biānxiāo ∕ qiáoxiāo

Tiyi yakuda (黑茶, hēichá) ndiye gulu lokhalo lalikulu la tiyi yaku China lomwe mbiri yake sinatsimikizidwe ndi zipinda zolawa, koma ndi kayendetsedwe ka katundu ndi ndale za mayiko: njanji yomwe “njerwa” yoponderezedwa inkapitako ndi amene ankamwa. Nthambi ziwiri zazikulu zamalonda — yakumalire (边销, biānxiāo) ndi yaku China yakunja, ya “anthu okhala kunja” (侨销, qiáoxiāo) — zinakhazikitsa mawonekedwe, njira ya kuthirira ndi kutchuka kwa mitundu yambiri, ndipo Msewu Waukulu wa Tiyi — 万里茶道 (wànlǐ chádào) unawalumikiza ndi Ulaya.

Tiyi Yakuda Monga Katundu Wofunika Kwambiri

Kwa zaka mazana ambiri 黑茶 sanali chinthu chapamwamba, koma katundu wofunika kwambiri ku boma — 边销茶 (biānxiāo chá), “tiyi yogulitsa kumalire”. Njerwa zoponderezedwa zinkatumizidwa ku Tibet, Mongolia ndi Xinjiang, kumene zinkakhala gawo la chakudya chatsiku ndi tsiku cha nyama ndi mkaka cha anthu oyendayenda ndi a m’mapiri: m’madera omwe chakudya chamasamba chimasowa, tiyi yamphamvu, yosungidwa bwino inkagwira ntchito yofunika powonjezera pa chakudya chamafuta ndi mapuloteni.

Kuchokera ku chosowa chimenechi kunakula imodzi mwa machitidwe akale kwambiri osinthanitsa ku East Asia — 茶马互市 (chámǎ hùshì), “malonda a tiyi ndi akavalo”: ufumuwo unkasinthana ndi anthu a m’zigwa akavalo ankhondo ndi tiyi woponderezedwa. Mwanjira imeneyi, tiyi inakhala chida chothandizira asilikali ndi kukambirana, ndipo kupanga ndi kugawa kwake nthawi zambiri kunkayendetsedwa ndi boma (kuchokera pa lingaliro la 官茶, guānchá — “tiyi ya boma”). Mfundo imeneyi ikufotokoza chifukwa chake tiyi yakuda yakumalire pafupifupi nthawi zonse imaponderezedwa: njerwa imakhala yaying’ono, imatha kupirira mayendedwe ataliatali ponyamula katundu ndipo imasungidwa kwa zaka.

Nthambi Ziwiri za Kayendetsedwe

Mkati mwa tiyi yakuda munalidi nthambi ziwiri zosiyana kwambiri zogulitsira, ndipo ndi izi, osati malo okhawo, zomwe zimatsimikizira mawonekedwe a chinthu chomaliza.

边销 — nthambi yakumalire

Tiyi yakumalire inkayenda m’misewu yapamtunda ndi ngamira zonyamula katundu kupita kumalire akumpoto ndi kumadzulo kwa China. Dera lililonse lalikulu lopanga “linkatumikira” njira yake:

• 雅安 (Yǎ’ān), “tiyi yakumalire ya njira yakummwera” 南路边茶 (nánlù biānchá) — inkapita ku Tibet kudzera munjira ya Sichuan-Tibet ya 茶马古道 (chámǎ gǔdào), “Njira Yakale ya Tiyi ndi Akavalo”. Pano tiyi imagwirizana kwambiri ndi tiyi ya mafuta ya ku Tibet 酥油茶 (sūyóu chá), yomwe imafuna maziko ake akuda, osungidwa bwino, ndi olemera.
• 湖北青砖 (Húběi qīngzhuān), “njerwa yobiriwira” yokhala ndi chizindikiro cha 川字 (chuān zì) — inkatumizidwa ku Mongolia ndi kupitirira ku Russia kudzera pa 万里茶道. Chizindikiro cha “川” pa choponderezedwacho chinakhala chizindikiro chodziwika kwa ogula kunja kwa China.
• 陕西茯砖 (Shǎnxī fúzhuān), “njerwa ya fu” yochokera ku Shaanxi — inkapita kumpoto chakumadzulo ndi ku Central Asia kudzera munjira za Silk Road (丝绸之路, sīchóu zhī lù) monga tiyi ya boma 官茶. Uwu ndiye mtundu womwe unatchuka ndi “duwa lagolide” 金花.
• 安化 (Ānhuà) 千两 (qiānliǎng) ndi 黑砖 (hēizhuān) — tiyi yakuda ya ku Hunan, yotumizidwa ku Xinjiang ndi kumpoto chakumadzulo. “Chipilala” chotchuka 千两茶 — ndi mpukutu wopanikizidwa kwambiri mu chotchinga cholukidwa, mawonekedwe ena, obadwa chifukwa cha zofunikira za mayendedwe akutali.

侨销 — nthambi ya anthu okhala kunja

Nthambi yachiwiri sinkatumikira anthu akumalire, koma a China okhala kunja (华侨, huáqiáo) ku Southeast Asia, komanso Hong Kong ndi Macau. Misewu pano ndi yapanyanja, ndipo zokonda zinali zosiyana: chinkayamikiridwa kuthekera kofewa, “kosungidwa m’nyumba yosungiramo katundu”, kosungidwa, kobadwa chifukwa cha nyengo yotentha ya kutenta ndi kusungidwa kwautali.

