Chombo: Gaiwan (盖碗, gàiwǎn) kuti azitha kuwongolera bwino kapena teapot ya Yixing (紫砂壶, zǐshāhú) yopangidwa ndi dothi kuti madzi akhale ozungulira bwino.
Mlingo: Pafupifupi 7–8 g pa 100–150 ml (njira ya gongfu).
Madzi: Ofewa, kutentha 95–100 °C; kwa tiyi yachichepere, makamaka yowawa kwambiri, mutha kutsitsa kufika 90–95 °C kuti muchepetse kukwiya kwake.
Kutsuka (洗茶, xǐchá): Mwamsanga kamodzi — masekondi 3–5, tayani.
Kuthira: Madzi oyamba mwachidule, masekondi 5–10, kenaka nthawi imawonjezedwa pang’onopang’ono. Masamba abwino a mitengo yakale amatha kuthira madzi 10 kapena kupitilira.

Uphungu wothandiza: ndi Bulang wachichepere, ndibwino kuthira mwachangu ndi kusasiya tsamba litanyowa — motero kuwawa kumamasulidwa m’njira yowongoleredwa ndipo sikubisa kukoma kobwerera. Pofanizira madera pakulawa (mwachitsanzo, Lao Banzhang ndi Lao Man’e), gaiwan ndi yabwino chifukwa siisunga fungo lapitalo.

10. Kusunga:

Mtundu: Kusunga kouma (干仓, gāncāng) ngati njira yayikulu; kusunga kwa chinyezi (湿仓, shīcāng) kumafulumizitsa kukalamba, koma kumasintha kukoma ndipo kuli ndi chiopsezo cha kutera.
Kutentha: Pafupifupi 20–30 °C, popanda kusintha kwadzidzidzi.
Chinyezi: Cholingana, pafupifupi 60–70 %.
Mikhalidwe: Malo opumira mpweya opanda fungo lachilendo, kutali ndi kuwala kwachindunji ndi magwero a chinyezi.
Kuthekera: Masamba a Bulang okhuthala, olemera ndi polyphenols amawonedwa ngati abwino kuti asungidwe kwa nthawi yayitali — pakapita zaka, kuwawa kumafewetsedwa, ndipo kukoma kumazama.

11. Mtengo ndi Zonyenga:

Mlingo: Wotakata kwambiri. Masamba wamba a m’mapiri kapena a m’munda a m’mapiri a Bulang amapezeka pamtengo wokwanira, pamene zitsanzo za mitengo yakale, makamaka Lao Banzhang, ndi zina mwa pu’er zobiriwira zodula kwambiri pamsika.
Chifukwa cha kusiyana: Mtengo umadalira kwambiri mudzi weniweni, zaka za mitengo, nyengo yokolola, ndi chaka.

Lao Banzhang ndi imodzi mwa tiyi zonyengedwa kwambiri ku China: pansi pa dzina lake, nthawi zambiri amagulitsa masamba a madera oyandikana nawo, otsika mtengo, kapena masamba a m’minda ya m’mapiri. Sizingatheke kuzindikira chonyenga pogwiritsa ntchito chiphukacho chokha, choncho muyenera kudalira mbiri ya wogulitsa, kuthekera kotsata komwe tiyi yachokera, ndi tiyi yomwe ili mu kapu. Bulang weniweni wa mitengo yakale amadziwika ndi madzi okhuthala, kuwawa kwamphamvu koma koyera komwe kumasanduka mwachangu ndi kukoma kobwerera kwa nthawi yayitali, kupirira madzi ambiri, ndi mphamvu zowonekera. Mtengo wotsika wokayikitsa wokhala ndi dzina lalikulu la mudzi, kukoma kwafulati ndi kufupikitsa, ndi “kutopa” mwamsanga kwa madzi ndi zizindikiro zomwe zimasonyeza kuti chiyambi sichikugwirizana ndi zomwe zanenedwa.

12. Zinthu Zochititsa Chidwi:

Phiri la dzina la mtundu wa anthu: mapiriwa amatchedwa dzina la a Bulang, koma mudzi wake wotchuka kwambiri, Lao Banzhang, umakhala makamaka ndi anthu a mtundu wa Hani (Aini).
Chitsanzo chowawa: Lao Man’e adadziwika chifukwa cha kuwawa kwamphamvu kwa “tiyi yowawa” (苦茶) kotero kuti idakhala chitsanzo chodziyimira chokha kwa okonda ma sheng amphamvu.
Chikhalidwe “chachifumu”: Chifukwa cha kukhuthala ndi mphamvu ya madzi ake, Lao Banzhang nthawi zambiri amatchedwa mmodzi wa “mafumu” a pu’er.
Udindo m’masakanizo: Masamba a Bulang odzaza amayamikiridwa kale ndi opanga tiyi a Menghai monga “mafupa” owonjezera kapangidwe ndi mphamvu m’makeke osakaniza.

Pomaliza: Bulang Sheng Cha ndi tiyi ya terroir, osati yachizindikiro chimodzi chokha: pansi pa dzina limodzi pali midzi ndi madera osiyana kwambiri, ophatikizidwa ndi cholembedwa chodziwika cha “Bulang” — kukhuthala, kuwawa kwamphamvu, kukoma kobwerera mwachangu, ndi mphamvu zamphamvu. Ndi chikhalidwe chenichenichi chomwe chapangitsa derali kukhala limodzi mwa mfundo zofunika za chikhalidwe chamakono cha pu’er yobiriwira ndipo nthawi yomweyo kukhala chinthu chotsatiridwa kwambiri pamsika.

Kuti mudziwe bwino gululi, ndizomveka kuyamba ndi masamba otsimikiziridwa moona mtima amtengo wapakati, kenaka pang’onopang’ono kupita kufanizitsa midzi yosiyana, ndipo makamaka kusamala ndi mayina otchuka monga Lao Banzhang, pomwe chiopsezo cha kulipira mopambanitsa ndi chonyenga chimakhala chachikulu. Popanga mosamala ndi kusunga kouma koyenera, Bulang amadziwonetsera yekha ngati tiyi yachichepere yowala komanso ngati wofunika kusungidwa kwa zaka zambiri.

the teas described here are available from teamotea