• 六堡 (liùbǎo) yochokera ku Guangxi inkatumizidwa ku Southeast Asia, makamaka ku Malaysia, kumene amamwa ogwira ntchito m’migodi ya malata (锡矿工人, xīkuàng gōngrén). Ku Hong Kong ndi Macau kunakhazikitsidwa chikhalidwe cha “liu bao wakale” wosungidwa — 陈六堡 (chén liùbǎo).
• 安茶 (ānchá) yochokera ku Anhui inkapita kudzera ku Guangdong kupita ku Hong Kong ndi kenako ku Southeast Asia, kumene inapeza mbiri yokhazikika ya tiyi yokhala ndi “kununkhira kwachipatala” — 药香 (yàoxiāng).

Kugwirizana Pakati pa Njira ndi Mawonekedwe

Pali mgwirizano wachindunji pakati pa nthambi yogulitsira ndi mawonekedwe enieni a tiyi. Tiyi yakumalire imakonda kuponderezedwa kwambiri — njerwa (砖, zhuān): imapangidwira kunyamulidwa ponyamula katundu, kusungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali ndi kuphika. Tiyi ya anthu okhala kunja nthawi zambiri inkayikidwa m’madengu ndi mabokosi olukidwa (箩 / 篮, luó / lán) ndipo inakula mtengo wake chifukwa cha kusungidwa mu nyengo yachinyezi ya m’mphepete mwa nyanja. M’menemu munabuka “malingaliro awiri a kukoma”: okhwima, olemera, “a oyendayenda” pa tiyi yakumalire ndi ofewa, a nthaka-mitengo, “osungidwa m’nyumba yosungiramo katundu” pa ya anthu okhala kunja.

Msewu Waukulu wa Tiyi 万里茶道

Malo apadera ali ndi 万里茶道 — “Msewu wa Tiyi wamtali wa li makumi ikwi”. M’zaka za zana la 18 ndi 19, unalumikiza zigawo zopanga tiyi za Fujian, Hubei ndi Hunan ndi Russia ndi Ulaya. Ngamira zinkayenda kumpoto kudutsa China kupita kumzinda wamalonda wakumalire wa Kyakhta (恰克图, Qiàkètú) — malo ofunika kwambiri amalonda a tiyi pakati pa Russia ndi China, — kumene tiyi inkafalikira ku Russia konse ndi kupitirira ku Ulaya.

Zomwe zinayendetsa njirayi zinali amalonda a Shanxi — 晋商 (jìnshāng), omwe adapanga maukonde akugula, kupondereza ndi kuyendetsa. Ndi ntchito zawo zomwe zinasandutsa “njerwa yobiriwira” ya ku Hubei kukhala katundu wogulitsidwa kunja kwa anthu ambiri wa njira yakumpoto ndikulumikiza mapiri a mkati mwa tiyi ndi malonda apadziko lonse. Mwanjira imeneyi, mfundo yakumalire 边销 inakula kukhala yapadziko lonse: 万里茶道 inakhala mlatho pakati pa tiyi yakuda yaku China ndi msika wapadziko lonse.

Nkhani Yamakono

Lero nthambi zonse ziwiri zakale zikukhalabe ndi moyo mwanjira yatsopano. Tiyi yakumalire ikupangidwabe kuti igwiritsidwe ntchito m’madera achikhalidwe, koma nthawi yomweyo gawo lamkati la “tiyi yakuda yathanzi” labuka, pamene kusungidwa ndi “duwa lagolide” 金花 zikuyamikiridwa. Mitundu ya anthu okhala kunja — liu bao, an cha — kuchokera pakhala chakumwa chatsiku ndi tsiku cha ogwira ntchito yasanduka chinthu chosonkhanitsidwa ndi kulawa mozama, ndi chidwi cha zaka, momwe amasungira ndi komwe amachokera.

Momwe Mungasiyanitsire Nthambi

Kuti mumvetse kuti tiyi yakuda inayake ndi ya chikhalidwe chanji, ndizothandiza kukumbukira mfundo zingapo zotsogolera:

• Mawonekedwe. Njerwa yolimba kapena “chipilala” (砖, 千两) pafupifupi nthawi zonse imasonyeza chikhalidwe chakumalire, cha ngamira; dengu kapena bokosi lolukidwa (箩, 篮) — cha anthu okhala kunja, cha panyanja.
• Njira ndi dera. Sichuan (雅安) ndi Tibet, Hubei ndi Mongolia/Russia, Shaanxi ndi kumpoto chakumadzulo, Hunan (安化) ndi Xinjiang — ndi magulu akumalire. Guangxi (六堡) ndi Malaysia/Hong Kong, Anhui (安茶) ndi Guangdong/Southeast Asia — ndi a anthu okhala kunja.
• Mbiri yakukoma. Maziko okhwima, olemera, “amphamvu”, opangidwira kuphika ndi kusakaniza ndi mkaka ndi mafuta, — ndi chizindikiro cha ntchito yakumalire. Kuthekera kofewa, kwa nthaka-mitengo, kosungidwa ndi kamvekedwe ka “chipatala” (药香) — ndi chizindikiro cha kusungidwa kwa anthu okhala kunja.
• Kuyika chizindikiro ndi mbiri. Chizindikiro cha 川字 pa njerwa ya ku Hubei, lingaliro la 陈六堡 kwa liu bao wosungidwa, “duwa lagolide” 金花 pa njerwa ya fu — ndi zizindikiro zodziwika za mbiri ya mizere inayake.

Kumvetsetsa izi geography ziwiri — yakumalire ndi ya anthu okhala kunja — kumapereka chinsinsi cha gulu lonse la 黑茶: mawonekedwe, kuchuluka kwa kuponderezedwa, mtundu wa kuthirira ndi ngakhale kukoma kofunidwa kwa mtundu uliwonse panthawi ina zinali yankho ku funso losavuta — kuti tiyiyi imayenera kufika kuti ndi njira yanji.